Ambitious Brew: The Story of American Beer (52 page)

[>]
“wore Levis to class”: Lew Bryson, “Fritz Maytag,”
Malt Advocate
9, no. 3 (July 2000). Unpaginated copy provided to the author by Bryson.

[>]
“I would no more”: Fritz Maytag, interview by Maureen Ogle, tape recording, April 20, 2005. Hereafter cited as Maytag interview.

[>]
“I wish I had”: Ibid.

[>]
“No, no”: Bryson, “Fritz Maytag.”

[>]
“Ja, I know”: Maytag interview.

[>]
“bible”: Ibid.

[>]
“very, very quiet”: Bill Leinenkugel, interview by Maureen Ogle, April 22, 2005. Hereafter cited as Bill Leinenkugel interview.

[>]
“listened like mad”: Maytag interview.

[>]
“everything from enzymes”: Ibid.

[>]
“Well, try five thousand”: Dick Yuengling, Jr., interview by Maureen Ogle, May 10,2005.

[>]
“cash surpluses”: “Who Drinks? The Brewer’s Dilemma,”
Newsweek
64 (August 24, 1963): 67.

[>]
“mock-Bavarian”: Ibid.

[>]
“smoke a pipe”: Maytag interview.

[>]
“exceptional respect”: Curtis Hartman, “The Alchemist of Anchor Steam,”
Inc.
5, no. 1 (January 1983): 36.

[>]
“I have tried them all”: Mike Royko, “Advertising vs. Flavor,”
Chicago Daily News,
May 22, 1973, p. 3.

[>]
“Go to hell”: Mike Royko, “Big Taste Test is Brewing,”
Chicago Daily News,
July 6, 1973, p. 3.

[>]
“is proud about finding”: Michael F. Jacobson, quoted at
http://www.activistcash.com/biography.cfm/bid/1284
.

[>]
“slick, multi-million dollar”: Michael F. Jacobson and Joel Anderson,
Chemical Additives in Booze
(Washington, D.C.: Center for Science in the Public Interest, 1972), 1.

[>]
“At least with a horse”: Mike Royko, “The Lowdown on U.S. Beer,”
Chicago Daily News,
February 28, 1974, p. 3.

[>]
“a realm of intimate”: “Purpose,”
Whole Earth Catalog Access to Tools
([Menlo Park, CA]: Portola Institute, Fall 1969), unpaginated title page.

[>]
“first-ever”: Nathaniel Benchley, “Day Two: Cooling Off Period,”
Esquire
82 (July 1974): 86.

[>]
“Bill,”: Bill Leinenkugel interview.

[>]
“Some people”: Linda Hales, “Increased success seems to be brewing for Leinenkugel,”
Chicago Tribune,
November 14, 1977, p. 6:12.

[>]
“everything was laid”: Harry Hurt III, “Muscling In On Texas Beer,”
Texas Monthly
4 (March 1976): 177

[>]
“Cuero turkey trot”: Ibid., 179.

[>]
“must be handled”: John Porter,
All About Beer
(Garden City, NY: Doubleday & Co., 1975), 43.

[>]
“For many connoisseurs”: “The Beer That Won the West,”
Time
103 (February 11, 1974): 73.

[>]
“Pleasure-loving parasites”: Hurt, “Muscling In on Texas Beer,” 75.

[>]
“[N]ow that growing your own”: “Beer—Brew It Yourself,”
Great Speckled Bird
(May 17, 1971): 22. This article appeared in multiple publications thanks to the Underground Press Syndicate, the hippies’ version of the Associated Press.

[>]
“leave the beer-making”: “Treasury Warns Home-Brewers,”
Washington Post,
July 27, 1973, p. A3.

[>]
“this interpretation”: Byron Burch,
Quality Brewing: A Guidebook for the Home Production of Fine Beers
(Richmond, CA: Joby Books, 1977), 2.

[>]
“Most of us”: Mark Jones, “A Fine Froth For Those Who Brew Their Own Beer,”
Washington Post,
July 2, 1978, p. H5.

[>]
“everybody”: Raymond Mungo,
Cosmic Profit: How To Make Money Without Doing Time
(Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 1980), 90.

[>]
“expanded by leaps”: Charlie Papazian, interview by Maureen Ogle, April 27, 2005. Hereafter cited as Papazian interview.

[>]
“an Olympic-class beer drinker”: Quoted in Richard Kluger,
Ashes To Ashes: America’s Hundred-Year Cigarette War, the Public Health, and the Unabashed Triumph of Philip Morris
(New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1996), 403.

[>]
“country club”: John Gurda,
Miller Time: A History of Miller Brewing 1855–2005
([Milwaukee, WI]: Miller Brewing Company, 2005), 148.

[>]
“[a]fter all”: Thomas O’Hanlon, “August Busch Brews Up a New Spirit in St. Louis,”
Fortune
99 (January 15, 1979): 93.

[>]
“convincing beer-drinking personalities”: “How Miller Won a Market Slot for Lite beer,”
Business Week,
October 13, 1975, p. 118.

[>]
“easy-opening”: Gurda,
Miller Time,
caption on p. 152.

[>]
“so tough”: “The Light Beer Game,”
Forbes
117 (January 15, 1976): 31.

[>]
“I’ve been in this business”: “How Miller Won a Market Slot,” 116.

[>]
“The whole light beer thing”: “Giving the Light a Bit of Sight,”
St. Louis Post-Dispatch,
August 12, 1979, 1F.

[>]
“Drink Joe’s Beer,”: Ibid.

[>]
“I could cut production”: “A Struggle to Stay First in Brewing,”
Business Week,
March 24, 1973, p. 46.

[>]
“You can be sure”: Ibid., 49.

[>]
“Tell Miller”: “Turmoil Among Brewers: Miller’s Fast Growth Upsets the Beer Industry,”
Business Week,
November 8, 1976, p. 58.

[>]
“This light stuff”: “Beer: Let There Be Light,”
Newsweek
89 (June 6, 1977): 68.

[>]
“We didn’t really”: Gail Compton, “St. Louis Enters Great Light Beer Competition,”
Milwaukee Journal,
August 3, 1977; Mercantile and Manufacturing file, Missouri Historical Society.

[>]
“It’s an entirely organic”: Ibid.

[>]
“non-natural additives”: Eliot Marshall, “Frothing and Foaming,”
New Republic
179 (July 8 & 15, 1978): 19.

[>]
“We find it incredulous”: “Löwenbräu Promotion Under Investigation By Trade Commission,”
Washington Post,
July 23, 1978, p. A7.

[>]
“Miller people”: Senate Committee on the Judiciary.
Mergers and Industrial Concentration: Hearings Before the Subcommittee on Antitrust and Monopoly.
95th Cong., 2d sess., 1978, p. 67.

[>]
“We are the company”: “Struggle to Stay First,” 45.

[>]
“[T]hat board”: Jacques Neher, “What Went Wrong,”
Advertising Age
52, no. 16 (April 13, 1981): 64.

[>]
“accelerated-batch”: “Who Rules the Foam?,”
Forbes
110 (December 15, 1972): 36.

[>]
“When we want you”: Neher, “What Went Wrong,” 64.

[>]
“flat as apple cider”: Jaques Neher, “Schlitz Lost At Sea,”
Advertising Age
52, no. 17 (April 20, 1981): 49.

[>]
“Here were three guys”: Ibid., 52.

[>]
“very smart”: Michael Lewis, interview by Maureen Ogle, May 18, 2005.

[>]
“acted like he was from Mars”: Jack McAuliffe, interview by Maureen Ogle, February 10, 2004.

[>]
“with the approximate velocity”: Douglas Bartholomew, “New Albion,”
American Spectator
14, no. 7 (July 1981): 24.

[>]
“sea captain”: Nancy Vineyard, interview by Maureen Ogle, June 6, 2005.

[>]
“If you make”: William Ristow and Michael E. Miller, “Brewing ‘Real Ale’ Is a Yeasty Business,”
Washington Post,
July 9,1978, p. G10.

[>]
“Get out”: Don Barkley, interview by Maureen Ogle, May 8, 2005. Hereafter cited as Barkley interview.

[>]
“You have to be”: Ristow and Miller, “Brewing ‘Real Ale,’ ” G10.

[>]
“We knew we were”: Barkley interview.

[>]
“what button to push”: Ibid.

[>]
“lived like a spider”: John R. McAuliffe, “Brewing On A Small Scale,”
Amateur Brewer
(Winter 1986): 31.

[>]
“We knew”: Barkley interview.

CHAPTER EIGHT

Something Old, Something New

[>]
“came down out of the hills”: Ken Grossman, interview by Maureen Ogle, April 7, 2005.

[>]
“hoppy”: Ibid.

[>]
“We’ll build it to here”: Ibid.

[>]
“guru”: Ibid.

[>]
“jumpfedl off the page”: Nancy Vineyard, interview by Maureen Ogle, June (5, 2005.

[>]
“[h]omebrewing and brewing”: Quoted in Stuart Harris, “Sierra Nevada Brewery,”
Zymurgy
4, no. 3 (Fall 1981): 19.

[>]
“It’s the few”: Ibid.

[>]
“I don’t want to knock”: Ibid.

[>]
“tremendous migration”: Don Barkley, interview by Maureen Ogle, May 8, 2005.

[>]
“golden rolling hills”: “The Redtail Hawk,” music and lyrics by George Schroder, 1975.

[>]
“schlepping bags”: Jim Koch, interview by Maureen Ogle, April 6, 2005.

[>]
“vocational school”: Ibid.

[>]
“When you think”: Ibid.

[>]
“marketing smoke and mirrors”: Ibid.

[>]
“didn’t feel the need”: Ibid.

[>]
“Sales of 5,000 barrels”: Prospectus quoted in Robert A. Mamis, “Market Maker,”
Inc.
(December 1995), online edition at Expanded Academic ASAP.

[>]
“never sold anything”: James Koch, “Portrait of the CEO as Salesman,”
Inc. Magazine
(March 1988); online edition at Expanded Academic ASAP.

[>]
“I think contract brewers”: Quoted in Daniel Bradford, “Contract Brewing,”
New Brewer
3, no. 6 (November-December 1986): 29.

[>]
“more interested”: Suzanne Alexander, “Is a Beer Local If It’s Produced Not So Locally?,”
Wall Street Journal,
July 21, 1989, p. B1.

[>]
“I’m dripping wet”: Ibid., B2.

[>]
“If a contract brewer”: Quoted in Bradford, “Contract Brewing,” 29.

[>]
“True Beer”: Vince Cottone,
Good Beer Guide: Breweries and Pubs of the Pacific Northwest, British Columbia, Washington and Oregon
(Seattle, WA: Homestead Book Company, 1986), 10.

[>]
“to cheapen”: Ibid., 11.

[>]
“It’s not a new kind”: Ibid., 10.

[>]
“True micros”: Quoted in Terri Finnegan, “Microbrewing Comes of Age,”
Modern Brewery Age,
magazine section 40, no. 19 (May 8, 1989): 12.

[>]
“technologically advanced”: Peter Krebs,
Redhook: Beer Pioneer
(New York: Four Walls Eight Windows, 1998), 145.

[>]
“handcrafted”: Quoted in ibid., 146.

[>]
“We need contract brewers”: Fred Eckhardt, “The Budweiser Menace,”
All About Beer
(March 1997); online at
http://www.allaboutbeer.com/columns/fred4.html.

[>]
“pasteurized carbonated malt”: Fred Eckhardt, “A Treatise on Lager Beers,” (Portland, OR: Hobby Winemaker, 1970), 2 and [ii].

[>]
“uncomfortable”: Charlie Papazian, interview by Maureen Ogle, April 27, 2005.

[>]
“extension of homebrewing”: Charlie Papazian, “How Many Apples Does It Take to Make a Pie?,”
Zymurgy
5, no. 4 (Winter 1982): 2.

[>]
“I didn’t do this”: Edward A. Gargan, “Microbrewers Set the Pace, and Draw the Heat,”
New York Times,
November 20, 1994, p. F12.

[>]
“responsible drinking”: Dwight B. Heath, “The New Temperance Movement: Through the Looking-Glass,”
Drugs and Society
3 (1989): 153.

[>]
“stabilize per capita”: Ibid., 154.

[>]
“It’s not easy”: Frank Rose, “If It Feels Good, It Must Be Bad,”
Fortune
124 (October 21, 1991): 92.

[>]
“The sixties generation”: “Water, Water Everywhere,”
Time
125, no. 20 (May 20, 1985): 70.