Making Artisan Cheese

MAKING artisan CHEESE

50 FINE CHEESES THAT YOU CAN MAKE
IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN

TIM SMITH

BEVERLY MASSACHUSETTS

Q U A R R Y
B O O K S

To my patient wife Sharon, my joyful
daughter Raya, and all of the friends and
family who gave me support and
encouragement throughout this project.

A special thanks goes out to my
photographer, Allan Penn—a man who
possesses a keen eye and a wicked
sense of humor.

CONTENTS

Introduction

PART 1 HOW TRADITION INFLUENCES MODERN CHEESE

CHAPTER ONE A Brief History of Cheese Making

Ancient Origins

The Middle Ages

Colonization

The Industrial Revolution

The Rebirth of Artisan Cheese

CHAPTER TWO Cheese-Making Basics

Composition of Milk

Types of Animal Milk and Their Influence on Cheese

How Grazing, Season, and Geography Affect Milk

Forms of Milk

Cultures and Rennet: The Other Pieces of the Puzzle

Molds and External Bacteria

Other Ingredients

Salt

Ripening

PART 2 MAKING CHEESE

CHAPTER THREE Basic Cheese Making: Getting Started

A Few Words on Sanitation

Techniques for Making Fresh, Soft Cheeses

Basic Cheese Recipes

Paneer

Fresh Chèvre

Quark

Yogurt

Yogurt Cheese

Cream Cheese

Lemon Cheese

Mascarpone

Crème Fraîche

Cottage Cheese

CHAPTER FOUR Intermediate Cheese Making

Ingredients

Starter Cultures: Mother Cultures and Direct-Set

Cultures

Equipment

Intermediate Cheese-Making Techniques

Intermediate Cheese Recipes

Monterey Jack

Cotswold

Cantal

Halloumi

Pyrenees

Feta

Caerphilly

Cheddar

Cloth-Banded Cheddar

Washed-Curd Cheeses

Colby

Gouda

Edam

Leiden

Cabra al Vino

Cooked Cheeses

Emmental

Gruyère

Parmesan

Romano

Bra

Pasta Filata

Mozzarella

Provolone

Whey Cheeses

Ricotta

Gjetost and Myseost

CHAPTER FIVE Advanced Cheese Making: The Mold- and Bacteria-Ripened Cheeses

Techniques

Equipment Needed

Advanced Recipes

White Stilton

White Stilton with Blueberries

White Stilton with Candied Ginger

Blue Stilton

Blue Gouda

Camembert

Fromage Fort

Neufchâtel

Crottin