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Authors: Kir Jensen

Sugar Cube (6 page)

BOOK: Sugar Cube
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Breakfast is one of my favorite meals of the day, and I’m fortunate to live in a city that feels the same way. We love our brunch in Portland. Sometimes, though, we crave leisurely weekends when we can lounge around in our pj’s rather than wait in long lines. Whether you’re brunching at home or at a friend’s, here are some of my favorite recipes that are definitely worth waking up for.

Aric-A-Strata

Aric-A-Strata
WITH MUSHROOMS, TOMATOES, AND FRESH DILL

I couldn’t help naming this dish after an ex-boyfriend who helped me put my first cart together. Like this strata, he could make something awesome out of practically nothing. Take some eggs, cream, and stale bread, plus any odds and ends of cheese and vegetables you have lying around, and turn them into cheesy, savory, oven-baked decadence. It’s seriously rich—just a little 8-inch-square dish will feed a crowd. And it’s even better if you assemble it the night before—perfect for when you know you’ll be too tired or hungover to cook in the morning.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS

ingredients
  • 2 large eggs
  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 2
    1
    /
    2
    cups heavy cream
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1
    /
    2
    teaspoon paprika
  • 1
    /
    4
    teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1
    /
    4
    cup chopped fresh dill or other fresh herbs
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1
    1
    /
    2
    teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 5 portobello mushrooms (about 1 pound), stemmed and cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
  • 1
    /
    4
    to
    1
    /
    2
    loaf (8 to 9 ounces) day-old brioche or sourdough bread, cut into
    1
    /
    2
    -inch-thick slices and each torn or cut into 3-inch pieces
  • 1
    /
    2
    cup crumbled goat cheese
  • 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
instructions
  • GENEROUSLY BUTTER
    the bottom and sides of an 8-by-8-inch glass baking dish. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, cream,
    1
    /
    2
    teaspoon salt,
    1
    /
    4
    teaspoon pepper, paprika, nutmeg, and dill.
  • PUT A LARGE SAUTÉ PAN
    over medium-high heat. When hot, add the olive oil and heat until shimmering. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until the mushrooms are tender and their juices have evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.
  • POUR ABOUT
    1
    /
    2
    CUP
    of the egg mixture into the prepared baking dish. Cover the bottom of the baking dish with a layer of bread, pressing it into the mixture. Sprinkle with half of the goat cheese, then one-third of the sautéed mushrooms, one-third of the tomatoes, and
    1
    /
    2
    cup of the Cheddar cheese. Pour one-third of the egg mixture on top and press to help saturate all the ingredients. Repeat the layering, starting with another layer of bread, the remaining goat cheese, half of the mushrooms, half of the tomatoes, and
    1
    /
    2
    cup of the Cheddar cheese. Pour half of the remaining egg mixture over the top and press. Add a final layer of bread and the remaining egg mixture, pressing to saturate. Cover with the remaining vegetables and the remaining 1 cup Cheddar cheese. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Cover the strata tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. This will give it an extra-luxurious texture. But if you’re in a pinch and need to bake it right away, it will still be a delight. Just try to wait 30 minutes to give the bread a chance to soak up the moisture before baking.
  • WHEN READY TO BAKE
    , preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the dish on the middle rack of the oven (with a sheet pan below to catch the drips) and bake, uncovered, until puffed and the custard is set in the center, about 1 hour. (If it’s getting too dark too soon, tent it with foil, making sure the foil doesn’t touch the cheese.) Let cool for at least 30 minutes to allow the bread to reabsorb the juices. Cut into six pieces and serve.

VARIATION:

Sweet Strata
  • FOLLOW THE RECIPE ABOVE
    , adding
    1
    /
    2
    to
    3
    /
    4
    cup sugar (depending on how sweet you want it to be), the grated zest of 1 tangerine or orange, and 2 teaspoons vanilla extract (or the seeds scraped from
    1
    /
    2
    vanilla bean) to the egg mixture. Of course leave out the herbs, pepper, paprika, cheese, and vegetables. Instead use 2 cups berries or sliced fruit (if using apples, sauté them in butter first). Sprinkle the top with sugar and bake as directed.

Buy Local

I’ve found that locally grown = super fresh and that super fresh = better flavor. That’s why this strata is the perfect excuse to go crazy at the farmers’ market. If nothing else, spring for the vine-ripened tomatoes and farm-fresh eggs. The eggs will be much fresher than anything at the grocery store, and the yolks will be larger, brighter, and richer in flavor. But there’s another benefit to buying local: You’re helping to sustain a livable community.

TIPS


Contrary to popular belief, the bread for a strata or bread pudding doesn’t have to be cardboard dry. It
can
be, but it doesn’t
have
to be, so don’t sweat it if you need to buy fresh bread for this. Just let it dry out in a 250°F oven for a few minutes to eliminate some moisture so that it can soak up more of the custard.


This is a really flexible recipe, so you might add a bit more vegetables or bread than I do, or you might use a slightly smaller or larger pan. If, in the process, you end up with extra custard, save it to make a little French toast or a Monte Cristo sandwich the next day.


Feel free to stray from this recipe and use what you have available. The strata can be made with most types of firm cheese—Gruyère and fontina are awesome choices—and any veggies you have handy—just give them a quick sauté or roast first. Think sautéed spinach, caramelized onions, or chopped roasted veggies like fingerling potatoes. And, of course, it wouldn’t be breakfast without pork, so add a handful of chopped prosciutto, speck, ham, or cooked bacon, if you have it.


If you have any leftover strata, you can slice it and reheat it in a sauté pan over medium-low heat with a little olive oil. Just brown it on both sides until warmed through.

Jammin’ on the One
(BISCUITS ‘N’ JAM)

BOOK: Sugar Cube
7.12Mb size Format: txt, pdf, ePub
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