The Little Paris Bookshop (30 page)

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This is the Provençal soup that brings the warmth back into Samy’s limbs and can raise anyone’s spirits. However, it is not the best option for a romantic dinner; read on to find out why.
 

Almost everyone in Provence has his or her own pistou recipe. The staple ingredients are beans (green, white or red), courgettes, tomatoes, basil and garlic, but everyone gives the soup a particular twist with fresh seasonal vegetables from the garden or the market, such as pumpkin, turnip and celery. Some people like to cook pistou as you would minestrone, whereas others prefer to use small, fat noodles – gobetti, small macaroni or rigate. Near Nice they like to add a little bacon. The dish’s magic ingredient, though, is the pistou (which means ‘pounded’ in Provençal), a tangy green sauce similar to Italian pesto, but without the pine nuts.
 

Serves 4
 

 

INGREDIENTS

 

For the Vegetable Soup

200 grams carrots

250 grams courgettes

1 leek (or fresh spring onions)

500 grams potatoes

1 onion

200 grams green beans

4 strong-tasting, sweet tomatoes (or half a tin of peeled tomatoes) Tomato purée to taste

Olive oil

3–4 sprigs each of thyme, winter savoury and rosemary

Salt

1 tin (250 grams) white Italian beans

Pepper

 

For the Paste

2–3 cloves of garlic

½ teaspoon sea salt

3–4 bunches of fresh basil

25 grams fresh Parmesan (or Pecorino, according to taste), plus more for a garnish (optional)

5 tablespoons finest mild olive oil

 

PREPARATION

1.  

To make the vegetable soup:
Wash and cut the carrots, courgettes, leek, potatoes, onion and green beans into pieces, rounds or cubes. If using tomatoes, soak the tomatoes in hot water, peel them and dice (or if you prefer, use a tin of good-quality tomatoes). Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the vegetables, herbs and tomato purée (if using) and stir continuously for 10 minutes on a gentle heat. Season with salt to taste.

2.  

Rinse the beans in cold water and pat dry with paper towels, then add them to the pot with the other vegetables. Pour in 1½–2 litres of water, cover and leave to simmer for 30–45 minutes (or until the white beans are soft). Season with salt and pepper.

3.  

To make the paste:
Peel and chop the garlic and blend to a smooth paste. In a medium bowl, mix the garlic paste with the salt, basil leaves and Parmesan. Add the olive oil, and mix well.

4.  

Spoon the
pistou
into four soup bowls. Pour in the hot vegetable soup, and serve. Some people prefer to stir the paste into the soup afterwards. Garnish with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese, if desired.

The success of a lamb dish depends largely on the quality of the meat and the marinade. Should your butcher not prepare marinades, you’ll find below a couple of ideas for making a delicious marinade of your own. The meat should be left to marinate overnight.
 

Serves 2 To 3
 

 

INGREDIENTS

 

For the Marinade

2–3 cloves of garlic

A little tomato juice

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon dried thyme

2–3 tablespoons runny honey

Pepper

Good-quality olive oil (flavoured with rosemary, garlic, lavender or lemon, say!)

Optional:
Dijon mustard, sweet chilli, sweet sherry, balsamic vinegar or a little red wine. Whatever takes your fancy!

 

For the Lamb Cutlets

1 pound lamb cutlets

4 tablespoons olive oil

 

For the Garlic Flan

Olive oil

100 grams garlic

115 millilitres milk or cream

Salt and pepper

3 eggs, beaten

Nutmeg

 

PREPARATION

1.  

To make the marinade:
Peel the garlic, chop finely and mix with the tomato juice, herbs, honey, pepper, olive oil and the optional ingredients, if desired. Pour the marinade into a 3-litre freezer bag with the lamb cutlets. Seal the bag, place in a bowl in the refrigerator and leave to marinate for a few hours or overnight.

2.  

To prepare the lamb cutlets:
Heat the oil in a griddle on high heat. Add the cutlets and cook them one minute per side. Take the pan off the heat and set aside for 5 minutes to cool. The cutlets should be pink inside. (In case you’re interested, the author loves to fry them on a raclette grill – perfection!)

3.  

To make the garlic flan:
In a small pot over low heat, heat the oil. Add the freshly peeled cloves of garlic (see Note) and the milk and heat until they are soft. Press through a sieve and season with salt and pepper. Add the beaten eggs and a pinch of nutmeg to taste.

Pour the mixture into a well-greased soufflé mould, and thicken for 20 minutes in a bain-marie. Leave to cool for 10 minutes, and turn out onto a plate.

4.  

Serve with potatoes brushed with olive oil, oven-fried and sprinkled with rosemary and sea salt.

 

Note: If you choose dried garlic, it is advisable to blanche it in boiling water for 5 minutes, then press it with a fork before adding it to the milk.

The lavender ice cream on sale in the ice-cream shops of Roussillon is indeed the intense purple colour of the flowers; it is often dyed with a few drops of blueberry juice. Locally made blueberry-free ice cream is white with purple speckles.
 

4 servings
 

 

INGREDIENTS

1–2 teaspoons dried lavender or 2–4 teaspoons lavender flowers (freshly picked or organic), plus lavender flowers for garnish

200 grams sugar

120 millilitres fresh milk

8 egg yolks (organic, if possible)

225 millilitres cream (yoghurt, if you prefer it to be lighter)

1 handful of blueberries for colouring (optional)

 

PREPARATION

1.  

In a small bowl, blend the lavender with the sugar, and push through a sieve until you have a fine powder. Dissolve the lavender powder in the milk until the crystals no longer ‘crunch’ (you may need to heat the mixture slightly, but avoid boiling). In a separate bowl, beat together the egg yolks and cream (or yoghurt) until smooth. Stir the lavender milk into the egg cream and mix thoroughly. Purée the blueberries and add them to colour the mixture, if desired.

2.  

Place the mixture in an ice-cream maker, or leave to set in a freezer compartment, stirring occasionally.

3.  

Garnish with lavender flowers for decoration.

 

 

Alternative Recipe for
 

LAVENDER ICE CREAM WITH LAVENDER SYRUP OR LAVENDER HONEY
 

 

 

 

4 servings
 

 

INGREDIENTS

5 tablespoons lavender syrup, plus more for garnish

450 millilitres Greek yoghurt

120 millilitres fresh milk

225 millilitres cream

1 handful of blueberries for colouring (optional)

Lavender honey or flowers, for garnish

 

PREPARATION

1.  

In a medium bowl, stir the lavender syrup into the yoghurt, add milk and cream, and stir until smooth.

2.  

Purée the blueberries and add them gradually to colour the mixture, if desired.

3.  

Place the mixture in an ice-cream maker or a freezer compartment. Garnish with syrup, flowers or lavender honey prior to serving.

These fourteen desserts all come from Provence, and it has been a tradition to eat them at Christmas for nearly a hundred years. They stand for the thirteen participants at the Last Supper (Jesus and the twelve Apostles), and are served after midnight Mass or at the end of le gros souper, a meal that consists of seven simple vegetarian dishes.

A typical selection for
lei tretze dessèrts
, as they are known in Provençal dialect, would be:

•  

Raisins (home dried);

•  

Dried figs (homegrown);

•  

The obligatory nuts: almonds, hazelnuts and walnuts;

•  

Dates, to represent the regions where Christ lived and died;

•  

Four different types of fresh fruit, which may include plums (traditionally from Brignoles), winter pears, melons, apples, oranges, grapes and tangerines;

•  

Candied fruits;

•  

Light and dark Turkish honey, white and black nougat. The light variety is made from hazelnuts, pine nuts and pistachios, and symbolises goodness and purity; the dark or black nougat stands for evil and impurity;

•  

Fougasse (or fouace), a flat cake made with olive oil (which must be broken, not cut!);

•  

Oreillettes: light, thin waffles flavoured with lemon zest;

•  

Roulés: cinnamon-flavoured brioche rolls;

•  

Ratafia, a mixture of juice and brandy, or cartagène, a sweet fortified wine;

•  

Calissons d’Aix: sweets similar to marzipan made from almond paste and candied melon;

•  

Biscotins;

•  

Marinated goat’s cheese.

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