1,000 Indian Recipes (324 page)

3.
Transfer to a small tray and, with a spatula, spread into a smooth layer, about
³
⁄
₄
-inch thick. Cover with plastic wrap and cool in the refrigerator about 1 hour. Cut into 1
¹
⁄
₂
-inch or smaller cubes or rectangles and serve, preferably at room temperature.

Saffron Curdled Milk Patties

Kesari Sandesh

Makes 30 to 40 pieces

Similar to
pedhas
in shape and color, these rounds, called
sondesh
or
sandesh
, are a typical Bengali dessert. But instead of
khoa
(thickened milk solids)
, sondesh
is made with
chenna
, which, like
paneer
, comes from curdled milk, but it is softer and has a finer grain. (You can substitute
paneer
cheese for the
chenna
, but soften it first in a food processor.)

¹
⁄
₃
teaspoon saffron threads

4 cups whole milk

2 to 3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

¹
⁄
₂
pint heavy cream

³
⁄
₄
cup sugar

³
⁄
₄
cup instant nonfat dry milk

1.
In a small skillet over medium heat, dry-roast half the saffron, stirring and shaking the pan, until crisp and a few shades darker, about 1 minute. Grind in a mortar and pestle or with the back of a spoon.

2.
In a heavy saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and cool about 5 minutes. Then add the vinegar and stir lightly until the milk curdles. The curds should be very tiny (unlike the big curds of paneer cheese). Drain through a very fine-mesh strainer about 1 minute. Discard the whey, transfer the curds to a bowl, and mash them with a fork until fine. If the curds are large, process in the food processor until minced.

3.
In a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, boil together the cream and sugar until it bubbles vigorously, about 3 minutes. Mix in the curds and dry milk and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and pulls away from the sides of the pan, 7 to 10 minutes. Mix in the remaining saffron threads and the roasted saffron during the last 2 to 3 minutes of cooking.

4.
Let cool at room temperature about 1 hour. Shape the mixture into 30 to 40 (1-inch) balls. Then, with your thumb, press down in the center of each ball to flatten them and make a slight depression. Serve, preferably at room temperature.

Variation:
To make cardamom-flavored
sandesh
, do not add any saffron; instead, fill each depression with a scant pinch of thinly sliced pistachios and ground green cardamom seeds.

Bharti's Milk Cake

Bharti ka Palang-Todh

Makes 8 to 10 servings

My friend Bharti Dhalwala is the only person I know who actually makes her own milk cake. Most people buy it, because it seems complicated to make. I did too until Bharti showed me that it really is not very difficult.

Authentic milk cake is white on the outside and a rich, deep brown inside, and there is a real art to achieving this beautiful color contrast. The secret is to quickly cool the cake from the outside so it stays white, while making sure the inside remains hot enough for the sugar to caramelize, which gives the cake its dark brown, grainy interior.

It is necessary to buy raw milk for this recipe, as homogenized or pasteurized milk will not work. Raw milk is available in health food stores. The raw milk is boiled then simmered, so it is safe to eat.

¹
⁄
₂
gallon raw whole milk

1 pint heavy cream

³
⁄
₄
cup plain yogurt (any kind), whisked until smooth

1
¹
⁄
₄
cups sugar

1.
In a large saucepan, boil the milk and cream, over medium-high heat the first 2 to 3 minutes, then over medium heat until reduced by half, 15 to 20 minutes.

2.
Add the yogurt, which will cause the milk to curdle, reduce the heat to low, and cook, about 10 minutes. Increase the heat to medium and continue to cook until the whey from the curdled milk has almost evaporated, about 15 minutes. Add the sugar and cook, stirring, until the mixture starts to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 10 minutes.

3.
Meanwhile, lightly grease a 6- to 8-inch round container, making sure it has a secure and tight-fitting lid. Have ready a large pot with ice cold water and ice cubes. As soon as the cake mixture is done, transfer it in to the greased container and quickly secure the lid. Then, carefully, place the container in the ice cold water, which will instantly start to cool the cake from the outside. Make sure no moisture gets inside the cake. Allow the cake container to sit in its ice bath 30 to 45 minutes, and add more ice if needed.

4.
Carefully remove from the ice bath and bring to room temperature. Invert the cake onto a serving dish and serve as you would any cake.

Ricotta Cheese Cake

Ricotta Paneer ka Cake

Makes 8 to 10 servings

One of the reasons that true cakes will always be a Western concept to many Indians is because they use eggs, which a large number of observant Indian vegetarians don't eat. But they love the symbolism of cakes for birthdays, weddings, and anniversaries.

My Indian invention in America is this egg-less, cake-like dessert, which imitates the flavor of
rasgullas
(
paneer
cheese balls in syrup) that all Indians love.

2 tablespoons
Dessert Masala

2 pounds part-skim ricotta cheese

1 cup sugar, or to taste

¹
⁄
₂
cup coarsely chopped mixed raw almonds and pistachios

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon ground green cardamom seeds

1.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Prepare the dessert masala. Then, in a bowl, mix the ricotta cheese, all but 1 tablespoon sugar, and the almonds and pistachios. Transfer the mixture to a greased 11-inch pie dish or cake pan. Sprinkle the reserved sugar on the top.

2.
Bake until the edges are medium-brown and the center is firm and golden, 1 to 1
¹
⁄
₄
hours. The sugar on top will caramelize, lending a rich brown color to the cake. If the edges begin to brown too quickly before the cake is done, cover them lightly with a strip of aluminum foil. Remove the cake from the oven and set aside to cool.

3.
Run a knife along the insides of the pan to loosen the cake. Place a large plate over the pan, hold the edges together, and invert the cake. Then carefully invert it once again onto a serving platter to expose the caramelized top. Sprinkle with the cardamom seeds, pressing them lightly into the surface, then the dessert masala, and serve. This cake can be served chilled or at room temperature.

Paneer Cheese Specialty Desserts

White Paneer Cheese Balls in Fragrant Syrup

Rasgulla

Makes 25 to 30 pieces

Floating in a cardamom-flavored syrup, these light, spongy, white treats are a specialty from the northeastern state of Bengal and are one of India's most popular desserts. They are very easy to make at home, especially with a pressure cooker.

Typically served chilled, they make for a low-fat and low-sugar dessert—simply drain each
rasgulla
of all excess sugar syrup, and you'll have a dessert that is nothing but protein with a hint of sweet.

8 ounces (1 recipe)
Paneer Cheese
(or store-bought), coarsely crumbled, at room temperature

5
¹
⁄
₂
cups water

1
²
⁄
₃
cups sugar

8 green cardamom pods, crushed lightly to break the skin

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon coarsely ground green cardamom seeds

2 to 3 drops rose essence

1.
Prepare the paneer cheese in advance. Then, place the paneer cheese in a food processor and process until it's smooth and starts to gather into a soft and pliable dough (just before it forms a ball). Divide the dough equally into 25 to 30 portions and shape each into smooth, crack-free balls. This should be done between the palms of your clean hands, applying gentle pressure as you shape them. Cover with a piece of aluminum foil and set aside.

2.
Place 5 cups water, 1
¹
⁄
₂
cups sugar, 5 cardamom pods, and the ground cardamom seeds in a pressure cooker and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn off the heat and add half the cheese balls. Secure the lid of the pressure cooker, place it over high heat, and cook until the regulator indicates high pressure, then cook for about 1 more minute. Remove from the heat and allow the pot to depressurize on its own, 12 to 15 minutes. Carefully open the lid of the pressure cooker and let the rasgullas cool about 10 minutes. Do not stir. Transfer to a medium bowl, along with about
¹
⁄
₂
cup of the syrup in which they were cooked, and set aside.