1,000 Places to See in the U.S.A. & Canada Before You Die (108 page)

You can drive around the accessible parts of Kauai—it’s only about 30 miles across at its widest—in just a few hours, but the only way to take in the natural drama of the whole island is via helicopter. Blue Hawaiian has been the Cadillac of helicopter tour companies for over a decade, with an elite crew of pilots and a first-rate fleet including sleek Eco-Star copters—featuring an unrivaled viewing area, comfort, and quiet. The 50-minute flights go from Hanapepe Valley to Mana Waiapuna, also known as “Jurassic Park Falls,” then on to some of Kauai’s most beautiful sites: the Bali Hai Cliffs; the pristine blue waters of Hanalei Bay and the Princeville Resort area (see p. 943); Olokele Canyon; and Waimea Canyon, the dramatically, ruggedly beautiful “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” (see p. 947). From there, most of the flight follow the towering, deeply carved cliffs of the Na Pali Coast (see below), one of Hawaii’s most stunning landscapes. Weather permitting, you can even fly to the 5,148-foot Mount Wai’ale’ale—with an average yearly rainfall of over 460 inches, it’s one of the two wettest spots on earth—and descend into its crater, where waterfalls plunge thousands of feet down steep walls nearly a mile high.

Fly among the clouds to view the grandeur of Kauai.

B
LUE
H
AWAIIAN
H
ELICOPTERS
: Lihu’e Airport. Tel 800-745-2583 or 808-245-5800;
www.bluehawaiian.com
.
Cost:
$210 per person.
B
EST TIME
: Avoid Nov–Mar, the rainiest months.

Hiking Through Eden

Kauai, Hawaii

The Na Pali (“the cliffs”) Coast is the Hawaii of your dreams, 22 miles of vibrant green valleys with nearly vertical walls and thundering waterfalls plunging into the sea from cliffs as high as 4,000 feet. Hawaii’s last true
wilderness where no road will ever cross, it is protected as the Na Pali Coast State Park, whose 6,500 acres hug the northwest shore of Kauai between Ke’e Beach and Polihale State Park. You can view this magnificent piece of Eden by helicopter (see above) or boat, but the best way to experience the thickly jungled shore at the base of its craggy palisades is on foot.

Even fit, seasoned hikers find a challenge in the narrow, strenuous Kalalau Trail, an ancient 11-mile footpath that winds along imposing cliffs through the Hanakapi’ai, Hanakoa, and Kalalau valleys—a remote, spectacular region that’s home to long-plumed tropical birds, golden monarch butterflies, and many of Kauai’s rare and endangered plant species. The hike all the way to the end of the trail at Kalalau Beach is both gorgeous and grueling, so hikers are advised to spend two full days on the way in, stopping often to admire the view, swim, pick fruit, and revel in the experience. Note, though, that the sometimes precipitous heights aren’t for those who suffer from vertigo.

Na Pali Coast stretches 16 miles along the northwest side of Kauai.

The golden-red sands of Ke’e Beach, at the trailhead, lie at the foot of sheer volcanic cliffs and are a favorite of swimmers, snorkelers, divers, and kayakers. The 2-mile stretch of the Kalalau Trail from here is a popular, moderately difficult day hike that climbs from sea level to 400 feet in the steep first mile, then descends to sea level at Hanakapi’ai Beach, which has sand in summer, but just rocks when the winter waves roll in. The trail here is narrow and often so crowded that the hike takes up to 2 hours one-way. Bear in mind also that Hanakapi’ai is not a swimming beach—the undertow and rip currents are fierce, and there are no lifeguards. If you’ve got energy, you can continue along a 2-mile inland trail from the beach to Hanakapi’ai Falls, a 120-foot cascade.

On the other side of the wilderness from Ke’e is Polihale State Park, home to Hawaii’s biggest beach—17 miles long and as wide as three football fields. Located on the remote, extreme western end of Kauai (and lacking any kind of facilities), it’s an exceptionally beautiful spot, snuggled up at the base of the Na Pali cliffs and offering one of the best places on Kauai for watching the sunset. The park includes ancient Hawaiian
heiau
(temples) and burial sites, views of the neighboring islands of Ni’ihau and Lehua Rock, and the famed Barking Sands Beach, where your footsteps make a sound like squeaking snow.

W
HERE
: 36 miles northwest of Lihu’e.
Kauai State Park info:
Tel 808-274-3444;
www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp.kauai.html
.
H
OW
: Liko Kauai Cruises offers snorkeling and sightseeing trips, tel 808-338-0333;
www.likokauai.com
.
Cost:
$120 for 4-hour trip.
When:
no tours Sun.
B
EST TIMES
: Apr–Oct for weather.

Sunny Beaches, Hawaiian Gardens, and Moaning Lizards

Kauai, Hawaii

At the center of Kauai’s sunny southern coast is Po’ipu Beach Park, a legendary beauty spot famous for its gardens and glamorous resorts, as well as for its surfing, snorkeling, diving, and kayaking
. Technically, Po’ipu Park comprises two beaches naturally divided by Nukumoi Point, a kind of sandbar known as a tombolo. On one side, a rocky outcrop protects a sandy-bottom pool that’s perfect for children, and on the other side lies open ocean for swimmers, snorkelers, and surfers. Everyone loves this place, so expect a crowd—especially on weekends, when local families come and stay for hours to picnic on the green lawn fronting the beach.

West of the beach, in the Lawa’i Valley, are two world-class horticultural attractions run by the National Tropical Botanical Garden, which also operates Limahuli Garden on Kauai’s North Shore (see p. 944). The 252-acre McBryde Garden boasts the world’s largest ex situ collection of native Hawaiian plants, many of which
are rare and endangered, plus many specimens from elsewhere in the tropics. The Allerton Garden occupies more than 100 adjacent acres, where Hawaii’s Queen Emma lived in the 1860s; it includes the historic house, exquisite formal features, and a tropical fruit orchard planted as a victory garden. Nearby is Spouting Horn, a pair of blowholes in a lava outcrop. When swells steamroll into the south shore, one sprays like a geyser, while the other makes a loud moaning sound. According to legend, this coastline was once guarded by a giant female
mo’o,
or lizard, who ate anyone who dared come into her domain. A man named Liko who wanted to fish in the area threw a spear into her mouth, then escaped under the lava shelf and out one of the holes. The mo’o was trapped in the lava tube, and the sound of Spouting Horn is said to be her cries of hunger and pain.

For a luxury room, check into the 50-acre Grand Hyatt Kauai, a classically handsome resort with lavishly landscaped grounds, an open-air Anara spa, nearly four dozen tennis courts, and a championship golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. Of the resort’s numerous restaurants and cafés, Dondero’s is widely regarded as the best Italian restaurant on the island.

W
HERE
: 12 miles west of Lihue.
A
LLERTON
/M
CBRYDE
G
ARDENS
: Tel 808-742-2623;
www.ntbg.org
.
Cost:
Allerton $35; McBryde $20.
When:
Allerton Garden via tours only, Mon–Sat; McBryde Garden daily.
G
RAND
H
YATT
K
AUAI
: Tel 800-55-HYATT or 808-742-1234;
www.kauai-hyatt.com
(golf, tel 808-742-8711;
www.poipubaygolf.com
).
Cost:
from $455; greens fees $185 ($125 for hotel guests).
B
EST TIMES
: Mar for the daylong Prince Kuhio Celebration of the Arts; July for the weeklong Koloa Plantation Days (
www.koloaplantationdays.com
); July–Sept for greatest variety at the botanical gardens.

Grand Canyon of the Pacific

Kauai, Hawaii

Ten miles long, more than a mile across, and over 3,500 feet deep, Waimea Canyon is one of Kauai’s most awe-inspiring sights. Dubbed “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific” by Mark Twain, the cavernous gorge
was carved by the Waimea River, which channels heavy rainfall from Mount Wai’ale’ale through lava flows that filled in a depression where a part of the island collapsed catastrophically 4 million years ago. The rich palette of ocher, russet, and amber, the colors of the weathered rock, is enhanced in places by vivid green vegetation and the occasional striking white stripe of a waterfall. You can take in the view from above via helicopter (see p. 944) or at scenic overlooks—such as the Waimea Canyon Lookout on Waimea Canyon Road, or the 3,336-foot-high Puu Hina Hina Lookout 3 miles beyond—or from ground level at 1,866-acre Waimea Canyon State Park.

In Waimea Canyon and its neighbor to the north, Koke’e State Park, there’s a vast network of hiking trails snaking through some 6,200 acres of rain forest. Short hikes offer views of the stunning landscape and encounters with native plants, trees, and birds, while long, often strenuous hikes lead to the base of the canyon, where
you can immerse yourself in a place that bears the marks of all the lava flows, earthquakes, and torrential storms that have shaped it. Koke’e Park’s streams offer seasonal trout fishing, and from its scenic vistas you can see the privately owned island of Ni’ihau, also known as the “Forbidden Isle,” 17 miles distant.

Low-key Waimea (population 1,787), the original capital of Kauai, is the town closest to the Canyon. With dogs napping in the dusty street and residents sitting on wide porches watching the traffic go by, it seems to be a town that time forgot, and it’s a great place to relax and wander, taking in the historic buildings. The town’s claim to fame is that Captain James Cook made the first European contact with Hawaii here in 1788, dropping anchor at a sleepy village of grass shacks before sailing down to the Big Island (see p. 940).

The only accommodations to speak of are the Waimea Plantation Cottages, 50 restored century-old workers’ homes that were relocated to a lovely beachside coconut grove. Every cozy cabin has been remodeled with a modern kitchen; the rattan and wicker furniture and fabrics from the 1930s, when sugar was king on Kauai, lend an old-time plantation atmosphere. Each has a furnished lanai, some with views of the ocean.

From the Waimea Canyon Lookout see a waterfall cascade over the canyon’s ancient volcanic rock.

W
HERE
: 32 miles west of Lihu’e.
W
AIMEA
C
ANYON AND
K
OKE’E
S
TATE
P
ARKS
:
www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/kauai.html
.
W
AIMEA
P
LANTATION
C
OTTAGES
: Tel 800-9-WAIMEA or 808-338-1625;
www.waimeaplantation.com
.
Cost:
from $140.
B
EST TIMES
: May–Oct for weather.