A Family Guide To Keeping Chickens (50 page)

Understanding Feather Loss

This can be alarming the first time it happens. You open the henhouse door one morning and find feathers all over the floor – it looks as if the fox has paid a visit!

Moulting usually occurs at the end of summer or beginning of autumn, depending on when the bird was hatched. Pullets lay for up to a year before moulting and then it becomes an annual event. While some lose only a few feathers, others can look as if they have been through a particularly fierce wind tunnel. A once fluffy hen may resemble something that’s just been released from a battery cage.

Moulting

Face, wattles and comb become paler – the comb shrinks too. Chickens are under some strain at this time and as they concentrate their resources into growing new feathers, egg-laying gradually decreases and stops.

The moult may last a few weeks (older hens take longer) and some hens won’t lay again until spring. Feathers are mainly made up of protein so feeding plenty of good-quality food (keep grain and treats to a minimum to make sure they eat it) will help chickens re-feather. Some people like to give their birds a tonic to help them through the moult.

Eventually small ‘pin’ feathers will start to show. These are full of blood so the chicken may be sensitive to being handled at this time.

Clipped wing feathers will grow back too, but don’t re-clip them until the quills are white again (see
Chapter 8
).

Check for parasites if the birds don’t re-feather as expected.

Some birds go through a ‘partial moult’ and might lose just a few neck feathers. Stress or parasites can also result in loss of feathers.

Chickens sometimes eat feathers to compensate for lack of protein in their diet and may pull out each other’s feathers – ‘feather pecking’.

Boredom, overcrowding or parasites are also causes of feather pecking, which can turn into a serious problem. Eventually blood will be drawn, leading to further attacks and even fatalities.

You can use an anti-peck spray, which is designed to make the feathers taste unpleasant to the birds, but you should also eliminate the cause of the problem. Make sure the chickens have enough space and consider whether the mixture of breeds is appropriate (some breeds are more easily picked on, while those with muffling and crests often become targets). Cut out grain and make sure the chickens are eating the correct diet. Let them free-range if possible and supply plenty of distractions in the run. If there is a main perpetrator, put her where she can see the others but not pick on them.

Watch out for feather pecking during the moult, as the partially feathered birds will be particularly vulnerable.

Hens sometimes have bald patches on their backs due to an over-attentive cockerel. They should be separated from him or else their backs can be protected by poultry saddles. These provide an ideal hiding place for parasites so the hens should be sprayed with repellent and inspected frequently.

Looking After Yourself!

In order to look after your chickens you need to stay healthy too. There are a few common sense precautions you can take:

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Always wash your hands after dealing with chickens

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Wear gloves – either heavy duty or disposable – whenever appropriate

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Use overalls or old clothes for messy jobs and change out of them before sitting down indoors

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Always use a face-mask when spreading powders (even those safe for chickens)

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Keep all medication and cleaning products out of reach of children and pets

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Dispose of any unused medication and packaging properly (the vet can help with this)

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Only use drugs that are licensed for chickens, unless instructed by the vet

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Maintain good hygiene standards when dealing with eggs and chicken meat

Protect yourself when doing messy jobs

Key Points

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Seek veterinary advice if concerned about your chickens’ health

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Check your birds regularly and separate any chicken that is unwell or injured

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Standard droppings are brown with a white tip – one in ten is sloppier and frothy

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Keep dust to a minimum and don’t let the coop smell of ammonia

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New birds should be isolated for at least three weeks

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Diseases can be transferred via humans

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Stress makes chickens more susceptible to infections

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External parasites can weaken chickens and cause fatalities

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Red mite live in the henhouse and feed on chickens at night

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Northern fowl mite live on the birds and look like greasy black clumps

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Scaly leg mite cause scales to become raised with white crusts

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Lice are small grey insects – the eggs are white clusters at the base of feathers

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Chicken fleas are usually found as brown spots on the head

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Ticks should be dabbed with surgical spirit or smothered in Vaseline

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Depluming mite burrow into feather shafts, causing the chicken to pull out feathers

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Ivermectin should only be used in consultation with the vet and requires an egg-withdrawal period

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If several birds are unwell, or there are many unexplained deaths, contact the vet at once

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Symptoms of mycoplasma are foamy eyes, swollen sinuses, rasping breath and sneezing

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Infectious bronchitis has similar symptoms to mycoplasma but spreads rapidly and can cause reproductive disease

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Aspergillosis is caused by fungal spores in mouldy organic matter

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Warm, damp conditions can result in coccidiosis

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Marek’s disease usually causes paralysis of legs and wings