Apple Cookbook (4 page)

The U.S. Apple Association advises consumers to refrigerate apples in the hydrator drawer, at temperatures anywhere from 32 to 40°F.

The best apples for keeping include Cortland, Delicious, Empire, Fuji, Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Ida Red, Macoun, McIntosh, Mutsu/Crispin, Northern Spy, Rhode Island Greening, Rome Beauty, Stayman, and Winesap.

Summer apples harvested in July, August, and early September are not good keepers. These must be refrigerated immediately and used within four to six weeks. These include the following varieties: Ginger Gold, Jerseymac, Jonamac, Lodi, Patricia, Paula Red, Puritan, Raritan, Tydeman Red, and Wellington.

When keeping your apples under refrigeration, be sure to store them in perforated plastic bags or containers to prevent them from drying out.

With some varieties, even short exposure to warm temperatures causes over-ripening, a mealy texture, and loss of flavor. So whether you pick your own apples or buy them in a store, put them into a cool place without delay. However, check first for damaged or bruised apples and set those aside for immediate use. As we all know, a rotten apple in the barrel surely does spoil the whole crop.

Besides refrigeration, other methods of preserving a bounteous harvest include freezing and canning slices and sauce, and putting up preserves. See Preserving the Apple Harvest, pages 155–167, for more information.

I have given apple variety recommendations in most of the recipes in this cookbook, because some recipes work better with sweet apples, some with tart apples, and some with those apples that have a hard texture and don’t fall apart. For example, in the Apple Puff Omelette on page 16, I have specified 2 large Cortland, Jonathan, or Ida Red apples. Any of these
would be my first choice because of their flavor and texture. However, if these varieties were not available, I would choose another that had similar qualities. In this case, I would choose Granny Smith apples that were very light green, an indication that they were ripe and only mildly tart (as opposed to dark green and very tart) and because they have a firm texture. Failing that choice, I would then look for Golden Delicious, Jonathan, or Jonagold apples that were more green than yellow, an indication that they were barely ripe, having a firm texture and a more tart flavor than when completely yellow and fully ripe. If in doubt, refer to Meet the Apples: Apple Varieties, pages 168–180.

When a recipe calls for one large apple and yours look small to medium, substitute by the cup according to the table of Apple Equivalents on page 12.

I grew up in a family where high blood pressure was a problem. For many years, salt was eliminated from our meals. This created no great exercise for my mother for the simple reason that the English like to keep their taste buds in shape by experiencing a variety of miniature taste explosions.

Our roast beef and ham sandwiches would be liberally smeared with eye-watering Colman’s mustard. Thyme, sage, parsley, oregano, and garlic were kitchen staples that found their way into a great many stews and casseroles.

Apples and spices belong together. At times, I’ve had to restrain my urges to go hog-wild on these very fragrant powders. However, you may find that I haven’t been generous enough for your taste in my recipes, so by all means experiment and add an extra pinch here and there.

So, although my mother uses salt judiciously today, I do not. However, you may want to add salt to taste in the savory dishes.

A
GOOD BREAKFAST
is touted as the best way to start your day; and what better way to add interest and nutrition to your breakfast than with apples? They go into everything from omelettes to pancakes, and they taste great alongside bacon, sausage, and ham. Apples add both flavor and moistness to a wide variety of breakfast breads, coffee cakes, and baked goods.

This is a good way to make an omelette for four people so that everyone eats at the same time. You can prepare the apples the night before and heat them in a skillet for a couple of minutes the next morning. You can also keep canned apple slices in the pantry and substitute those in a pinch
.

2 large apples (Cortland, Jonathan, Ida Red)

4 tablespoons butter

¼ cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 eggs

¼ cup granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

1
. Preheat oven to 450°F.

2
. Peel, core, and thinly slice the apples.

3
. Heat the butter in a medium-sized skillet, and sauté the apples for 5 minutes over low heat.

4
. Mix the brown sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle over the apples. Toss and continue to sauté the apples for about 10 minutes, until they caramelize. The mixture will be thick and syrupy.

5
. Spoon the mixture into an 8-inch-square baking dish and keep hot in the oven.

6
. Separate the eggs. Whisk the yolks and the granulated sugar in a small bowl until fairly thick.

7
. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff and shiny. Fold into the yolk mixture, a third at a time.

8
. Pour the egg mixture over the apples and bake for 8–10 minutes. The omelette will be puffed and golden. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the confectioners’ sugar. Serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings

I have made this omelette with soybean protein “crumbles” and also “veggie ground round.” The flavorings and textures are uncannily sausagelike, making these foods good substitutions for the sausage
.

4 ounces sausage meat

3 scallions, including green tops, sliced

1 medium apple (Granny Smith, Baldwin, Winesap, Empire)

½–1 tablespoon butter

4 eggs

freshly ground black pepper

1
. In a medium-sized skillet, brown the sausage meat, breaking it up and turning it as it cooks, for about 8 minutes. Drain off most of the fat and push the meat to one side.

2
. Add the scallions to the skillet and sauté for 2 minutes.

3
. Peel, core, and chop the apple. Stir into the sausage meat and scallions and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.

4
. Heat the butter in a medium-sized skillet over medium heat. Lightly beat the eggs and add to the foaming butter. Shake the pan to spread the eggs. As they set, use a fork to make a zigzag pattern from the edges to the center in several places. Shake the pan to keep the uncooked egg mixture moving.

5
. After 2–3 minutes, the eggs should be set on the bottom, and the top should be creamy. Remove from the heat; spoon the sausage mixture onto one side of the eggs.

6
. Fold the other half over the filling and slide the omelette onto a warm plate. Sprinkle with the pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings

This is an easy way to have a good breakfast and satisfy a sweet tooth at the same time. It also makes a good after-school snack
.

2 eggs

1 tablespoon honey

1 medium apple (Granny Smith, Braeburn, Empire)

1 teaspoon butter

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1
. Beat the eggs with the honey.

2
. Grate the apple into the eggs. Stir to mix.

3
. Heat the butter and oil in a skillet. When it starts to sizzle, pour in the egg mixture.

4
. Start stirring immediately with a wooden spoon. Cook for 3–4 minutes, or until the eggs are cooked.

5
. Serve on buttered toast for breakfast or a hot snack.

Yield: 2 servings