Cheaper, Better, Faster (2 page)

Driving shoes

Keep a pair of driving shoes in the car. Sharp heels and sport shoes wear holes in the carpet. Use a carpet sample or remnant under the pedals to prolong the life of your vehicle's carpet.

Driving too slowly

Don't poke along in city driving. The slower you go doesn't mean the slower the car will wear. Actually the opposite is true. Slow driving costs you miles per gallon and increases engine deposits. Keep your city speed in the economical 35 to
45 mph range when possible. Most cars reach their maximum mileage potential in this range, so this practice not only ensures top miles per gallon in the city but also promotes longer engine life.

Engine care—avoid super-
short drives

You drive home and leave the car parked out front. Later you put it away for the night by starting the engine and putting it in the garage. Because 90 to 95 percent of engine wear occurs in the first 10 seconds after starting the engine and before the engine becomes fully lubricated, that start-up and short drive into the garage causes the equivalent of 500 miles of mechanical engine wear.

Engine care—no revving

Do not race your engine out of gear or in neutral. Revving an engine while the car is not moving can only do harm; it will never help. Many people like to rev the engine a few times just before putting it to bed. The old theory held that the extra revs pumped extra oil through the cylinder walls and made the next start easier. Actually, the opposite is true. Those high rpms allow unburned fuel to dilute the oil, wash away protective cylinder coatings, and contribute to sludge buildup and oil contamination.

Engine care—park on pavement

Try to always park on pavement, even at home. Don't park in the alley when you can park on the paved street. You'd be surprised how much dirt and dust can be sucked into your car's engine compartment when it is parked in dusty areas. Abrasive wear caused by grit, dust, and dirt is one of the major causes of engine failure. Keep away from dirt and dust-producing areas, and you will enhance your car's longevity.

Engine care—short
trips in cold weather

If at all possible, don't take your car on short trips of less
than five miles on days when the temperature is below freezing. Really cold weather can affect the pressure, plugs, and oil, and short trips don't allow the engine to warm properly. If a bus is available, take it, or if you can accomplish your goal with the telephone or internet instead of going in person, do it.

Engine care—unplug electrical
devices

Unnecessary use of electrical devices, such as headlights in the daytime (unless required for safety), or anything plugged into the cigarette lighter like a cell phone, hair dryer, curling iron, or electric razor will actually make an engine work harder by making it more difficult to turn the alternator.

Fan belt emergency

Pantyhose can come through as an emergency fan belt if your car's fan belt breaks. Cut away the panty portion and twirl both legs into a rope. Then wrap the strong nylon rope around your car engine pulleys, tie your best knot, and cut off the loose end. Start your car and drive slowly for several miles to a gas station or phone or other sources of help.

Gadget caddy

A large handbag or other kind of handled tote with many zippered compartments makes a dandy storage system for the trunk of your car. Fill the pockets with battery cables, a flashlight, a first-aid kit, maps, window cleaner, paper towels, and a plastic window scraper.

Gas cap replacement

Have you ever left your gas cap at the service station? You won't be surprised to know that many others have too. The next time you're capless, ask the station attendants if you might look through their lost-and-found gas cap assortment. You're sure to find one that fits, and they'll be happy to have you take one off their hands.

Gas fill-up—make it Wednesday mornings

On average, Wednesday is the cheapest day to buy gas and the earlier in the day, the better. Many station owners wait to see their competitors' prices to make their own adjustments. While this is not always true, consistently buying gas on Wednesday mornings has been shown to minimize the price you'll pay over time. Every little bit helps.

Gas grade—go
with what is recommended

Make sure you use the octane grade gasoline recommended in your car owner's manual. Using a more expensive higher-octane gas than recommended will deliver no benefit, and a lower-octane gas than recommended could damage the engine.

Gas mileage—better with an empty trunk

Don't carry more than you need. A light load results in much better gas mileage. Clean out heavy items from the trunk, and leave only the spare tire and safety equipment. Don't make your car a mobile warehouse for stuff you can just as easily leave in the garage.

Gas mileage—better with turns on red

Save gasoline and contribute to the long life of your car's engine by taking advantage of “right turn on red” laws. After coming to a complete stop, if the way is clear, turn right on that red light and keep moving. Unnecessary idling time spent at red lights wastes your fuel and that of the cars behind you. Cut idle time and you cut carbon and sludge buildup.

Gas mileage—skip
the roof and trunk racks

If you'd like to increase your gas mileage, avoid roof and trunk racks. These things affect aerodynamics and significantly reduce gas mileage.

Gas pumping
—keep your hands clean

Keep a box of baby wipes in the car to clean your hands after pumping gas.

Gas savings—go with smallest car

If economy is your first priority, buy the smallest car you can live with. Weight is the biggest enemy of fuel economy.

Gas savings
—park, walk, and save

When driving into a parking lot, take the first available space you see, and don't be afraid to walk the extra distance. Slow stop-and-go driving is the most gas consuming; so be willing to walk a little, and you'll save a lot.

Hubcap return—better your chances

With a permanent marking pen, write your name and phone number on the inside of your car's hubcaps. This way, if one goes flying you have a chance of having it returned. Include the word “reward,” and you will greatly increase the likelihood of a return. Even if it costs you 20 percent of the price of a replacement, you'll be 80 percent ahead.

Mechanics—opt for students

If your car has a ding, dent, or bent fender, check out the auto body department of a local vocational school or community college. You may be able to have your car repaired by the students—while under the watchful eye of the instructors. All you will be charged is the cost of parts. There is typically no labor charge under these circumstances.

Oil—bargains

Stockpile oil, oil filters, and air filters when they go on sale. Unopened bottles of oil have a long shelf life.

Oil—filter size

The most effective way to prolong the life of your car is to install the largest oil filter
that will fit under the hood. Be sure to change the oil and filter often.

Oil—poor quality

Be very cautious if you are tempted to buy oil at a quick-service mart or food store. Many of these outlets sell only cheap brands of oil. If only SA- or SB-rated oil is available, know that it is practically worthless if you are planning to put it into a 1968 or newer car. Unless you have an oil burner, stay away from these light-service oils. Look for an oil that carries the designation API Service SG.

Oil—slippery

Consider using an additive that increases the slipperiness of the engine oil in your car. Workers at your local auto parts store will gladly make a recommendation. If you infrequently take long freeway trips, inquire about fuel additives that reduce carbon buildup as well.

Oil—top it off

Don't wait until your car's oil is a quart low before adding more. There is no law saying you can't add half a quart and put the other half away for later use. A full crankcase guarantees the engine will have the maximum amount of oil available to it at all times. Each time you add even a small amount of fresh oil, you are recharging the entire lubricating system with fresh additives. Forty percent of the engine is directly dependent upon the oil to cool it.

Overheating

At the first sign of your car overheating, shut off the air conditioner and open the windows to decrease the load on the engine and help it cool down. If the car is still overheated, turn on the heater and blower to transfer heat from the engine to the interior. If you are stopped in traffic, shift into neutral and rev the engine a little to speed the water pump and fan. The increased
circulation should help to cool things off.

Parts—dealer

As a rule, car dealers charge 30 to 70 percent more for auto parts than auto parts stores do. Make a habit of checking auto parts stores first before running to the dealer. And don't overlook the auto-wrecking yards. They're the best deal going when the part you need does not have to be new.

Parts—reconditioned

If possible, use reconditioned or secondhand parts for repairs, especially if you are nursing an old car and you don't expect to drive it longer than two more years.

Polishes to avoid

Avoid car polishes that contain abrasives and those that seal too well because they close the pores of the paint. If the polish can says the product has a mild abrasive cleaner or seals the finish, stay away from it.

Protection—backseat

A bedsheet (flat or fitted) makes a great cover for the backseat. Tuck it in well and the upholstery will be protected from pets and kids. When it gets dirty, just throw it in the laundry.

Protection—radio and CD

In cold weather it's wise to wait until the car's interior warms up before using the radio or CD player. These units should be warm, especially the CD player, before they are turned on. Be patient and allow the heater to warm the interior, and your expensive sound system will work better longer.

Protection—vinyl dashboard and upholstery

The greatest enemy of your car's vinyl dashboard and interior is the sun's heat and ultraviolet rays. Here's what you can do to slow down vinyl deterioration: First clean the vinyl upholstery and dashboard. Dry it well and apply
sunscreen lotion with the highest UV factor you can find. Just rub it in as you would on your skin. When the sunscreen has had time to soak in, buff off any excess and apply a commercial vinyl protector, which will help seal it in.

Radiator—draining and replacement

Drain and replace your car's radiator fluid every other year. The anticorrosion elements of coolant are spent in about two years.

Radiator—sealing hole

Put a teaspoon of ground black pepper into your auto's radiator to seal a pin hole. Sounds a little wacky but it is nonetheless ingenious. It may take more than a teaspoon, but start with that. If you use too much pepper over time, however, you run the risk of clogging the heater core and losing your heat during cold weather. Consider this pepper trick a temporary measure to tide you over until you can afford a more permanent repair.

Rubber and plastic—make
black like new

When black rubber or plastic trim on your automobile fades or gets ugly white spots, apply black paste shoe polish. It will look like new again.

Snow
chains caddy

Start with an old pair of jeans. Cut off the legs like you're making short shorts. Then sew each leg shut, drop one chain into each “leg” compartment, and place the tools required for installation into the pockets. Attach handles for easy carrying.

Snow removal

Scrape snow from car windows with a plastic or rubber dustpan. It won't scratch the glass.

Static—dryer sheets to
the rescue

Use fabric softener sheets to clean and remove static from your car's dashboard, upholstery, and carpeting. Hide
the sheets under the seat and enjoy their subtle fragrance.

Sunglasses storage

Keep sunglasses handy when driving by storing them right on your car's sun visor. Attach the case to the visor by gluing adhesive-backed fasteners to each. Your shades will always be within easy reach.

Sunroof—more
headroom

If you've found the perfect car except for one thing—your hair touches the ceiling—consider ordering it with a sunroof; or if it's a used car, you could have one installed. A sunroof typically will give you another inch or two.

Test-drive—after purchase
of new car

When you finally take a new car home, give it a long and thorough test-drive. Take the car back to the dealer immediately if you detect a major problem. The courts have upheld demands for a refund when the car was returned within the first few days.

Test-drive—before accepting new car

Insist on a test-drive of your new car before you accept delivery. Never take delivery at night, because you want to examine the car carefully in full daylight. Make sure there's been no damage in transit and that the car has not been repainted. Telltale signs of repainting are paint traces on the rubber striping or trim, mismatched colors, and ill-fitting panels.

Test-drive—inspect for hidden damage

Looking for a used car? Check for signs of a repaired accident—damage on the car. Vehicles that have been banged up and reconstructed will have telltale signs. Have someone drive behind the car to see if the back wheels align with the front, and look for water marks in the trunk. Check under the hood to make sure the fender seams haven't
been sprayed over with paint. Most important, have the car checked by your mechanic.