Eating Italy: A Chef's Culinary Adventure (18 page)

¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil, plus a little extra for drizzling

1½ pounds (680 g) halibut fillets, cut into 4 pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 pitted Ligurian or Niçoise olives, halved lengthwise

24 fresh oregano leaves

12 thin slices of lemon

¼ cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

For the potatoes:
Put the potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil until the potatoes are tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Let the potatoes cool until warm, then cut in half lengthwise.

Heat the grapeseed oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and fry the potatoes, cut-side down, until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain any excess oil, then season the potatoes with salt and pepper and toss with the butter and chopped parsley.

For the halibut:
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Cut four 10-inch (25 cm) squares of parchment paper and grease each with a thin film of olive oil. Season the halibut all over with salt and pepper, then divide them among the parchment squares. Mix together the olives, oregano, and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the olive oil and arrange over the halibut. Overlap two to three lemon slices on each portion, then drizzle with the lemon juice. Divide the cut-up butter among the portions, scattering it over the lemons, and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of olive oil.

To make each package,
fold the parchment corner to corner over the fish to make a triangle. You’ll have to nudge the fish slightly off center to make the corners meet. Starting at one of the other corners, begin rolling the paper toward the fish; continue making a series of small double folds all the way around the fish until you reach the opposite corner and the paper is folded tight against the fish. Twist the final corner several times to seal it tight, then fold it under the paper package.

Put the packages on a large rimmed baking sheet and drizzle each with a little olive oil. Bake until the fish is about 120°F (49°C) on an instant-read thermometer stuck through one of the packages, 5 to 7 minutes.

Using a spatula, transfer each cartoccio to a plate. Slit open the package, arrange the potatoes around the fish, and serve immediately.

SPAGHETTI
al
NERO
di
SEPPIA
with
SHRIMP

The best squid ink actually comes from
seppia
(cuttlefish). The ink sacs are larger and have a stronger taste. I’ve seen squid ink used to flavor everything from pastas and sauces to breads and ricotta cheese. It’s one of my all-time favorite pastas. I use plenty of ink to make sure the pasta dough gets completely black. Be careful, though, the ink gets everywhere, just as with a busted ballpoint pen. To make the spaghetti, follow the directions on
page 283
for making squid ink pasta, then extrude the pasta through the spaghetti attachment of your pasta machine. If you buy dried squid ink spaghetti, add a few minutes to the cooking time here.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 pound (450 g) Squid Ink Spaghetti (
page 283
)

1 cup (235 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 leek, cleaned and trimmed and cut into long thin strips

1 quart (1 L) Shrimp Stock (
page 280
)

1 pound (450 g) shrimp, peeled and cut into ½-inch (2.5-cm) pieces

½ cup (60 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the spaghetti, quickly return the water to a boil, and cook until tender yet firm, 2 to 7 minutes, depending on how long the spaghetti has been refrigerated. Drain the pasta, reserving the pasta water.

Heat ¾ cup (178 ml) of the oil in a large, deep sauté pan over medium heat. Add the leek, and cook until soft but not browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the shrimp stock, and simmer it down a little, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the cooked pasta, shrimp, parsley, and the remaining ¼ cup (59 ml) of oil, cooking and tossing until the shrimp is no longer pink and the sauce is creamy, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, divide among bowls, and serve.

MEYER LEMON TORTAS
with
POPPY SEED GELATO

I’ve always loved lemon poppy seed pound cake. And I used to make a cold lemon cake that was soft and airy like a creamy soufflé. I wanted to put all those flavors together and came up with this dessert. It makes the perfect ending to a springtime meal. Poppy seeds are used here in the form of a gelato. Lemons appear in both the cake and the sauce, which features the peels of Meyer lemons. Meyer lemons taste closer to Ligurian lemons than your typical American Eureka lemons do. But if you can’t find Meyers, you can use regular lemons here. Just taste the lemons and add some sugar to balance the acidity.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Torta:

5⅓ tablespoons (75 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

⅔ cup plus 2½ (180 g) tablespoons granulated sugar, divided

3 large eggs, at room temperature, separated

1 Meyer lemon

¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (101 g)
tipo
00 flour (see
page 277
) or all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

⅓ cup (90 ml) whole milk

Lemon Peel Sauce:

1¼ cups (120 g) Meyer lemon peel

¾ cup (175 ml) freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice

1¼ cups (250 g) granulated sugar

½ teaspoon (2.25 g) powdered pectin

To Serve:

1½ cups (375 ml) Poppy Seed Gelato (
page 287
)

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Boil a kettle of water for a hot water bath.

For the torta:
In a stand mixer on medium speed, cream the butter and ⅔ cup (133 g) of the sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, mixing until they are incorporated, scraping down the bowl frequently. Grate the zest from the lemon into the bowl and squeeze the juice into the bowl. Mix until combined.

Combine the flour and salt. Alternate between adding the flour mixture and milk to the batter in three additions, ending with the milk.

Meanwhile, whip the egg whites on medium speed, slowly adding the remaining 2½ tablespoons (32 g) of sugar until medium peaks form when the beaters are lifted, about 5 minutes. Gently fold the whites into the egg yolk mixture in three additions.

Butter and flour eight 4-ounce (120-ml) ramekins or baking tins and place them in a 15 x 10-inch (38 x 25-cm) baking dish or a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the batter into the ramekins to just under the inside rim. Slide the baking dish into the oven and carefully pour boiling water into the dish or sheet to come about ½ inch (1.25 cm) up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until just set, 13 to 15 minutes. Remove the tortas from the water bath, and let the tortas cool in the ramekins. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.

For the lemon peel sauce:
Fill a bowl with ice water. Put the lemon peels in a pot with cold water to cover by 1 inch (2.5 cm). Bring to a boil, drain immediately, and transfer the peels to the ice water to stop the cooking. Repeat this process of boiling, draining, and cooling in ice water three times.

Combine the lemon juice, ¼ cup (60 ml) of water, and the lemon peel in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir together the sugar and pectin in a small bowl and then add to the pan. Bring the mixture to 217°F (103°C) on a candy thermometer. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 1 week.

To serve:
Spoon a pool of sauce on each plate. Run a knife around each torta and then invert over the plate to unmold. Drizzle more sauce on top and then spoon the poppy seed gelato on the side.

SWEET RICOTTA FRITTELLE
with
RASPBERRY PRESERVES

Italians will make fritters out of anything. Meat, fish, vegetables, and fruit. They’re the ultimate snack when paired with something creamy. I was looking through some old Italian cookbooks and kept coming across this ricotta fritter with lemon curd. I thought it would be fun to use raspberries instead of lemon. The fritter ends up tasting sort of like a jelly doughnut but with the raspberry preserves on the side. The fruit marries well with the cheese.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Raspberry Preserves:

¼ cup (60 ml) glucose syrup or light corn syrup

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (175 g) granulated sugar, divided

1 pound (450 g) raspberries (about 3¾ cups)

1½ teaspoons (7 g) powdered pectin

Frittelle:

14 ounces (400 g) fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese (1¾ cups)

2 large eggs

¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar

Zest of 1 lemon

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

¾ cup (94 g)
tipo
00 flour (see
page 277
) or all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon (4.5 g) baking powder

Oil, for frying

To Serve:

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

For the raspberry preserves:
Combine the glucose syrup, ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (125 g) of the sugar, and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Gently stir in the raspberries, and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Combine the pectin and the remaining ¼ cup (50 g) of sugar in a small bowl and gradually whisk into the berries. Return the mixture to a boil, and cook until slightly thickened, 4 to 5 minutes. The preserves will set further upon cooling. Scrape into a heatproof bowl and let cool. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

For the frittelle:
Combine the ricotta, eggs, sugar, lemon zest, and vanilla in a stand mixer on low speed until blended. Combine the flour and baking powder in a small bowl and gradually add to the ricotta mixture on low speed. Scoop the mixture into 2-inch (5-cm)-diameter balls onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. (Or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day, scooping out balls of dough as needed.) You should have 20 to 24 balls.

Heat the oil in a deep fryer or heavy pot to 375°F (190°C). Fry the balls in batches without crowding until set in the center and deep golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes, adjusting the heat to maintain the frying temperature at all times. Drain on paper towels.

To serve:
Spoon a pool of preserves on the bottom of each plate. Top with two or three
fritelle
and a dusting of confectioners’ sugar.

CHICKPEA CAKES
with
WARM LEMON CREMA

Every town in le Cinque Terre uses chickpeas and chickpea flour in a variety of dishes. You can smell the
farinata
(chickpea flatbreads) cooking in the streets during lunchtime. After my first visit, I researched how the residents used chickpeas and was surprised to hear how popular they were in desserts. What makes this dessert special is that you coat the cake molds with sugar, so they get a little crunchy on the outside. The insides of the cakes stay moist and complement the buttery lemon sauce. I like the cakes so much, I always make a big batch. But if you want less, you can halve this recipe.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Chickpea Cakes:

3 cups (600 g) cooked or canned chickpeas (drain and rinse if using canned)

10 tablespoons (125 g) granulated sugar

Zest of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons (16 g)
tipo
00 flour (see
page 277
) or all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

1 large whole egg, plus 4 large eggs, separated

Lemon Sauce:

Juice of 3 lemons

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 g) granulated sugar

4 large egg yolks

4 ounces (1 stick/113 g) unsalted butter

½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream

To Serve:

Olive oil, for drizzling

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting