Eating Italy: A Chef's Culinary Adventure (44 page)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 artichokes, each about 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter

½ cup (120 ml) white wine

4 wild European branzino fillets, (5 to 6 ounces/142 to 170 g each), skin on

1 cup (235 ml) Fish Stock (
page 279
)

1 tablespoon (15 ml) truffle paste

2 tablespoons (7 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Trim the fennel bulbs and then cut them in half lengthwise, keeping the cores intact. Slice the fennel lengthwise into strips so the cores keep the slices whole. Toss the fennel with ten sprigs of the thyme, two of the sliced garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the oil, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the melted butter, and 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of the lemon juice on a rimmed baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper and then lay the pieces in a single layer. Roast until tender, about 1 hour, turning once halfway through.

Combine 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of the remaining lemon juice with 3 cups (750 ml) of water in a medium bowl. Cut one of the artichokes in half through the equator to remove most of the leaves and expose the choke (the fuzzy part). Scoop out and discard the choke. Use a paring knife to pare down the artichoke to just the tender white part (the heart) with some of the tender white stem attached. Cut the artichoke heart into eight equal-size wedges. Toss in the acidulated water to prevent discoloration, then repeat the process with the remaining artichokes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the artichokes to a roasting pan and add the wine, ½ cup (120 ml) of the remaining oil, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the remaining melted butter, the remaining garlic clove, and the remaining three sprigs of thyme, tossing to coat. Cover with foil and roast until the artichokes are tender, about 45 minutes.

Heat a grill to medium-high heat. Coat the fish lightly with oil and season with salt and pepper. Scrape the grill rack and coat it with oil. Grill the fish, skin-side down, until the skin is crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip, and grill until the fish is still a little filmy and moist in the center, 3 to 4 minutes more.

Meanwhile, transfer the roasted fennel and roasted artichokes to a large deep sauté pan, discarding the thyme sprigs. Add the fish stock, remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of melted butter, remaining 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (35 ml) of oil, remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of lemon juice, and the truffle paste, and cook over medium heat until the sauce gets a little creamy and coats the vegetables, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Lay the branzino on plates, skin-side up. Spoon the fennel and artichokes over the fish, spooning the sauce over the vegetables and around the plate.

CITRUS RUM BABAS ALLA CREMA

The greatest thing about rum cake is that it’s saturated with rum syrup. When you bite into the cake, it’s like taking a shot of rum with syrup running over your lips and down your chin. It’s a classic Neapolitan dessert. We served miniature rum babas at our wedding, but make these any size you like. I serve them with a squeeze of pastry cream and some diced strawberries marinated in sugar and lemon juice.

MAKES 16 TO 18 SMALL BABAS

Starter:

4 packed teaspoons (25 g) fresh yeast, or 2 teaspoons (8 g) active dry yeast

1 tablespoon (15 ml) warm water (110°F/43°C)

3 tablespoons (25 g) bread flour

4 teaspoons (16 g) granulated sugar

Babas:

1½ cups (205 g) bread flour

1 cup plus 4 teaspoons (216 g) granulated sugar, divided

3 large eggs

5 tablespoons (71 g) unsalted butter, softened

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Pinch of salt

7 ounces (200 g) candied orange peel, finely chopped (about 1 cup) (see
page 288
)

½ cup (120 ml) dark spiced rum, such as Myers’s

2 cups (475 ml) Pastry Cream (
page 285
)

For the starter:
Stir together the yeast, water, flour, and sugar in the bowl of a mixer. Let stand in a warm spot until the surface looks foamy, 20 to 30 minutes.

For the babas:
Add the flour, 4 teaspoons (16 g) of the sugar, and the eggs, butter, vanilla, and salt to the starter and mix with the paddle attachment on medium speed until the dough is so sticky that it wraps around itself, 20 to 30 minutes, scraping down the sides several times. Mix the candied orange peel into the dough. Coat sixteen to eighteen 1- to 2-ounce (30- to 60-ml) silicone baking cups with cooking spray (I use a single tray of 1.5-ounce/45-ml cone-shaped silicone cups; you could also use larger baking cups or muffin cups). Divide the dough into sixteen to eighteen pieces, each about 1 ounce (28 g), and place each piece in a prepared cup (if using larger baking cups, use larger pieces to fill them). Cover loosely and let rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Bake the babas until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the remaining 1 cup (200 g) of sugar with 1 cup (235 ml) of water in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then remove from the heat and stir in the rum. When the babas come out of the oven, remove them from their molds, let cool slightly, then immerse each one completely in the rum syrup for 10 to 15 seconds until completely saturated. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. The babas can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

When ready to serve, spoon the cooled pastry cream into a pastry bag or resealable plastic bag. Cut a deep slit in the babas from top to bottom, leaving the babas intact at the back, and pipe the pastry cream into the slit. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 hour before serving.

OLIVE OIL PANNA COTTA
with
SUMMER BERRIES

Claudia and I got married in Italy in the summertime, and this dish was the star of the dessert buffet. It was served with wild blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and red and white currants. But you can use whatever berries are freshest when and where you make it. The important thing is to use a good, strong olive oil, preferably a peppery one from southern Italy. That’s what makes this panna cotta different from others. The peppery olive oil jumps out at you and marries perfectly with the sweet berries.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Panna Cotta:

⅔ cup (150 ml) olive oil, plus some for greasing ramekins

1½ cups (375) heavy cream

1 cup (235 ml) whole milk

⅔ cup (133 g) granulated sugar

2¼ teaspoons (5.25 g) powdered gelatin

Berries:

2 cups (300 g) mixed fresh berries (blueberries, huckleberries, strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries)

¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar

2 tablespoons (30 ml) farmers’ honey (any variety)

3 tablespoons (45 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

For the panna cotta:
Coat six 4-ounce (125-ml) ramekins with olive oil and fill a large bowl with ice water. Bring the cream, milk, and sugar to a boil in a small saucepan. Lower the heat so that the mixture simmers gently, and sprinkle the gelatin over the top, whisking to disperse it evenly. Use a stick blender to buzz in the ⅔ cup (150 ml) of olive oil in a thin steam until the mixture is blended and emulsified.

Briefly dip the bottom of the pan into the ice water to cool down the mixture slightly, whisking gently as it cools. Before it gets too firm to pour, divide the mixture among the prepared ramekins. Refrigerate overnight or up to 2 days.

For the berries:
Stir together the berries, sugar, honey, and lemon juice in a small bowl, cover, and let marinate at room temperature for 24 hours.

Unmold the panna cotta onto plates and spoon on the marinated berries and their syrup.

CHIACCHIERE
with
COFFEE
and
CHOCOLATE BUDINO

During
carnevale
in Italy, you see
chiacchiere
everywhere. They’re crispy little strips of fried dough. The dough usually includes a little grappa. It is a celebration, after all. I like to shape them into little knots so you can dip them like edible spoons into creamy coffee and chocolate pudding. Serve the pudding in coffee cups, if you like. That hints at the meaning of
chiacchiere
, which translates literally to “chatter” or “small talk,” the sort of thing that happens over a cup of coffee.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Budino:

3½ teaspoons (6.5 g) very finely ground espresso

1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons (455 ml) heavy cream

6 tablespoons (75 g) granulated sugar, divided

Pinch of salt

½ vanilla bean, split and scraped

4 large egg yolks

3 ounces (85 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (about ½ cup)

Chiacchiere:

¾ cup (94 g)
tipo
00 flour (see
page 277
) or all-purpose flour, plus some for dusting

2½ teaspoons (10.5 g) granulated sugar

Pinch of salt

2 teaspoons (9 g) unsalted butter, softened

1 small egg

1½ teaspoons (7 ml) grappa

Zest of ½ orange

½ vanilla bean, split and scraped

5 teaspoons (25 ml) whole milk

Oil for frying

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

For the budino:
Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Whisk together the espresso, cream, 3 tablespoons (38 g) of the sugar, and the salt and vanilla in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Combine the egg yolks and remaining 3 tablespoons (38 g) of sugar in the bowl of a mixer and whip on high speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Very gradually whisk the cream mixture into the egg mixture to prevent scrambling the eggs. When combined, pour the hot mixture over the chocolate in a medium bowl. Let stand until melted enough to be stirred smooth. Strain the mixture and pour into four to six 4-ounce (175-ml) ramekins. Set the ramekins in a roasting pan and pour enough hot water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the sides are set but the center is still a little jiggly, 25 to 35 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the water bath and let cool completely on a rack. Cover and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.

For the chiacchiere:
Combine the flour, sugar, salt, butter, egg, grappa, orange zest, vanilla, and milk in the bowl of a mixer. Mix on medium speed with the paddle attachment until the dough comes together and gathers around the paddle, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape the dough onto a sheet of plastic and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 1 hour or up to 1 day.

Shape the dough into an oblong disk the width of your pasta machine. Lightly flour a work surface and position a pasta roller at the widest setting. Roll the dough through the rollers, lightly dusting the dough with flour and brushing off the excess with your hands. Reset the rollers to the next narrowest setting and again pass the dough through the rollers, dusting again with flour. Pass the dough once or twice through each progressively narrower setting. Roll the dough to about
inch (1.5 mm) thick, about setting #4 or 5 on the KitchenAid pasta attachment. Trim the edges square and then cut the dough crosswise into ½-inch (1.25-cm)-wide strips. Tie each strip into a knot like a pretzel. You should have thirty-five to forty knots, which can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 day or frozen for up to 1 month.