Fairy Tale Queens: Representations of Early Modern Queenship (35 page)

27. James McGlathery, 
Fairy Tale Romance: The Grimms, Basile, and Perrault
 (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1991),121.

28. See Christine Shojaei Kawan, “A Brief Literary History of 
Snow
White,
 ” 
Fabula
 49, no. 3-4 (2008), 325–41; Steven Swann Jones, 
The New
 
Comparative Method: Structural and Symbolic Analysis of the Allomotifs
of “Snow White”
 (Helsinki: FF Communications, 1990). As Jones carefully outlines, early modern tales include some but not all of the episodes and structural motifs he has identified as characteristic of “Snow White.” There have also been various attempts to locate a historical source for the character of Snow White. In 1994, German scholar Eckhard Sander wrote a book in which he suggests that the Snow White character was based on Margarete von Waldek, a German countess with whom Philip II was said to have had a liaison. 
Schneewittchen:Märchen
oder Wahrheit?:Ein lokaler Bezug zum Kellerwald Gudensberg-Gleichen
(Snow White: Fairytale or Truth?: A local reference to the ‘Kellerwald’ region) (Wartberg: Verlag, 1994). I am grateful to Brigitte Gebert for her help with this reference.

29. Basile’s “The Young Slave” is often cited as an early version of Snow White.

30. D’Aulnoy, “Gracieuse and Percinet,” in Macdonell, 1–18.

31. Erasmus,
Collected Works of Erasmus,
 vol. 2, eds. William Barker, et. al. (Toronto: University of Toronton Press, 2005), 216.

32. Frederic J. Baumgartner, 
Louis XII
 (New York: Palgrave Macmillan 1996), 240.

33. Qtd. in Karen Lindsey, 
Divorced, Beheaded, Survived: A Feminist Reinterpretation of the Wives of Henry VIII
 (Reading, PA: Addison-Wesley Publishing Co., 1995), 34.

34. On Queen Juana, see Bethany Aram, 
Juana the Mad: Sovereignty and
Dynasty in Renaissance Europe (
 Baltimore, MD: The Johns Hopkins University Press, 2005) and Maria Gomez, 
Juana of Castile: History and
Myth of the Mad Queen
 (Lewisburg, PA: Bucknell University Press, 2008).

35. Juana and Philip did not intend to visit England, but as their armada made its way to the Netherlands bad weather forced a landing on the English coast. For an account of the interesting impromptu visit, see Aram, 83. See also 
CSP Spain,
 Supplements to vols. 1 and 2: Queen Katherine: Intended Marriage of Henry VII to Queen Juana.

36. Chrimes, S. B., 
Henry VII
 (London: Eyre Methuen, 1972), 236–43.

37. J. Gairdner, ed. 
Memorials of King Henry VIII
 (Rolls Series, 1858),

237–42; 
CSP Spain
, vol. 1, June 1505. Item 436.

38. Retha Warnicke,
The Marrying of Anne of Cleves: Royal Protocol in Early
Modern England
 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2007). See chapter 2, “English Negotiators” for a helpful look at the process of the royal marriage market.

39. 
Les Oeconomies Royale de Sully
, vol. 1, eds. David Buisseret and Bernard Barbiche (Paris: Klincksieck, 1970–1978), 276.

40. See David Buisseret, 
Henry IV
 (London: Unwin Hyman, 1984), 79.

41. Frieda, 386.

42. 
CSP Foreign,
 vol. 8, pt. 5, Dec. 4, 1537. Item 1172.

43. Ibid.

44. 
CSP Foreign,
 vol. 8, part 5, Dec. 9, 1537. Item 1188.

45. 
CSP Foreign,
 vol. 8, part 5, Dec. 9, 1537. Item 1187.

46. There is some disagreement about whether the Mistress Shelton in question is Mary or Margaret. The DNB entries on both Mary and Margaret argue in favor of Mary as the one linked with Henry.

47. 
L & P,
 vol. 13, pt. 2, August 12, 1538. Item 77 and August 20, 1538. Item 143; also, Warnicke,
The Marrying of Anne of Cleves,
 53.

48. Descriptions of Henry’s appearance are plentiful. See 
Henry VIII:
Images of a Tudor King,
 eds. Christopher Lloyd and Simon Thurley (Oxford, UK: Phaidon Press, 1995) and 
Henry VIII: Man and Monarch,
eds 
.,
 Susan Doran and David Starkey (London: British Library, 2009).

49. 
CSP Spain,
 vol. 1, Nov 28, 1501. Item 310.

50. 
CSP Spain,
 supplements to vol. 1 and 2, May 25, 1510. Item 7.

51. Thomas More,
Correspondence of Sir Thomas More,
 ed. E. F. Rogers (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1947), 4.

52. 
CSP Venice,
 vol. 4, August 25, 1531. Item 682.

53. 
L & P,
 Vol. 2, pt. 1, May 3, 1515. Item 410.

54. 
CSP Venice,
 vol. 2, June 4, 1519. Item 1230.

55. 
CSP Spain,
 vol. 1, April 4, 1500. Item 260; Starkey, 
Six Wives,
 29. Thomas More approved of Catherine’s looks but he was disappointed with her entourage: “But as for her Spanish retinue, it was beyond belief of God or man. You would have burst out laughing if you had seen them, for they looked so ridiculous, tattered, barefooted, pigmy Ethiopians, like devils out of hell,” 4.

56. 
L & P,
 vol. 2, pt. 1, May 3, 1515. Item 410.

57. 
CSP Venice,
 vol. 4, February 10, 1528. Item 236.

58. 
CSP Venice,
 vol, 4, October 31, 1532. Item 824.

59. Sander, 24.

60. Warnicke, 58.

61. 
CSP Spain,
 vol. 4, pt. 2, June 25, 1532. Item 967. See Ives, 51 n12 for problems with the translation of this passage and the original French.

62. 
L & P,
 vol. 10, pt. 1, May 19, 1536. Item 901.

63. 
Lisle Letters,
 Vol. 3, 306.

64. 
L & P,
 vol. 14, pt.1, January 20, 1539. Item 103.

65. 
L & P,
 vol. 12, pt. 2, December 4, 1537. Item 1172.

66. 
L & P,
 vol. 14 
,
 pt. 1, March 18, 1539. Item 552.

67. 
L & P,
 vol. 14, pt. 2, September 30, 1539. Item 258.

68. 
L & P,
 vol. 15, June 30, 1540. Item 823.

69. Burnet, 
The History of the Reformation of the Church of England
, 271–74.

70. Karen Lindsey and Retha Warnicke defend Anne against distorted accounts of her appearance.

71. 
L & P,
 vol. 15, pt. 1, January 5, 1540. Item 23.

72. D’Aulnoy, “The Hind in theWoods,” in Macdonell, 347–76.

73. 
L & P,
 vol. 15, pt. 1, July 21, 1540. Item 458.

74. 
Chronicle of King Henry VIII of England: Being a Contemporary Record of Some of the Principal Events of the Reigns of Henry VIII and Edward VI,
 trans. Martin A. Sharp Hume (London: George Bell and Sons, 1889), 75.

75. William Thomas, 
The Pilgrim: A Dialogue on the Life and Actions of King Henry the Eighth,
 ed. J. A. Froude (London: Parker, Son, and Bourne, 1861), 58.

76. 
L & P,
 vol. 17, January 29, 1542. Item 63.

77. 
CSP Spain,
 vol. 6, pt.1, January 8, 1541. Item 149.

78. 
CSP Spain,
 vol. 6, pt. 2, July 27, 1543. Item 188.

79. “Narrative of the Visit of the Duke de Najera,” ed. F. Madden, in
Archaeologica
 23 (1831), 35.

80. Susan James, 
Kateryn Parr: The Making of a Queen.
 Aldershot: Ashgate, 1999, 127.

81. 
CSP Venice,
 vol. 4, August 25, 1531. Item 682.

82. 
L&P,
 vol. 16, Oct. 12, 1541. Item 1253.

83. 
CSP Venice,
 vol. 5, August 18, 1554. Item 934.

84. 
CSP Venice,
 vol. 6, pt. 2, May 13, 1557. Item 884.

85. 
Privy Purse Expenses of Princess Mary
, ed. F. Madden (London, 1831), cxlv.

86. 
CSP Venice,
 vol. 6 pt. 2, May 13, 1557. Item 884.

87. Riehl, 32.

88. Ibid., 71.

89. Paul Hentzner, 
A Journey into England in the Year M.D. XC. VIII
 in
Fugitive Pieces, on Various Subjects,
 vol. 2 (London: E. Jeffrey, 1797), 273.

90. See Riehl’s discussion of this report, 60.

91. In addition to Riehl, ch. 2, see Karim-Cooper and Phillippy; also Frances Dolan, “Taking the Pencil Out of God’s Hand: Art, Nature, and the Face-Painting Debate in Early Modern England,” 
Publications
of the Modern Language Association of America
 108, no. 2 (March, 1993), 224–39 and Annette Drew-Bear, 
Painted Faces on the Renaissance
Stage: The Moral Significance of Face Painting Conventions
 (London and Toronto: Associated University Presses, 1994).

92. Frieda, 217.

93. See Carole Levin, 
The Heart and Stomach of A King: Elizabeth I and the Politics of Sex and Power
 (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1994) and Louis Montrose, 
The Subject of Elizabeth: Authority, Gender, and Representation
 (Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press, 2006).

94. A. Labanoff, 
Lettres, Instructions et Mémoires de Marie Stuart,
 1844, cited in Jane Dunn,
Elizabeth and Mary: Cousins, Rivals, Queens
 (New York: Vintage, 2005), 68.

95. 
CSP Scotland,
 February 21, 1563.

96. Qtd. in John Guy, 
The True Life of Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots
 (Boston, MA: Houghton Mifflin, 2004), 430.

97. George Buchanan, 
The History of Scotland
, 2 vols. (London: 1583).

98. 
CSP Scotland,
 November 2, 1562.

99. James Melville, 
Memoirs of His Own Life.
 Reprint (London: Chapman & Dodd, 1922, 55.

100. Henry Chettle, 
England’s Mourning Garment; Worne Here by Plaine Shepheards, in Memorie of Their Sacred Mistresses, Elizabeth, Queene of Vertue While She Liued, and Theame of Sorrow Being Dead
 (London: 1683).

101. John Clapham, 
Elizabeth of England: Certain Observations Concerning the Life and Reign of Queen Elizabeth,
 eds. Evelyn Plummer Read and Conyers Read (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1951), 86.

102. D’Aulnoy, “The Blue Bird,” in Macdonnell, 31–58.

103. Montrose, 244. See also Catherine Loomis on Elizabeth Southwell’s account of the queen’s death and her relationship to mirrors in 
The
Death of Elizabeth I: Remembering and Reconstructing the Virgin Queen
(New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2010), 83–118.

6 The Queen’s Wardrobe: Dressing the Part

1. Marie-Catherine d’Aulnoy, “Gracieuse and Percinet,” in 
The Fairy Tales of Madame d’Aulnoy,
 trans. Annie Macdonell (London: Lawrence and Bullen, 1892), 1–18.

2. Charles Perrault, “Cinderella,” in 
The Great Fairy Tale Tradition,
ed. Jack Zipes (New York: W. W. Norton and Company, 2001), 449–54.

3. Ruth Bottigheimer,
Fairy Tale Godfather: Straparola, Venice, and the
Fairy Tale Tradition
 (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 11.

4. Perrault, “Donkeyskin,” in Zipes, 38–46.

5. Philip Lewis,
Seeing Through the Mother Goose Tales: Visual Turns in the
Writing of Charles Perrault
 (Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press, 1996),163.

6. Max Lüthi,
The Fairy Tale as Art Form and Portrait of Man,
 trans. Jon Erickson (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1984), 17.

7. Carol Scott, “Magical Dress: Clothing and Transformation in Folk Tales,”
Children’s Literature Association Quarterly
 21, no. 4 (1996–97), 151–57.

8. Maria Tatar,
The Hard Facts of the Grimms’ Fairy Tales,
 2nd ed. (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2003), 118.

9. Aimee Bender’s short story, “The Color Master,” is a fantastic prequel to Perrault’s “Donkey-Skin.” Bender’s motivation for writing the story: “I read ‘Donkey-Skin’ many times as a kid, and what I loved most were those dresses. Inside an unsettling, provocative story— the king marrying his daughter?—was the universe revealed in fabric. What would it look like, a dress the color of the moon?” in 
My Mother
She Killed Me, My Father She Ate Me,
 ed. Kate Bernheimer (New York: Penguin Books, 2010), 366–85.

10. D’Aulnoy, “Finette Cendron,” in Zipes, 454–67.

11. D’Aulnoy, “The Blue Bird,” in Macdonell, 31–58.

12. D’Aulnoy, “The Ram,” in Zipes, 31–58.

13. Camden, William, 
The History of the Most Renowned and Victorious Princess Elizabeth, Late Queen of England...During Her Long and Prosperous Reign,
 3rd ed. (London: B. Fisher, 1625), 205–06.

14. Recent scholarship on clothing in the early modern period is extensive. See Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass, 
Renaissance Clothing
and the Materials of Memory
 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2001). Also Carlo Marco Belfanti, “The Civilization of Fashion: At the Origins of a Western Social Institution,” 
Journal of Social History
43, no. 2 (Winter 2009), 261–83; Maria Hayward, 
Dress at the Court of
Henry VIII: The Wardrobe Book
 (London, Maney Publishing, 2007);
The Culture of Cloth in Early Modern England
, ed. Rose Hentschell (Aldershot, UK: Ashgate, 2008); Beverly Lamire and Giorgio Riello, “East and West: Textiles and Fashion in Early Modern Europe,”
Journal of Social History
 41, no. 4 (Summer 2008), 887–916; Linda Levy Peck, 
Costuming Splendor: Society and Culture in Seventeenth
Century England
 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005);
Clothing Culture,1350–1650
, ed. Catherine Richardson. (Aldershot, UK: Ashgate, 2004); Daniel Roche, 
The Culture of Clothing:
 
Dress
and Fashion in the Ancien Régime
 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1997); Susan Vincent, 
The Anatomy of Fashion: Dressing the Body
from the Renaissance to Today
 (New York: Berg Publishers, 2010).

15. Jones and Stallybrass, 2.

16. On sumptuary legislation, see Jane Ashelford, 
Dress in the Age of
Elizabeth
 (New York: Holmes & Meier, 1988); Amanda Bailey, “ ‘Monstrous Manner’: Style and the Early Modern Theater,” 
Criticism
43 no. 3 (Summer 2001), 249–84; Maria Hayward, 
Rich Apparel:
Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII’s England
 (Burlington: Ashgate, 2009); Wilfrid Hooper, “The Tudor Sumptuary Laws,” 
English
Historical Review
 30, no. 119 ( July 1915), 433–49; Alan Hunt, 
Governance
 
of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law
 (New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1996); Gilles Lipovetsky, 
The Empire of Fashion:
Dressing Modern Democracy
 (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1994).