Authors: Ann Budd
Work short-rows to shape heel as foll:
Row 1:
(RS) K17 (22), ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2:
(WS) Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3:
Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap formed on previous row, ssk (1 st from each side of gap), k1, turn.
Row 4:
Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap formed on previous row, p2tog (1 st from each side of gap), p1, turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked—18 (22) heel sts rem.
Pick up sts along selvedge edges of heel flap and rejoin for working in the rnd as foll:
Rnd 1:
With Needle 1, k18 (22) heel sts then pick up and knit 16 (21) sts along edge of heel flap; with Needle 2, work across 30 (40) instep sts in patt as established; with Needle 3, pick up and knit 16 (21) sts along other edge of heel flap then knit the first 9 (11) heel sts from Needle 1 again—80 (104) sts total; 25 (32) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 30 (40) instep sts on Needle 2. Rnd begins at center of heel.
Rnd 2:
On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, work in patt as established; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 3:
Cont in patt as established (work sts on Needle 2 in patt from chart; work sts on Needle 1 and Needle 3 in St st).
Rep Rnds 2 and 3 until 60 (80) sts rem.
Cont even in patt as established until piece measures about 6 (7½)" (15 [19] cm) from back of heel, or about 1½ (2)" (3.8 [5] cm) less than desired total foot length.
Work in St st as foll:
Rnd 1:
On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end—4 sts dec’d.
Rnd 2:
Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 until 32 (40) sts rem. Rep Rnd 1
every
rnd until 12 (16) sts rem. Knit the sts on Needle 1 onto the end of Needle 3—6 (8) sts each on 2 needles.
Cut yarn, leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) tail. Thread tail on a tapestry needle and use the Kitchener st (see Glossary,
page 123
) to graft sts tog. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.
from the Spring 1997 issue of
Interweave Knits
Nancy Bush
On her first visit to Estonia, Nancy Bush received a pair of lacy socks from her friend Meida Joeveer, who explained how she had made them. Nancy studied the socks and has reproduced them here. Alternating slipped stitches on every right-side row produces a reinforced heel flap with a honeycomb rather than the usual rib, which continues into the turning of the heel. The only change from the original pattern is a wedge toe, with decreases worked every other round to add length to the foot. The remaining eight toe stitches are drawn up into a “rosebud.”
About 7½" (19 cm) foot circumference and 9½" (24 cm) foot length. To fit a woman.
Note:
To make the socks larger or smaller, use needles one or two sizes larger or smaller and lengthen or shorten the foot as necessary.
Sportweight yarn (CYCA #2 Fine).
Shown here:
Stahl Wolle Olé (51% cotton, 49% wool; 125 yd (115m)/50 g): #1604 cream, 2 balls (3 balls if you lengthen the socks).
Note:
This yarn has been discontinued; substitute the sportweight yarn of your choice.
Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Marker (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
11 stitches and 16 rows = 2" (5 cm) in stockinette stitch worked in the round.
In Estonia, where cable needles are not common, the cable action is performed on the four stitches (numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4, with stitch #1 closest to the left needle point and stitch #4 the farthest away) as follows: Put the right needle into the back of #3 and #4. Pull the left needle out of all 4 sts, leaving #1 and #2 in mid air for a moment. Place #2, then #1 on the left needle, then place #4, then #3 onto the left needle. Knit #3 and #4, then put the right needle into the back of #2 (now in #4's original position) and slip the left needle out of #2 and #1, just as you did with #3 and #4 before. Stitch #1 will be in mid air for a moment. Place #1 then #2 on the left needle and knit each of them.
Loosely CO 72 sts. Divide sts evenly on 4 dpn (18 sts per needle), place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Work Rnds 1–6 of Lace chart 6 times.
K18, turn work, sl 1, p35—36 heel sts centered over back of leg; rem 36 sts will be worked later for instep. Work 36 heel sts back and forth in rows as foll:
Row 1:
(RS) *Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back (wyb), k1; rep from *.
Rows 2 and 4:
(WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), p35.
Row 3:
Sl 1 kwise wyb, *sl 1 kwise wyb, k1; rep from *, end k2.
Rep Rows 1–4 for a total of 40 rows—20 chain sts along each selvedge edge of heel flap.
Work short-rows to shape heel as foll:
Row 1:
(RS) *Sl 1 kwise wyb, k1; rep from * across 22 sts, ssk, turn work.
Row 2:
(WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p8, p2tog, turn.
Row 3:
Sl 1 kwise wyb, work 8 sts in established heel patt, ssk, turn.
Row 4:
Sl 1 pwise wyf, p8, p2tog, turn. Rep Rows 3 and 4, keeping in established patt, until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a WS row—10 sts rem.
Pick up sts along selvedge edges of heel flap and rejoin for working in the rnd as foll:
Rnd 1:
On Needle 1, sl 1 pwise wyb, k9, pick up and knit 22 sts along right edge of heel flap; on Needle 2, work 18 sts according to Row 1 of chart as established; on Needle 3, work 18 sts according to Row 1 of chart as established; on Needle 4, pick up and knit 22 sts along left edge of heel flap then work first 5 heel sts from Needle 1 again—90 sts total; 27 sts on Needle 1; 18 sts each on Needle 2 and Needle 3; 27 sts on Needle 4.
Rnd 2:
On Needle 1, work to last 2 sts, k2tog; on Needle 2 and Needle 3, work as established; on Needle 4, ssk, work to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 3:
Work even in pattern.
Rep the last two rnds 12 times more—64 sts rem; 14 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 4, 18 sts each on Needle 2 and Needle 3.
Cont as established, working instep sts as charted and sole sts in St st, until a total of 14 patt reps have been worked from CO—piece should measure about 7" (18 cm) from back of heel.
Adjust sts by placing the first 2 sts from Needle 2 onto Needle 1 and the last 2 sts from Needle 3 onto Needle 4—16 sts on each needle.