to Hawaii was a turning point, destined, as Stoddard put it, "to influence the whole current of my life" (CRP).
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Charles was enchanted with the tropical kingdom of Hawaii. In the balminess of its climate, the sweep of its seashore, and the beauty of its flowers and people, it was to San Francisco as, some years before, San Francisco had been to New York State. A visitor to Honolulu about this time described the city as almost overwhelming in its lush and exotic foliage: "over-arching trees, through whose dense leafage the noon sunshine only trickled in dancing, broken lights; umbrella trees, caoutchouc, bamboo, mango, orange, breadfruit, candlenut. monkey pod, date and coco palms, alligator pears, 'prides' of Barbary, India, and Peru, and huge-leaved, wide-spreading trees, exotics from the South Seas, many of them rich in parasitic ferns, and others blazing with bright, fantastic blossoms." The people of Honolulu were just as colorful and picturesque:
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| | Such rich brown men and women they were, with wavy, shining black hair, large, brown, lustrous eyes, and rows of perfect teeth like ivory. Everyone was smiling. . . . Without an exception, the men and women wore wreaths and garlands of flowers, carmine, orange, or pure white, twined round their hats, and thrown carelessly round their necks. . . . Chinamen . . . "foreigners," half-whites, a few negroes, and a very few dark-skinned Polynesians from the far-off South Seas, made up the rest of the rainbow-tinted crowd. 1
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At first Charles was content to soak up such atmosphere in hopes of regaining the serenity he had lost at Brayton Academy. He spent days lounging in a hammock at the home of family friends who lived two miles from Honolulu in the Nuuannu Valley. Ada Clare's coming to town provided a pleasant distraction, but Charles was lonely enough to recall his life at Brayton Hall "with a touch of tenderness that verged dangerously upon the romantic." There had been an "emotional parting with certain of my school fellows," and during the next months he wrote them "a bag full of sentimental letters" (CRP). One, apparently written to a spellbinding friend, if not the ''Spell-binder," asked plaintively: "Have you entirely forgotten a fellow? Are there no reminiscences of bygones wherein I figure?" For Charles there were memories:
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