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Authors: Rachael Herron

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Ruby’s Bookstore Sweater

Finished Measurements

For more detailed photos, go to yarnagogo.com/rubysweater.

Bust: 34 (38, 42, 44, 48, 52) inches

Length: 23¼ (23½, 24, 24¼, 25, 25¼) inches

Gauge:
18 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in Stockinette stitch

Materials

Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Worsted wool, 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins

One US #7 (4.5mm) 12-inch circular needle or set of DPNs (or size to get gauge)

One US #7 (4.5mm) 32-inch (or longer) circular needle (or size to get gauge)

Once US #G (4mm) crochet hook

4 stitch markers

Stitch holders or scrap yarn

Yarn needle

Sleeves—Make two

Using shorter circular needle or DPNs and a long-tail cast-on, cast on 52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) stitches. PM and join to work in the round.

Round 1:
Purl.

Round 2:
Knit.

Round 3:
Purl.

Increase Round:
K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1 – 2 stitches increased.

Continue in Stockinette stitch (knit every round) and repeat Increase Round every 6 rounds 7 more times—68 (72, 76, 80, 84, 88) stitches.

Work even until sleeve measures 7 inches from beginning (fudge last increases if necessary, as Eliza would). At end of last round, work to 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) stitches before marker, slip 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16) stitches onto scrap yarn for underarm. Put the rest of stitches onto stitch holder (or second piece of longer scrap yarn).

Body

Using longer circular needle and a long-tail cast-on, cast on 152 (168, 188, 196, 216, 232) stitches.

Row 1 (RS):
Knit 38 (42, 47, 49, 54, 58) stitches, PM, knit 76 (84, 94, 98, 108, 116) stitches, PM, knit 38 (42, 47, 49, 54, 58) stitches.

Row 2:
Knit.

Row 3:
Knit.

Row 4:
Purl.

Begin pattern:

Row 1 (RS):
Knit.

Row 2:
K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 4 inches from beginning.

Waist Shaping

Decrease Row (RS):
* Knit to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk; repeat from * once, knit to end of row—4 stitches decreased.

Keeping first and last 2 stitches in Garter stitch as established, repeat Decrease Row every 6 rows 3 more times—136 (152, 172, 180, 200, 216) stitches remain.

Work even for 7 rows.

Increase Row (RS):
* Knit to 1 stitch before marker, M1, k1, slip marker, k1, M1; repeat from * once, knit to end of row—4 stitches increased.

Repeat Increase Row every 8 rows 3 more times—152 (168, 188, 196, 216, 232) stitches.

Work even until piece measures 14½ inches from beginning or adjust to your preferred length.

Join Sleeves to Body

With RS facing, work across right front to 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) stitches before marker, slip 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16) stitches onto scrap yarn for underarm. Continuing to work body and sleeves in pattern, PM and work across 58 (60, 64, 66, 70, 72) stitches from first sleeve holder, PM, work across back of sweater to 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) stitches before marker, slip 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16) stitches onto scrap yarn for underarm. PM and work across 58 (60, 64, 66, 70, 72) stitches from second sleeve holder, PM, work across the left front to end of row—248 (264, 292, 300, 328, 344) stitches.

Keeping first and last 2 stitches in Garter stitch, work even for one inch.

Raglan Decreases

Decrease Row (RS):
* Knit to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end of row—8 stitches decreased.

Repeat Decrease Row every other row, 26 (27, 29, 30, 32, 33) more times—32 (40, 52, 52, 64, 72) stitches remain. (4 stitches remain in each sleeve section.)

Collar

Work in Garter stitch (knit every row) for 5 inches. Bind off all stitches loosely.

Finishing

Graft (kitchener stitch) underarms together.

Crochet Edging

Body crochet edge: With US #G (4mm) crochet hook (or size that suits you best) work around the sweater, beginning at the mid lower edge back:

Round 1: 1 sc, * 1 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 sc in the following st/row *, repeat from *-* all around sweater. Bonus points if the number of ch-loops are divisible by 8, but you can fudge this later if necessary.

Round 2: Crochet * 1 sc in the first ch, skip 3 ch, crochet 5 dc in the next ch, skip 3 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in the sc from beg. of round.

Sleeve crochet edge: Work the same as body crocheted edge.

List of Abbreviations

ch—Chain

dc—Double crochet

DPNs—Double-point needles

K—Knit

k2tog—Knit two together (decrease stitch)

M1—Make one stitch (increase stitch) by knitting in front and back of stitch

P—Purl

PM—Place marker

sc—Single crochet

sl st—Slip stitch

ssk—Slip two stitches, one at a time, as if to knit, then knit those two stitches together through the back loops (decrease stitch)

This book is a work of fiction. The characters, incidents, and dialogue are drawn from the author’s imagination and are not to be construed as real. Any resemblance to actual events or persons, living or dead, is entirely coincidental.

HOW TO KNIT A HEART BACK HOME.
Copyright © 2011 by Rachael Herron. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

FIRST EDITION

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
    Herron, Rachael.
      How to knit a heart back home : a Cypress Hollow yarn / Rachael Herron. —
      1st ed.
        p. cm.
      ISBN 978-0-06-184131-6
      1. Knitters (Persons)—Fiction. 2. Knitting—Fiction. I. Title.
    PS3608.E7765H66 2010
    813'.6—dc22

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