Imperial (249 page)

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Authors: William T. Vollmann

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346

I have been told that this knowledge is guarded with certain migrant worker families.

347

United States Immigration and Naturalization Service.

348

Between 2000 and 2020, Mexicali’s population is expected to double again.

349

Speaking of breathing, I read that lettuce salinity experiments “cannot be conclusively done in close proximity to Riverside because the smog negates the scientific validity of the finds.”

350

In 2002 there were almost twelve thousand vehicles on Highway 111. The Department of Transportation expected that number to double in the next twenty years.

351

“ ‘Things are moving very rapidly,’ said Oscar Rodriguez, the city’s director of economic development. ‘There is a significant amount of economic development underway,’ he said.”

352

Dashiell Hammett, 1924: “You hear now and then of detectives who have not become callous, who have not lost what you might call the human touch. I always feel sorry for them . . .”

353

When the connections are good. It sometimes takes eighteen or longer.

354

For example, George Wharton James in his opus of 1911 reins it in by San Gorgonio Pass to the northwest, Mounts San Gorgonio and San Jacinto to the northeast, the line between San Bernardino and Riverside counties as the northern boundary generally, the Colorado River to the east, the Mexican border to the south, and the San Jacinto range to the west. “That it extends beyond the Colorado River into Arizona, and also below the boundary line into Mexico, all are well aware, but I shall practically ignore these extensions in the following pages.” A botanist proposes that the Colorado Desert is really a representative subset of the Sonoran Desert.

355

Scientists gave it this awkward name to distinguish it from the Valley Lower Sonoran Life Zone northwestward of it.

356

There are place-scraps of pseudo-Imperial to be found as far north as Sacramento: worn, flat sandy patches at the railroad yards, freckled by low grey grass; and over here’s a freeway; the sky’s hot and pale; by all means, I say to myself, this could be Imperial; but then when I’m back in Imperial itself, where everything is so much hotter and brighter, I realize how weakly my memory can hold an image, so that even a watered-down (literally, for Sacramento has two rivers), cooler, generally diminished approximation convinces me.

357

As it happens, every part of the U.S. sector of Imperial lies within the former San Diego County, which included all of the present Imperial County, almost all of the counties of Riverside and San Bernardino, and some of Inyo County.

358

The word “American” excites considerable exasperation on the part of Mexicans, Canadians and other inhabitants of the American continent. Unfortunately, we have no other term for ourselves which is not either pedantic or rude.

359

Nor does anybody else. José López from Jalisco believed that the Mexicali Valley extended “all the way to San Luis Colorado,” but he didn’t know how far south it went. José the crackhead from Mexicali claimed the entire Baja Pensinsula. Nor were their delineations the only ones.

360

Here is a mid-nineteenth-century observer’s description of that water: “Near the mouth of the Rio Colorado . . . a wild and somewhat interesting scene opens . . . The general aspect, however, is far from pleasing. There is such a vastness of monotonous desolation; so dry, so blistered with volcanic fires; so forbidding to the wants of thirsting and hungering men; that one gladly turns his eye upon the water, the
mar de Cortez . . .

361

Since writing this, I picked up a book called
Salt Dreams
and found it devoted to exactly the same territory, excluding only the border strip to the Pacific. The entity I call Imperial coheres within more gazes than mine.

362

Whether or not this is the actual publisher is unclear. It appears on both the front cover and the spine, but in each case as a caption to the coat of arms of Mexicali.

Table of Contents

Title Page

Copyright Page

Epigraph

Dedication

PART ONE - INTRODUCTIONS

Chapter 1 - THE GARDENS OF PARADISE (1999)

Chapter 2 - DELINEATIONS (2000)

Chapter 3 - THE WATER OF LIFE (2001)

Chapter 4 - SUBDELINEATIONS: LOVESCAPES (2001)

Chapter 5 - THE WIDEMOUTHED PIPE (2002)

Chapter 6 - THEN AND NOW (1844-2002)

Chapter 7 - THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DITCH (1519-2005)

Chapter 8 - SIGN OF SLOW GROWTH SENDS STOCKS LOWER (2002)

Chapter 9 - WATER IS HERE (1849-2002)

Chapter 10 - PREFACE (2002-2003)

Chapter 11 - SUBDELINEATIONS: BOOKSCAPES (1850-2003)

Chapter 12 - THE GARDENS OF PARADISE (2007)

PART TWO - OUTLINES

Chapter 13 - WHEN BREAD WAS LIGHT (1768-1848)

Chapter 14 - LOS ANGELES (1780)

Chapter 15 - LOS ANGELES (1781)

Chapter 16 - TÍA JUANA (1825)

Chapter 17 - TECATE (1830)

Chapter 18 - LOS ANGELES (1845)

Chapter 19 - WEST OF THE RIVER (1803)

Chapter 20 - DRAWING THE LINE (1803-1848)

Chapter 21 - RANCH SIZE (1800-1850)

Chapter 22 - MEXICO (1821-1911)

Chapter 23 - THE LINE ITSELF (1844-1911)

Chapter 24 - LOS ANGELES (1850)

Chapter 25 - LOST MINES (1849-2005)

Chapter 26 - WHITE EYELASHES (1853-1926)

Chapter 27 - COLONEL COUTS’S HOMESTEAD (1839-ca. 1915)

Chapter 28 - THE INDIANS DO ALL THE HARD WORK (1769-1906)

Chapter 29 - THE INLAND EMPIRE (1860-1882)

Chapter 30 - SUBDELINEATIONS: WATERSCAPES (1850-1900)

Chapter 31 - THEIR NEEDS ARE EASILY SATISFIED (1871-1906)

Chapter 32 - LOS ANGELES (1875)

Chapter 33 - THE SECOND LINE (1893)

Chapter 34 - THE DIRECT GAZE OF THE CONFIDENT MAN (1900)

Chapter 35 - ADVERTISEMENT OF SALE (2002)

Chapter 36 - IMPERIAL TOWNS (1877-1910)

Chapter 37 - THE BOOMERS (1880-1912)

Chapter 38 - CONTINUED FROM PAGE A1 (2003)

Chapter 39 - LOS ANGELES (1900)

Chapter 40 - THE IMPERIAL IDEA (1901-2004)

Chapter 41 - WILBER CLARK’S HOMESTEAD (1901-2005)

Chapter 42 - MEXICALI (1904-1905)

Chapter 43 - THE SWEET YOUNG NIGHT (2002)

Chapter 44 - IMPERIAL’S CENTER (1904-1907)

Chapter 45 - THE THIRD LINE (1907)

Chapter 46 - SUBDELINEATIONS: PAINTSCAPES (1903-1970)

Chapter 47 - IMPERIAL REPRISE (1781-1920)

PART THREE - REVISIONS

Chapter 48 - FUTURES (1883-2007)

Chapter 49 - HARRY CHANDLER’S HOMESTEAD (1898-1938)

Chapter 50 - PRACTICALLY SELF-SUPPORTING IN THREE YEARS (1865-2004)

Chapter 51 - THE EJIDOS (1903-2005)

Chapter 52 - IMPERIAL REPRISE (1901—2006)

PART FOUR - FOOTNOTES

Chapter 53 - WHAT I WISH I KNEW ABOUT MELOLAND (1907—1998)

Chapter 54 - SAN DIEGO (1769-1925)

Chapter 55 - IN MEMORIAM, IMPERIAL HAZEL DEED (1905-2002)

Chapter 56 - STOLID OF FACE AND LANGUID (1901-2003)

Chapter 57 - THE DAYS OF LUPE VÁSQUEZ (2003)

Chapter 58 - “LUPE IS LUCKIER” The Days of José López from Jalisco (2003)

Chapter 59 - IMPERIAL REPRISE (1905-2003)

PART FIVE - ELABORATIONS

Chapter 60 - THE LINE ITSELF (1895-1926)

Chapter 61 - THE FIRST COYOTE (1895-1926)

Chapter 62 - THE FIRST HOBO (1901)

Chapter 63 - TWENTY THOUSAND IN 1920 (1906-1922)

Chapter 64 - COACHELLA WAITS (1912-1917)

Chapter 65 - CITY OF IMPERIAL (1925)

Chapter 66 - THEIR NEEDS ARE EVEN MORE EASILY SATISFIED (1893-1927)

Chapter 67 - NEGROES AND MEXICANS FOR COTTON (1901-1930)

Chapter 68 - MEXICANS GETTING UGLY (1911-1926)

Chapter 69 - THE NEXT STEP (ca. 1925)

Chapter 70 - EL CENTRO (1925)

Chapter 71 - MEXICALI (1925)

Chapter 72 - VOLSTEAD (1919-1933)

Chapter 73 - THE CHINESE TUNNELS (1849-2003)

Chapter 74 - INDIO (1925)

Chapter 75 - THE INLAND EMPIRE (1925)

Chapter 76 - LOS ANGELES (1925)

Chapter 77 - TAMERLANE’S WARRIORS GALLOP INTO THE SQUARE (1924-2003)

Chapter 78 - SUBDELINEATIONS: WATERSCAPES (1901-1925)

Chapter 79 - THE MEXICAN USER IS A CUSTOMER, NOT AN OWNER (1904-1918)

Chapter 80 - MARKET PRICES (1925)

Chapter 81 - SAN DIEGO (1925)

Chapter 82 - THE LONG DEATH OF ALBERT HENRY LARSON (1903-1926)

Chapter 83 - SUBDELINEATIONS: SCROLLSCAPES (1611-2004)

Chapter 84 - IMPERIAL REPRISE (1901-1929)

PART SIX - SUBPLOTS

Chapter 85 - ALMOST AS EFFICIENTLY AS WASHING MACHINES (1891-1936)

Chapter 86 - SUBDELINEATIONS: LETTUCESCAPES (1922-1975)

Chapter 87 - THE NIGHTS OF LUPE VÁSQUEZ (2003)

Chapter 88 - IMPERIAL REPRISE (1891-2003)

PART SEVEN - CONTRADICTIONS

Chapter 89 - CREDIT WILL BE RESTORED (1929-1939)

Chapter 90 - MARKET PRICES (1919-1931)

Chapter 91 - IN A STILL MORE ADVANTAGEOUS POSITION (1928-1942)

Chapter 92 - THERE IS EVEN EVIDENCE OF A SMALL FRUIT ORCHARD (1931-2005)

Chapter 93 - COACHELLA’S SHARE (1918-1948)

Chapter 94 - SUBDELINEATIONS: WATERSCAPES (1925-1950)

Chapter 95 - THE LINE ITSELF (1927-1950)

Chapter 96 - DIFFERENT FROM ANYTHING I’D EVER KNOWN (1933-1950)

Chapter 97 - FARM SIZE (1910-1944)

Chapter 98 - THE LINE ITSELF: JAPANESE ADDENDUM (1941-1945)

Chapter 99 - BROAD AND SINISTER MOTIVES (1928-1946)

Chapter 100 - BUTTER CREAM BREAD (ca. 1936)

Chapter 101 - COACHELLA (1936-1950)

Chapter 102 - HAVE YOU EVER SEEN A FLAX FIELD IN BLOOM? (1940s)

Chapter 103 - THE DAYS OF CARMEN CARILLO AND SUSANA CAUDILLO (2003)

Chapter 104 - IMPERIAL REPRISE (1754-1940)

PART EIGHT - RESERVATIONS

Chapter 105 - A DEFINITIVE INTERPRETATION OF THE BLYTHE INTAGLIOS (ca. 13,000 B.C.-2006)

Chapter 106 - THE ISLAND (2003-2006)

PART NINE - CLIMAXES

Chapter 107 - THE LARGEST IRRIGATED DISTRICT IN THE WORLD (1950)

Chapter 108 - THERE WAS ALWAYS FOOD ON THE TABLE (1950s)

Chapter 109 - COACHELLA (1950)

Chapter 110 - RIVERSIDE (1950)

Chapter 111 - MARKET PRICES (1950)

Chapter 112 - CROP REPORTS (1946-1957)

Chapter 113 - CANTALOUPE ANXIETIES (1958)

Chapter 114 - THE BRACEROS (1942-1965)

Chapter 115 - OPERATION WETBACK (1954-1955)

Chapter 116 - MEXICALI (1950)

Chapter 117 - SUBDELINEATIONS: COTTONSCAPES (1796-2007)

Chapter 118 - SAN LUIS RÍO DE COLORADO (ca. 1968)

Chapter 119 - CERTIFIED SEED (1959)

Chapter 120 - SUBDELINEATIONS: OCEAN PARKSCAPES (1966-1993)

Chapter 121 - LOS ANGELES (1950)

Chapter 122 - SAN DIEGO (1920-1960)

Chapter 123 - TIJUANA (1966-2065)

Chapter 124 - TECATE (1950)

Chapter 125 - HOLTVILLE (1905-1964)

Chapter 126 - WHAT A COLD STARRY NIGHT USED TO BE LIKE (1949-1989)

Chapter 127 - IMPERIAL REPRISE (ca. 1950-2066)

PART TEN - DISSOLUTIONS

Chapter 128 - PROBABLY THE WEATHER (2002-2003)

Chapter 129 - FROM TEN GALS DOWN TO THREE (1914-2004)

Chapter 130 - YOU CAN’T PRODUCE THINGS THE WAY YOU USED TO (2003-2004)

Chapter 131 - THE AZTECS ARE BACK (2004)

Chapter 132 - THE LINE ITSELF (1950-2006)

Chapter 133 - FARM SIZE (1950-2006)

Chapter 134 - WE NOW WORRY ABOUT THE SALE OF THE FRUIT COCKTAIL IN EUROPE (1948-2003)

Chapter 135 - THE WATER FARMERS (1951-2003)

Chapter 136 - COACHELLA (1975)

Chapter 137 - THE IMPERIAL IDEA (1950-2000)

Chapter 138 - IT SEEMS LIKE THE MONEY IS BEING TAKEN BY SOMEBODY (2003)

Chapter 139 - CHÁVEZ’S GRAPES (1962-2006)

Chapter 140 - SUBDELINEATIONS: WATERSCAPES (1950-1975)

Chapter 141 - WELLTON-MOHAWK (1961)

Chapter 142 - SUBDELINEATIONS: POISONSCAPES (1888-2003)

Chapter 143 - THE SALTON SEA (1944-1986)

Chapter 144 - MARKET PRICES (1975)

Chapter 145 - SAN DIEGO (1975)

Chapter 146 - MEXICALI (1975)

Chapter 147 - “THE LANGUAGE SEEMS TO BELONG SO TO THIS COUNTRY” (ca. 1960-2003)

Chapter 148 - LOS ANGELES (1975)

Chapter 149 - EL CENTRO (1975)

Chapter 150 - THE INLAND EMPIRE (1875-2004)

Chapter 151 - SUBDELINEATIONS: ORANGESCAPES (or, “It Could Be Called Ambrosia I ...

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