India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (119 page)

1 Kochi (Cochin)

1,080km (670 miles) S of Mumbai

Kerala

Kochi is not the capital of Kerala, but it is a great deal more charming than Trivandrum, and, blessed with a good airport and infrastructure, is for many the ideal gateway to the state. In fact, this has been the case since 1341, the year nature carved out Kochi’s harbor with a massive flood, and the city became the first port of call for Arabs, Chinese, and, finally, European sea merchants, who sailed for barter into what came to be known as the “Queen of the Arabian Sea.”

Lured by the promise of pepper, the Portuguese under Vasco da Gama arrived in 1500, and the Franciscan friars who accompanied the explorer Pedro Alvarez Cabral established a church and set about converting the locals. By 1553, the Maharaja of Kochi had granted permission for the construction of the first European fort in India, and what had been an obscure fishing hamlet became India’s first European settlement. In 1663, Kochi fell to the Dutch, and 132 years later, to the British. Each of these foreign influences left their mark, resulting in a distinctly Indo-European culture, most evident in the architecture.

Today, Kochi (or Cochin, as it was formerly known) comprises three distinct areas.
Old Kochi,
comprising the down-at-heel but wonderfully atmospheric Mattancherry and its more pristine neighbor, Fort Kochi, lie on one of two peninsular arms that shield the Kochi harbor, and hold the most historical interest. Opposite it, on the mainland that creates the eastern peninsula, lies modern
Ernakulam.
Between the two are islands, now well connected by bridges, including
Willingdon Island.

Fort Kochi, the oldest European settlement in India, retains an old-world charm. Although it has now largely been given over to tourism, the town’s heritage buildings and broad, peaceful streets make this the preferred place to overnight. Its battlements no longer stand, but the combination of Portuguese, Dutch, Jewish, British, and local influences is evident in the tiled, steep-roofed bungalows that line its quaint streets, and it’s home to the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth. From here Mattancherry, with its wonderful warehouses filled with antiques and trinkets, is a short rickshaw drive away. Plan to spend 2 nights in Kochi, enjoying its charming atmosphere and low-key sights at a lazy, relaxed pace. Take in a Kathakali
performance, dig into the delectable seafood, enjoy a romantic sunset cruise around the harbor, and, if you’re at all interested in bargain-priced antiques, get ready to wade through stores packed with unexpected curiosities.

Kochi (Cochin), Willingdon Island & Ernakulam

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION
Kerala
(
www.keralatourism.org
) has the best tourism organization in India, starting with a helpful
Airport Information Counter
(
0484/261-0115
), usually open for all arrivals.

GETTING THERE & AWAY
By Air
Cochin International Airport
(
0484/261-0115
) is one of India’s best. It’s located alongside National Highway 47, in Nedumbassery, which is 42km (26 miles) from the historic heart of Fort Kochi. There are flights to and from most major centers in India; international flights are mostly from the Middle East, including Dubai, Singapore, and Sri Lanka

A prepaid taxi service into the city is available at the airport; transfers to Fort Kochi should cost Rs 695. A better plan is to e-mail or call
Kerala Adventures
(
94-4703-5627
or 0484/231-3744; [email protected]) with your flight details a few days in advance, and have a driver waiting for you on arrival; price for a non-A/C car is Rs 725; with A/C Rs 1,010.

By Train
Kochi is well connected by rail to almost every part of India. Some of the journeys can be long and grueling, however, so check on times, or opt for train travel only within Kerala. Departing from Delhi, the biweekly (Tues and Sat)
Trivandrum Rajdhani
makes its way to Kozhikode, Kochi, and Trivandrum; this is one of the best connections in Kerala—some of the journey is very scenic but it’s a punishing 48 hours if you start from Delhi. For schedules, see
www.indianrail.gov.in
. Again, with prior notice,
Kerala Adventures
(see above) will pick you up from the station.

Kochi has two principal commuter railway stations:
Ernakulam Town Station
(
0484/239-0920
or -5198) and
Ernakulam Junction
(
0484/237-5429
or -5131). The
computerized reservations office
is at the Junction Railway Station (Mon–Sat 8am–2pm and 2:15–8pm; Sun 8am–2pm). For reservations, call
132;
for status of current reservations, call
1316.