India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (155 page)
Vanilla County
Deep in plantation country, this is an absolutely authentic homestay in a 60-year-old bungalow, and a place to experience true, down-to-earth Kerala family life with all the added drama of a naturally awesome setting. Like Paradisa (above), it’s quite far from Periyar (2 hr.; same distance from the Backwaters), so consider it a destination in its own right, where you get beyond the ordinary tourist experience. Bedrooms are spacious, comfortable, and spotless—owners Baby Mathew and Rani (and two children) take great pride in their home and they warmly share it with you. You’ll get to know the ins and outs of their daily lives, learning from them (in the kitchen and the rubber and spice gardens) and exploring local sites with an excellent guide. Head off on hikes where you’ll meet beautifully friendly people, then return to the cooling waters of the estate’s two gorgeous rock pools, or slip into a hammock in the garden, and prepare for one of Rani’s astonishing feasts. Do not forget to sample her unique banana jam at breakfast.
Vagamon Rd., Mavady Estate, Teekoy 686 580.
04822/28-1225
or 04822/32-5397.
http://vanillacounty.in
. 6 units. Rs 7,000 double; Rs 3,000 extra person. Children under 5 free. Rates include all meals, activities, and local transportation. MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining room, lounge; airport transfers (Rs 10/km.); cooking classes (Apr–Sept; Rs 500/dish); Internet (in lounge; free); 2 natural rock pools; yoga (packages available). In room: Fans, no phone.
Finding Serenity Between the Backwaters & the Hills
If you’re traveling between Kochi (or the backwaters) and Periyar, another great spot to stop off for a few days is the aptly named
Serenity
(Payikad, Kanam PO, Vazhoor;0481/245-6353
), which is an excellent place to remove yourself entirely from the beaten track and get a look at Kerala-style country life in a setting that really does feel far away from the tourist bandwagon. Like both Vanilla County and Paradisa, it’s a gorgeous destination in its own right, and definitely worth investigating if you’re taking a more leisurely approach to travel, and prefer to get off the beaten path a bit.
A converted 1920s bungalow in the heart of a rubber plantation, Kanam Estate, it offers six guest rooms, high wood-beam ceilings, polished floors, cane chairs, four-poster beds, traditional masks mounted on display stands, and a gorgeously located pool. You can arrange for Lakshmi, the tame 30-year-old in-house elephant, to come in and play for the day—it costs a whopping 100€ and you only get about 4 full hours of interaction (which includes riding, feeding, and even washing her), but she’s a great hit with kids (and grown-ups, too). Make sure it’s not ceremony or harvest season, when elephants throughout the state are in huge demand and kept busy. If she’s not available, you’ll need to settle for one of the other diversions available here—there are bikes for an independent tour of the nearby villages; guided plantation tours; bullock cart rides (50€); cooking classes; and revitalizing Ayurvedic treatments. And while it’s a great place for families to spend time together, Serenity, as the name suggests, is also a superbly romantic hideaway, or one where you can simply put your feet up and forget about the rest of the world. Reservations are made through
The Malabar House
(0484/221-6666;
www.malabarescapes.com
; doubles 150€–220€) in Kochi.
THE PERIYAR TIGER RESERVE
Originally the hunting grounds of the Maharajah of Travancore, Periyar Tiger Reserve was declared a wildlife reserve (previously called the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary) in 1933. In 1979 it became a Project Tiger Reserve—India’s homegrown initiative to protect the big cats’ dwindling numbers. Today Periyar covers 777 sq. km (2,012 sq. miles), and is divided into core, buffer, and tourist zones. Although tiger sightings are very rare, particularly in the tourist zone (although there was a sighting reported on Dec 26, 2008), the reserve is home to elephants, sloth bears, sambar, gaur (a relative of the water buffalo), dhole (a wild dog), leopards, spotted deer, Malabar giant squirrels (a sighting is likely to be a highlight—they’re huge), barking deer, Nilgiri tahr, and over 300 species of birds. It contains around 1,700 species of flowering plants, including at least 145 different kinds of orchid.
The best way to experience Periyar is with a Periyar Tiger Trail (see “Back to Nature on the Tiger Trail” box below); other than this, all access to the park is cheap, making excursions popular with exuberant domestic tourists who tend to be noisy, which somewhat inhibits one’s enjoyment of natural scenery. Most opt for the 2-hour
boat cruise
on Periyar Lake, from where—if you’re lucky—you can view animals coming to drink at the water’s edge. Unfortunately, you’re more likely to experience nonstop din from children (and their parents) who refuse to obey pleas for silence, preferring to rove around the boat and video each other. There are five boat departures a day, and you’d do well not to be on any of them. Less subscribed are the daily
nature walks
and
green walks;
these 3-hour treks depart at 7am, 10am, and 2pm and cost Rs 100 (maximum five in a group), and provide you with the opportunity to admire some of the stunning flora of the region; better still are the
bamboo rafting
trips in which a maximum of 10 people are taken on a full day’s worth of rafting combined with some trekking (Rs 1,000 per person; 8am–5pm). Check
www.periyartigerreserve.org
for details on these and other adventures such as
jungle patrol
(a nighttime hike; Rs 500), and the
bullock cart discovery,
where you ride through the countryside exploring traditional villages. However you choose to explore the park, remember that temperatures can be freezing from November through February, so pack warm layers.
Note:
Whatever activities you have in mind, you’re better off making all your arrangements through your hotel. Avoid any unsolicited offers from “guides” promising to take you on walks or tours into the reserve; this will only waste your time and test your patience.
Back to Nature on theTiger Trail
By far the most exciting and tranquil way to experience the park is a 2- or 3-day
Periyar Tiger Trail
