India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (194 page)

Under the Skin: Must-Reads

Often a guidebook will provide a great deal more insight into a city than a visit to its tourism bureau.
Ticket Bengaluru
by Roopa Pai (Stark World) and
Love Bengaluru
by Fiona Caulfield (Hardys Bay Publishing) are two such books, dealing respectively with everything that this city offers, from the best dosa joints to the ideal pub hop, coolest buys to trendiest hot spots. While Roopa offers something for everyone across the spectrum, Fiona is clearly speaking to big spenders.

Getting Around
By Auto-Rickshaw & Taxi
Insist that auto-rickshaw drivers use their meters. Generally, the first kilometer will cost Rs 14; each kilometer after that costs Rs 7. After 9pm, drivers will make you pay “one and a half,” or 50% above the recorded fare. You won’t find taxis that you can just hail off the street, but metered
“call taxis”
are available almost all over the city; see our recommendation in “Fast Facts: Bangalore,” below, or ask your hotel for a reputable number. Expect to pay minimum fare of Rs 75 for 3km (2 1⁄2 miles), Rs 12 each additional kilometer, plus extra for waiting and luggage.

With Car & Driver
Less than 4 hours will be charged as per the meter rules mentioned above; Rs 650 is the going rate (at press time) for a 4-hour tour, which will include 40km (25 miles) of free mileage (Rs 14 for every extra kilometer). To hire a car and driver, try
Hertz
(
1800-22-6000
or 099725-02292), which operates around-the-clock, as does
Cel Cabs
(
080/6060-9090
).

Guided Tours & Travel Agents
KSTDC
(address above;
080/2235-2901
) conducts sightseeing tours in the city as well as around the state.
Skyway International Travels
(St. Mark’s Rd.;
080/2211-1401
) and
Marco Polo Tours
(2 Janardhan Towers, Residency Rd.;
080/2221-4438
) are reliable all-arounders. For trekking, get in touch with
www.junglelodges.com
, Karnataka Mountaineering Association (
080/2226-9053
) and
Get Off Ur Ass
(
080/2672-2750;
www.getoffurass.com
) for some unusual trips.
Mystery Trails
(
www.mysterytrails.com
) is a Forest Department initiative specializing in treks within wildlife zones, including Chamarjanagar where the notorious bandit/poacher Veerappan hid for 2 decades. Today it enables local tribal communities to learn and earn at the same time.

Side Trip to Gokarna: Discovering the Universe within at Om Beach

Often cited as the top beach in India,
Om Beach
lies near Karnataka’s important pilgrimage town of Gokarna—about 3 hours south of Goa’s Dabolim Airport. Black rocks divide the superb white sand into three interconnected bays that more or less resemble the Sanskrit “om” symbol, the Sanskrit invocation that Hindus believe created the universe. Om is but one of five lovely beaches at Gokarna—other tempting, appropriately named stretches include Half-moon Beach and Paradise Beach. Infrastructure here was practically nonexistent a few years back, but new shacks and small “guesthouses” have been emerging every season. The good news is that this is also the setting for
SwaSwara
(
0838/625-7131
through -7133;
www.swaswara.com
), one of the loveliest Ayurvedic, yoga and meditation retreats in the country, a slick, luxurious operation by Kerala-based group, CGH Earth. Set atop a cliff above the beach and sea (access to which is a pleasant stroll through lush vegetation), this yoga retreat comprises 24 Konkan-styled indoor-outdoor villas set amid 12 hectares (30 acres) of palm trees and paddy fields. Each cottage has an air-conditioned bedroom, but the open-plan living area, bathroom, and covered upstairs terrace, are open to the elements and even incorporate a small garden. There’s a good pool, art studio (where you can take classes), a quiet yoga shala, and a spectacular blue-domed hall for meditation sessions (the yoga master is excellent—see if you can stay awake through his ultra-relaxing yoga nidra sessions). There are no restrictions or routines to follow, although you can opt for a healing or rejuvenation program that involves a stricter diet and regular consultations or treatments; but that depends on you. It’s a special place, where the tranquillity of the setting, the magic of the ocean, and the hands-on support from a dedicated, well-trained staff allows you to reconnect with yourself, ideally resetting your clock to the rhythm of your soul (which is what the Kannada term SwaSwara implies). You’re encouraged to stay at least 7 nights; the cost is 900€ per person sharing, with all meals (the food is extraordinary) and certain activities included, and Ayurvedic packages are also available.