India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (271 page)

Tip:
If you decide to go by rail from Kanha via Umaria on your way to Bandhavgarh, then you will need to leave Kanha the evening before and stay overnight at Jabalpur in order to catch the early morning train. The only decent en route option is the
Narmada Jacksons
(
0
761/400-1122;
w
ww.jacksons-hotel.com;
doubles from Rs 2,500) but don’t expect much—this is basic accommodation, just booked to facilitate your onward journey.

Banjaar Tola
We wish there were more stars to give this absolutely wonderful creation, another of the Taj-safari properties, this one spectacularly located on the River Banjaar. The two camps, each with just nine tents, lie along the riverside, across which are the woods; the massive half-moon shaped rooms lead out through large glass doors onto an outdoor deck with the most terrific view in Kanha (nos. 6–8 don’t have views of the river). Decor is gorgeous but it is the bathrooms that have hydrohedonists in heaven—almost the same size as the room, and with equally gorgeous views. Food is intelligently planned with light and healthy lunches of salads to keep you awake during your evening ride followed by a heavier but exceptional choice of dishes during dinner. Naturalists/guides are wonderful to interact with. Although staying here may land you with a considerably lighter pocket, consider it as a treat of a lifetime.Manji Tola Village, Baihar, Balaghat District 481116.
93-0365-1100.
Reservations:
866/969-1825
in the U.S. and Canada;
or 1800-111-825
or 022/6601-1825 in India.
www.tajsafaris.com
. [email protected]. 18 units. Rs 32,000 per person per night; special rates for off-season available along with special discounts if you opt for more than one Taj Safari Lodge. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining room and various dining areas; bar; airport transfers Rs 7,500; butler; cycles; doctor-on-call; Internet (complimentary); jeep safaris; library; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, flashlight, hair dryer.

Shergarh
Also tented (although comparative to Banjaar Tola, very rustic), the Shergarh tents offer comfortable and spacious en-suite tents, and air-coolers in summers and
angithis
(lit coal) in winters. Each of the six units comes with a veranda (ask for the tent next to the pond) where you can soak in the amazingly unpolluted night sky. Electricity may be erratic but there is a backup generator as well as oil lanterns—immediately providing a more romantic ambience. The intimate living room/lobby doubles as a dining room; lunches can be served outdoors under a gorgeous mango tree. If the rigorous routine of morning and evening safaris is too exhausting, owners Jehan and Katie can organize cycling to the river, guided walks to a hilltop where you can take in a beautiful sunset while sipping cocktails, or visits to the local market. The jeeps used for the safari are not as comfortable as at the other lodges, but the price makes up for this.

Village Bahmni, Post Kareli, Tehsil Baihar, District Balaghat 481 111.
07637/22-6215
or 90-9818-7346.
www.shergarh.com
. [email protected]. 6 units. Rs 10,500 per person on jungle plan. No credit cards, traveler’s checks and cash only; wire transfers in advance.
Amenities:
Dining room and various dining areas; bar; airport transfer (Rs 6,800); cycling, Internet (complimentary); library; market trips, jeep safaris; guided walks. In room: Air-coolers in summer, coal-fire in winter, flashlight.

7 Orchha

440km (273 miles) SE of Delhi; 238km (148 miles) S of Agra; 120km (74 miles) SE of Gwalior

Located on a rocky island on the Betwa River, the deserted royal citadel of Raja Rudra Pratap is one of India’s most fabulous Mughal heritage sites, yet Orchha (literally “hidden place”) is mercifully free of development, making this a wonderfully relaxing stop. Founded in 1531, it was the capital of the Bundela kings until 1738. Today the weathered temples, palaces, and cenotaphs are the royal quarters of emerald parakeets and black-faced langurs, while traditional whitewashed, flat-roofed structures house the laid-back villagers. Besides the palace complex, three beautiful temples are worth seeking out, as well as 14 graceful
chhatris
(cenotaphs) commemorating the Orchha rulers, built upstream along the riverbank. Most of these sights can be covered in a day excursion on the way to Khajuraho, but to get the most out of this surreally tranquil haven, spend at least 1 night here.

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION
The
MPSTDC Sheesh Mahal
(
07680/25-2624
) acts as an informal tourism office (see “Where to Stay,” below). They will arrange day trips and transfers.

GETTING THERE
The best way to get to Orchha is to catch a train to Jhansi, where trains from Delhi, Mumbai, or Chennai pull in, carrying visitors on their way to Khajuraho (see “Khajuraho: Getting There & Away,” earlier in this chapter). You can catch an auto-rickshaw from Jhansi to Orchha (20km/12 miles) for about Rs 300. Alternatively, with time on your hands, you can hire a car and driver and travel by road from Agra, overnighting at Gwalior (see “The Gems of Gwalior,” below).

EXPLORING ORCHHA’S FORGOTTEN MONUMENTS

The monuments of Orchha are fairly spread out, but close enough to be explored entirely on foot. You can spend a quick-paced morning poking through the ruins in which you’re most interested, or take your time and spread your explorations over an entire day. A few of the sights require a ticket, which you can purchase from a booth at the front of the Raj Mahal (daily 9am–5pm); the Rs 250 ticket provides access to all the main monuments.