India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (295 page)

Perfect Pit Stop Between Jaipur & Udaipur

Of the two recommendations below, our first choice is for Shahpura Bagh, not least because it gives you easy access to the nearby village which is still as yet unspoiled by tourism.

Deogarh Mahal
& Fort Seengh Sagar
Comprising an ornate 17th-century fort-palace with domed turrets and balconies, Deogarh Palace towers over the village that shares (pronounced Devgarh) below. Rooms vary considerably (you are welcome to and should look around when you arrive, and choose one), and some are beautifully furnished, with little done to change the authenticity of the architecture (right down to the slightly erratic plumbing); others are looking dated. Book one of the six suites (there are three categories but ask for nos. 235, 250–251) and pretend that all you survey from your private balcony is yours. It is authentic (ask for the historical audio tour researched by William Dalrymple and proprietor historian Col. Randhir Singhji), but thanks to the town village temple’s loudspeaker (which chimes on the half hour and extensively on the hour!) as well as regular group tours it is not as peaceful as nearby sister establishment,
Fort Seengh Sagar.
An island fortress set on a tranquil lake surrounded by palms, acacias, and rocky granite outcrops, this intimate, old hunting fort has been converted into a luxury villa with just four suites, each a rich amalgam of traditional Rajasthani furniture and modern elements. Each room has a private lake-view balcony; there’s also a sublime public terrace where you can dine under the stars, and on winter nights a roaring fire vies with the stars for attention. Both palace and fort are personally managed by Col. Randhir Singhji, the Thakur of Deogarh, and his son VB, who will make you feel like a long-lost aristocrat. Note that Deogarh is ideal to stop at after or before you’ve visited the Ranakpur Temples and Kumbhalgarh Fort (see Excursions under Udaipur entry), en route to or from Jaipur (280km/174 miles away) or Jodhpur (170km/105 miles away).

Deogarh Madaria, District Rajsamand, Rajasthan 313 331.
02904/25-2777.
Fax 02904/25-2555.
www.deogarhmahal.com
. [email protected]. Deogarh: 60 units. Low season (Apr–Sept)/high season (Oct–Mar): Rs 7,000/Rs 8,050 deluxe double; Rs 9,000/Rs 10,350 deluxe suite; Rs 12,000/Rs 14,800 royal suite. Seenghh Sagar: 4 units. Rs 15,000 suite, with discounts on each additional suite; Rs 48,000 for all 4 suites. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants (1 rooftop); bar; coffee shop; lounge; babysitting; bicycles; doctor-on-call; gym; henna; horse riding; Internet (Rs 100/hr.); Jacuzzi; jeep safaris, library; Ayurvedic massage; movies; pool; kids’ pool; snooker; table tennis. In room: A/C, TV (not in all the rooms), minibar (and at Seeghh Sagar).

Shahpura Bagh
Located precisely midway between Jaipur and Udaipur, this is one of our favorite destinations, a place for calm contemplation and serious relaxation. Beautifully appointed and set in a lush, verdant, 18-hectare (45-acre) wooded estate, the buildings are pukka colonial-era, with a classic veranda lined by squat white pillars. Most guest rooms are vast, double-volume affairs with tall, arched windows that make for plenty of light, and large well-appointed bathrooms. The large man-made dam along the perimeter of the north and west boundaries of the property is a bird-watcher’s paradise (with an island heronry) while the lush forested surrounds attract jungle cats and jackals. Aside from the immaculate accommodations, Shahpura Bagh has an incredibly homely atmosphere, because it is still the family’s home and is run as such with home-cooked meals (prearrange for authentic Rajasthani cooking lessons) served at the family table (though arrangements can be made to decamp to various romantic spots around the property). Their expansive new infinity pool is one of the best in Rajasthan, presided over by a towering pepul tree and surrounded by peacocks and date palms. Packed lunches for picnic walks and cycle tours make it easy to spend the day exploring the lush surrounds or the quaint adjacent village.

Shahpura Bagh, District Bhilwara 311 404.
98-281-22012
or -22013. Fax 01484/22-2077.
www.shahpurabagh.com
. [email protected]. 10 units. Rs 10,500 double; Rs 14,500 royal suite; Rs 2,500 extra bed. Rates include breakfast and one jeep safari with nonalcoholic refreshments; taxes extra. 20% discount May–Sept. MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining room; bar; lounge; boating and canoeing; bicycles; doctor-on-call; Internet (free); library; room service; transfers by arrangement; TV lounge; yoga and meditation. In room: A/C, fan, WorldSpace radio, Broadband Internet complimentary in some rooms.

4 Bundi

210km (130 miles) S of Jaipur; 279km (173 miles) SE of Udaipur; 438km (272 miles) SW of Agra

If you have a few extra days, then the small town of Bundi, established in 1241, is worth considering, not least to view the architectural magnificence of a palace and fort that clings to the cliff above the town. The lack of modernization (although arguably not a benefit to its residents) and presence of temples, cenotaphs, and step wells, as well as its renowned school of miniature paintings (arguably the best-value paintings in Rajasthan) are a further boon. Approached through a long, winding gorge, the town is protected by the embracing Aravalli Hills, topped by Taragarh Fort (which interestingly has no Mughal design influences), and eclipsed only by the new telecom tower ironically shaped as a Mughal minaret. Its narrow streets, with tiny cupboardlike shops raised a yard or more above street level to avoid the monsoon floods, are pretty much unchanged for centuries, but the community has lost much of its naïve charm and cleanliness that so delighted us when we first discovered it a decade ago. If you’re looking for a more untouched village experience, we recommend you visit the one near Shahpura Bagh.

Garh Palace
(described by Rudyard Kipling as “the work of goblins” and one of the few examples of pure Rajput style) is still Bundi’s chief attraction and while the Palace’s exterior is astounding, much of the interior is falling apart; nevertheless, entry to some areas (with spectacular views of the blue-tinged town below) is allowed (entry Rs 60, Rs 50 camera, Rs 100 video; dawn–dusk) and makes for fascinating, hassle-free exploration. The labyrinthine network of rooms, chambers, balconies, and nooks and crannies turns up a good number of surprises, including murals in various states of faded elegance. Above the main part of the palace, you can also visit the arcaded
Chitra Shala,
which is decorated with many of the fine murals in the miniature style the town is famous for (free entry; dawn–dusk). Chitra Shala alone is worth the steep walk up to the imposing gates, as are the views of the town—much of it painted the same blue seen in the more famous “blue city” of Jodhpur. For an even better vantage point, keep ascending the rough path that leads up to Taragarh (not necessarily to the top), for a great sense of peace (you’re unlikely to encounter anyone, bar the Hanuman langur monkeys and a lone goat herder) and superb photo-ops of the town. Back down in town, take a few minutes to visit
Raniji-ki-Baori
(the state’s most impressive step well), which lies in a small park in the center of town; it dates from the 17th century and features ornately carved gates, pillars, and friezes.