India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (68 page)

CENTRAL MUMBAI: WORLI, TARDEO & CHOWPATTY BEACH

Among the most famous eateries in this central part of town, is
Jewel of India
(
020/2494-9435;
daily 12:30–3pm and 6:30–11:30pm) at the Nehru Centre, although we often find ourselves completely absorbed at the bar, or checking out what the many Mumbai families who frequent this place are getting up to (Sunday afternoon is best for social voyeurism). It’s a large, elegant, old-fashioned kind of place, and the menu looks more like a shopping list than an aid to decision-making—there are literally dozens of Indian dishes; your best bet is to call Agneto Fernandes, the maitre d’, over to your table and ask him what’s what. He’d like nothing better than to help you choose wisely.

Copper Chimney
KEBABS/MUGHLAI For more than a quarter of a century, Copper Chimney has delighted those looking for the perfect kebabs. To this end, two pages of the menu are dedicated to kebabs, from the popular
reshmi
kebab (chicken) to the
jhinga nisha
(tandoori prawn kebabs). These tender, creamy, smoky-flavored, melt-in-your-mouth kebabs can be followed by traditional Dum Pukht specialties such as chicken
makhani
(butter chicken) or the even more exquisite Peshawari lamb. No matter what you pick, you will leave satisfied. There’s also a daily buffet lunch, but don’t be swayed by the variety—some of the best items on the menu (such as the unfailingly wonderful butter chicken) are not offered at the buffet. Note that while Copper Chimney branches are found all over the city, this is the one to patronize (don’t confuse it with the bland mall version on the other side of Worli).

12-A Lotus Court, Dr. Annie Besant Rd., Worli.
022/2492-0505
or -5353. Main courses Rs 210–Rs 400; tiger prawns Rs 725. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3:30pm and 7:30pm–12:30am.

Oh Calcutta!
BENGALI The famous hand-pulled rickshaw of Kolkata stands outside this singular eatery at Tardeo, not far from the Haji Ali mosque. The restaurant’s specialty is its freshwater fish, flown in especially from Kolkata. For starters,
kakra chingri bhapa,
or prawn and crabmeat cake spiced and steamed in banana leaves, is superb, but so is everything else; even the simple fish fry is outstanding. Close your eyes and order either the
daab chingri
or the
chingri malai
curry, both coconut-milk-based prawn curries, both different and gently flavorful, with steamed rice. For more robust flavors, try
illish machher patur,
hilsa
fish marinated with mustard and green chili paste and steamed in banana leaf. As a Bengali restaurant, fish dominates the menu, but vegetarians are well catered to and can order a number of dishes, including the classic banana flower and potato dish
mochar ghonto.

Hotel Rosewood, Tulsiwadi Lane, Tardeo.
022/2496-3114
or 022/6680-6216. Reservations recommended on weekend nights. Main courses Rs 225–Rs 550. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 7pm–midnight.

Olive Bar and Kitchen
MEDITERRANEAN Despite its reputation as one of the city’s singularly popular Bollywood stargazing venues (not to mention being a big hit with singles of all persuasions looking to score), this glittering übertrendy establishment also happens to serve very good Mediterranean meals (studiously prepared by Olive’s award-winning chef, Max Massimilianto Orlati—yes, a true Italian). The menu is fairly predictable, and you’ll probably want to stick to the lighter Italian dishes—you wouldn’t want to be too distracted from the scene around you by a large plate of food. Arrive early and sit in the lovely open-air space outside, always buzzing with Beautiful People; it’s a perfect spot for lingering over multiple drinks—and who knows which hot star you might bump into.
Note:
There is now a branch of Olive at the Mahalaxmi Race Course, where lunch is served daily. Mahalaxmi Branch is at Amateur Riders Club, Mahalaxmi Race Course, Mahalaxmi (
022/4085-9595
or -9596); open daily 12:30–4:30pm.

Tourist Hotel, 14 Union Park, Pali Hill, Khar (W), Bandra.
022/2605-8228
or -8229.
www.olivebarandkitchen.com
. Reservations highly recommended.
Main courses Rs 250–Rs 865; prix-fixe lunch menu Rs 399. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7:30pm–1:30am, Sun 12:30–4:30pm and 7:30pm–1:30am.

San Qi
ASIAN You’ll be stumped for choice at this two-level fine dining establishment at the Four Seasons—it’s really three eateries seamlessly joined at the hip. Three top chefs—imported from their respective native lands and armed with a desire to create culinary adventure while satisfying traditional tastes. Chef Kato’s
chawanmushi
custard with foie gras is a legend in the making, but you’ll probably want to join the crowd at the teppanyaki counter, or investigate the enticing robatayaki offerings. Mumbai’s fresh seafood works well in Chef Then Kok Leong’s kitchen; the wok-fried prawns are done simply with garlic, and he prepares a sublime marinade for his crisp pomfret fillet. But you really should check out Chef Shahid Latif’s fresh take on traditional Indian (mostly Lucknowi) dishes. His kebabs (worth ordering just to see what comes out of those impressive-looking state-of-the-art traditional ovens) are amazing, but there are contemporary India offerings from the tandoor, such as smoked honey mustard sea bass with sautéed greens, fennel, and cumin—talk about giving Indian cuisine an international edge!