India on My Platter (13 page)

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12 September / Nasik

The 230 km stretch from Surat to Nasik is one of the most scenic highways that connect both states. Nasik is in the northwest of Maharashtra and is part of a golden triangle connecting Mumbai, Pune and Nasik. It is famous for its wine and has been deemed the wine capital of India over the last decade. Nasik is a very fertile belt with the ideal climatic conditions for the growth of vegetables and fruits.

I made my way to Sula Vineyards. This belt is famous for its grapes. The valley’s first commercial winery, Sula Vineyards, established in 1999, is one of the biggest in India, covering 160 acres. Their most widely-produced variety of white wine is the Sauvignon Blanc.

Here, I met the Chief Winemaker, Mr. Ajoy Shaw, at Sula Vineyards. For someone who is not familiar with wine, it can be explained as the fermented grape juice that is filtered and bottled. Mr. Shaw said that India has the potential to produce wines that can compete with their European counterparts, and that it was only a matter of time. Some of the French varieties of grapes used here are Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon. I was lucky to see the barrels where the wine was stored and left to age; I also had the opportunity to do a small tasting class with the master himself. For those of us who are not familiar with the at-times complicated steps to tasting wine, I was enlightened about the correct way. Mr. Shaw mentioned that wine is meant to be sipped and enjoyed, not gulped! It is important to hold the glass up to the light and measure the clarity of wine. Then, the glass should be swirled and the aromas should be captured by deeply inhaling into the glass. Then, after sipping on the wine, you extend the mouth and absorb the flavours of the wine. It is important that you allow the wine to stay on your palate for a few delayed seconds.

The range of wines at Sula is quite wide, what is also interesting is that they make sparkling wine as well, which I had the opportunity to taste. They apply what they refer to as a ‘champagne method’ to produce this wine. However, they cannot label it as ‘champagne’ due to strict laws that protect the integrity of champagne from France. Sula is also popular for their wine tour; I hopped on a bicycle and rode around the vineyard. After the tasting session with Mr. Shaw, it was time for me to don the chef’s hat. Cooking with wine is not a new phenomenon, but incorporating wine in the cooking of Indian food was my new local challenge. I set out to make a
Tomato, Dried Fenugreek & Wine Rice
using the Sula Chenin Blanc.

T
OMATO
,
D
RIED
F
ENUGREEK
&
W
INE
R
ICE

(Rice cooked with fenugreek leaves and Chenin Blanc.)

Ingredients (for the rice)

Method (for the rice)

1.  Soak the basmati rice in water for 20-30 minutes. Thereafter, strain and keep it aside.

2.   Heat the olive oil in a pan.

3.  Add the cumin when the oil is hot and let it crackle.

4.  Add the strained rice and stir for two minutes.

5.  Add the white wine and raise the flame to high. Let it reduce for two to three minutes. Add tomato purée, red chilli powder, turmeric, garam masala, cumin powder, dried fenugreek and salt. Cook for two minutes.

6.  Add one and half cups of water. Put the lid on and cook on low flame for 12-15 minutes.

7.  Keep the pan aside thereafter. Uncover the lid after half an hour of resting it.

Ingredients (for the sauce)

Method (for the sauce)

1.  Add the olive oil and butter to the pan.

2.  When hot, add the garlic and onion and cook till translucent.

3.  Add the mushrooms and corn kernels. Cook on high flame for two minutes.

4.  Add the wine and let it reduce for three to four minutes.

5.  Add the cherry tomatoes, oregano, chilli flakes, salt and torn basil.

6.  Cook for two minutes. Now, add freshly cracked pepper and serve with rice.

∼

Over the lunch that I had cooked, I discussed how regional Indian dishes, like kebabs, curries, and biryanis can be paired with wine. After a pleasant lunch on the lawns, it was time to move on to Pune, 200 km away from Nasik.

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13 September / Pune

Pune is a young city that prides in the large number of medical and management schools. This has earned the city the title of Oxford of the East. Pune not only has a strong pub culture, it is firmly rooted in tradition, resulting in it being a place of incredible mixes. My first stop was Good Luck café. Dating back to 1935, Good Luck café was the best place to understand the vibe of the city. The place had an unassuming décor and patrons that cut across all sections of the society, from cab drivers, to Bollywood stars, and unknown TV show hosts, like yours truly, all find their ways frequently to this small quaint eatery on Ferguson College Road.

Pune is a young city that prides in the large number of medical and management schools. This has earned the city the title of Oxford of the East. Pune not only has a strong pub culture, it is firmly rooted in tradition, resulting in it being a place of incredible mixes. My first stop was Good Luck café. Dating back to 1935, Good Luck café was the best place to understand the vibe of the city. The place had an unassuming décor and patrons that cut across all sections of the society, from cab drivers, to Bollywood stars, and unknown TV show hosts, like yours truly, all find their ways frequently to this small quaint eatery on Ferguson College Road.

Abbas Bhai, the current owner, spoke highly of the bun
maska
(bun and butter) and the
chai
(tea), which lived up to my expectation. The bun was soft, sweet and buttery. The
anda
(egg) chutney was a new experience for me. On probing about the recipe, the answer I got was unexpected and definitely movie-worthy. The special recipe was called Formula 44, inspired by a Naseeruddin Shah movie from the nineties. The chef who invented this dish, Mr. Arab, definitely had a strong Bollywood influence over him.

My next halt was at Bedekar Tea Stall at Narayan Peth. It was the city’s most popular place to sample the Maharashtrian speciality called
puneri missal.
Missal literally means mixture with three main components: the
tarri,
or gravy, is a thin broth made of Maharashtrian spices and red chillies; the
ussal
is a mixture of sprouted lentils and the garnish, which is fancy in its own right, is made up of onions,
sev,
potato, coriander and
poha
(a kind of flat rice flake). The tea stall is run by a small family, who unlike some other places in Pune, have been consistent with taste and quality over the years. Kudos to the Bedekar family!

The
missal
is served with a slice of bread, instead of the standard
pav
(bun) accompaniment served across the rest of Maharashtra. Even after studying for three years in Maharashtra, I wasn’t a big fan of
missal.
However, the experience at Bedekar changed my opinion of the dish and how it is made. Apart from
puneri missal,
you must also try the
gulkand
(sweet preserve of rose petals) and coconut
laddus
there.

The day ended with me trying to figure out what ‘Cad B’ was. The outlet we visited was Ice Cream Magic at Kothrud which was close to famous universities like the Film and Television Institute of India. Popular among college students, this dessert-drink is a thick chocolate shake. They sell it for Rs. 40, and I did not shy away from indulging in this sinful treat.

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14 September / Pune

The next day, I decided to visit Aarava Crafts, makers of traditional terracotta handicrafts. Ganesh Chaturthi was around the corner and I tried my hands at making terracotta idols of Lord Ganesha. My guide was Mrs. Swarnarekha who explained the delicate art to me, ‘Simply put, terra means earth and cotta means baked.’ She drew a parallel between food and the art of terracotta. She explained that just like how we knead dough, clay also requires the same patience and skill to form its final shape. I tried my hand at a few idols, and knew I was no Michelangelo. However, I really enjoyed being a part of the process. As a gesture of gratitude, I decided to churn some funky new age
golgappas
(popular street snack consisting of a round, hollow puff pastry filled with spiced mashed potato, flavoured water, tamarind chutney, onion and chickpeas) for the skilful workers at Aarava Crafts. Instead of the traditional filling, it was filled with a fruit
chaat
tossed in yoghurt and the spicy water was replaced with some spiced-up fresh pomegranate juice. After eating they agreed cooking is an art too.

After my mid-day fling with terracotta, I went to meet an old friend and mentor, Chef Shailendra, at the famous Stone Water Grill. He is a molecular gastronomy expert and a TV show host himself and his skill and reputation precede him. I watched him deconstruct a watermelon and feta salad into the simple elements of molecular gastronomy. He explained how the process was not chemical and allowed chefs to experiment with textures and aesthetics of plate presentation. What was most exciting about my time with him was the beetrootbased dessert that he made. He used crushed waffles, nitro-frozen poached beetroot, charred meringue, and dehydrated oranges to make this dessert and called it the beetroot ice cream platter.

It is always inspiring to be around chefs from different walks of life, the traditional and the modern, by the roadside or in the tasting room. I am truly lucky to be able to experience this journey with so many wonderful people.

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From Pune I headed to a place that had its three ‘S’s—sun, sand, and the sea—intact. Goa, here I come.

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16 September / Panjim

It took us more than a day to reach Goa, India’s smallest state by area. Part of the Konkan region, it is a very popular tourist destination for both Indians and foreigners. Interestingly, it is also India’s richest state owing to the super successful tourism industry. Old Goa represents what remains of the former Portuguese Colony. The cuisine is a curious combination of Western influence and exotic Eastern ingredients. From coconut-based curries to fresh seafood, Goa showcases its Konkan style, while also bringing to the table traditional Portuguese dishes with heavy local influences.

My first experience in Goa was a little challenge I had set up for myself. Living in Delhi all my life I had always driven a car, but for those of you who know Goa, you would also know that the way to get around there is a scooter! It was my turn today to get on one and give it a go. My producer very graciously came to my assistance. After half an hour, and a slightly twisted wrist, I could proudly say that I was finally a biker!

I decided to take a small personal vacation within Goa (perks of being a TV show host) by taking a ferry from Panaji to Old Goa. It was my first ferry ride and I was smiling the whole way there. I visited the Basilica of Bom Jesus, one of the most popular churches in Old Goa. Being within its premises literally takes one back in time. Then, I took a jet ski to Fisherman’s Wharf to sample their seafood specialities. This restaurant is on the banks of the Sal River. I must warn you beforehand; never visit this place for dinner without a reservation; it is popular! The restaurant serves authentic Goan food, with the tempting option of the ‘Fresh Catch of the Day’ preparations. That includes prawns, lobsters, red snapper and black pomfret. The ambience is what makes this restaurant special. The seafood display is very elaborate and is placed right at the entrance of the restaurant and is visually stunning. I chose to eat
Flaming Prawn Balchao,
which had generous amounts of palm vinegar,
feni
(spirit produced exclusively in Goa), ginger and tomatoes. I ate my meal in the company of a very cool Canadian couple. If they ever read this book, I want them to know that I would love to see them again!

F
LAMING
P
RAWN
B
ALCHAO

(Prawns served in a tangy tomato chilli sauce.)

Ingredients