Japanese Cooking - Contemporary & Traditional (6 page)
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Authors: Miyoko Nishimoto Schinner
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BOOK: Japanese Cooking - Contemporary & Traditional
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In a country where rice is the staple at almost every meal, one would think that it would be cheap. Unfortunately, quite to the contrary, rice can go for two or more dollars per pound by today’s exchange rates. Because it is the national grain, rice production is largely protected by the government, and rice farmers (practically heroes) are handsomely subsidized. Although many Japanese favor the importation of cheaper rice from California and other parts of the world, at present there still remains an embargo on importing rice.
From a culinary perspective, every Japanese woman used to learn how to cook rice to perfection. In sushi restaurants, an apprentice in olden days would have to spend up to two years just cooking rice until it was perfect. Now, electric rice cookers have taken the mystery out of the method as long as one can measure accurately. Japanese rice is delicious eaten plain hot, cold, or formed into
onigiri
(rice balls wrapped in nori and enclosing a secret filling). It is also cooked with various mushrooms, vegetables, and seasonings for special occasions or turned into delicious and simple brothy concoctions that could be considered Japanese risottos. Of course, sushi rice, seasoned with vinegar and a little sugar and sea salt, is the foundation for a simple but grand style of cuisine. Although traditionally all of these rice dishes begin with white rice, it is possible to substitute more nutritious short-grain brown rice; in fact, once you become accustomed to the flavor of brown rice, you may find white rice to be somewhat bland!
Cooked Riceonigiri
(rice balls wrapped in nori and enclosing a secret filling). It is also cooked with various mushrooms, vegetables, and seasonings for special occasions or turned into delicious and simple brothy concoctions that could be considered Japanese risottos. Of course, sushi rice, seasoned with vinegar and a little sugar and sea salt, is the foundation for a simple but grand style of cuisine. Although traditionally all of these rice dishes begin with white rice, it is possible to substitute more nutritious short-grain brown rice; in fact, once you become accustomed to the flavor of brown rice, you may find white rice to be somewhat bland!
Yes, you can cook rice without a rice cooker, even though this fact might be seriously questioned by many young Japanese housewives. A heavy bottomed pot with a tight fitting lid is all that is necessary for most rice; for brown rice, I find that a pressure cooker yields a moister, stickier rice with a better texture than that cooked in a covered saucepan.
The method for cooking either white or brown rice is the same; only the length of time and proportion of rice to water change. Both types of rice benefit from being washed and soaked at least 30 minutes, or even several hours, before being cooked. The rice will cook slightly faster and be more tender. You can wash rice before going to work, leave it soaking in the water it will cook in, and then cook it upon returning in the evening. When washing white rice, fill the pot with cold water, stir the rice vigorously with your hand (the water will turn milky and cloudy), and then pour off the water. Repeat this until the water runs fairly clear. Pour in about 20% more water than white rice (about a knuckle above the rice). Allow this to soak for at least thirty minutes. (The longer the rice soaks, the more tender it will be.) Brown rice will not turn the water milky, but should be rinsed several times anyway. As a general rule, water should come up about two knuckles above the brown rice; for those who like to measure, for every 2 cups of brown rice, use 3½ cups of water. Less water is required if using a pressure cooker.
After washing and soaking, put a lid on the pot and turn the heat to high. When the water comes to a rolling boil (you will be able to hear it—no need to remove the lid), turn the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes for white rice, 20 for brown. Then turn the heat as low as possible, and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes for white, 20 to 25 for brown. Do not remove the lid while cooking, and do not stir. Turn the heat off and allow to sit for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Before serving, use a
shamoji
(a wide, flat spatula for rice, usually made of wood) or a wooden spoon to stir and fluff the rice.
shamoji
(a wide, flat spatula for rice, usually made of wood) or a wooden spoon to stir and fluff the rice.
A pressure cooker will cook brown rice in about 15 to 20 minutes after reaching 15 pounds pressure. Check the instructions for your particular cooker. Pressure cooking brown rice will yield a less dry, more desirable texture.
Mushroom and Carrot Zosui4 to 5 cups
Konbu to Shiitake no Dashi
(Konbu-Shiitake Stock), page 54, or 2 x 3-inch piece konbu, 8 to 10 dry shiitake, and 4 to 5 cups water
Konbu to Shiitake no Dashi
(Konbu-Shiitake Stock), page 54, or 2 x 3-inch piece konbu, 8 to 10 dry shiitake, and 4 to 5 cups water
8 ounces
shimeji
(oyster mushrooms) 2 medium carrots, split in half and cut in half-moons
shimeji
(oyster mushrooms) 2 medium carrots, split in half and cut in half-moons
3
cups white or brown cooked rice
cups white or brown cooked rice
1 teaspoon sea salt
3 tablespoons soy sauce
cup thinly sliced scallions or green onionsIf you do not have any shiitake-konbu stock on hand, soak the konbu and shiitake in the 4 to 5 cups water for 10 minutes in a saucepan, then partially cover and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the shiitake is completely tender. Remove the shiitake and either reserve for another dish, or slice and return to the stock. If you already have the stock available, simply heat. Add the mushrooms and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the carrots, rice, and sea salt; cover and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the soy sauce, simmer for another 3 to 4 minutes, and adjust the sea salt to taste. Pour into individual bowls and top with the sliced scallions. Serve immediately.
Zosui is the Japanese version of risotto, a brothy concoction of rice and tasty tidbits of vegetables, mushrooms, and seasonings. Although homey and simple, it is quite satisfying and a great way to use leftover rice from the day before.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Mixed Vegetable Zosui3 cups cooked rice
4 to 5 cups
Konbu Dashi
(Konbu or Konbu-Shiitake Stock), page 54
2 tablespoons sake
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 to 3 cups vegetables of choice, sliced, juliened, or finely diced (Good vegetables to use are broccoli, asparagus, green beans, snap peas, snow peas, sweet potatoes, squash, lotus root, leeks, carrots, mushrooms, etc. Do not use tomatoes, avocados, lettuce, cabbage, cucumbers, or beets.)
3 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup thinly sliced green onions
4 to 5 cups
Konbu Dashi
(Konbu or Konbu-Shiitake Stock), page 54
2 tablespoons sake
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 to 3 cups vegetables of choice, sliced, juliened, or finely diced (Good vegetables to use are broccoli, asparagus, green beans, snap peas, snow peas, sweet potatoes, squash, lotus root, leeks, carrots, mushrooms, etc. Do not use tomatoes, avocados, lettuce, cabbage, cucumbers, or beets.)
3 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup thinly sliced green onions
Combine the rice, stock, sake, sea salt, and root or hard vegetables (carrots, lotus root, etc.) in a pot, and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, adding the other vegetables in order of hardness, adding delicate snow peas or asparagus only towards the end. Stir occasionally. Add the soy sauce and simmer for another 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the thinly sliced green onions, remove from the heat, and serve.
This is a flexible dish that allows you to use up whatever leftover veggies may be in the refrigerator. Alternatively, this can be a feast with carefully planned vegetable combinations fresh from the garden.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Japanese Pilaf3 cups short-grain brown or white rice
5 cups
Konbu Dashi
(Konbu or Konbu-Shiitake Stock), page 54 for brown rice, or 3½ cups for white rice
2 tablespoons sake
¼ cup soy sauce
8 ounces mushrooms, sliced
2 carrots, cut into 1-inch matchsticks
1
cups frozen green peas
5 cups
Konbu Dashi
(Konbu or Konbu-Shiitake Stock), page 54 for brown rice, or 3½ cups for white rice
2 tablespoons sake
¼ cup soy sauce
8 ounces mushrooms, sliced
2 carrots, cut into 1-inch matchsticks
1
cups frozen green peasIn a large pot or rice cooker, combine the rice and stock. Add the sake and soy sauce. Place the vegetables on top. Cover with a lid, and either turn on the rice cooker or bring the rice to a boil over high heat. Immediately turn the heat down, and continue to cook for 45 to 50 minutes for brown rice, or 10 to 15 minutes for white rice. Turn off the heat and allow to set for an additional 10 to 15 minutes. With a shamoji (flat, wide wooden rice spatula) or a wooden spoon, fluff the rice up and serve immediately.
Rice is often cooked along with other ingredients such as vegetables, chestnuts, or mushrooms to create a fat-free dish similar to pilaf Here is a simple version utilizing vegetables available year-round. Feel free to substitute other seasonal vegetables as desired.
Yield: 8 servings
Oyster Mushroom Pilaf3 cups short-grain brown or white rice
4½ cups
Konbu Dashi
(Konbu or Konbu-Shiitake Stock), page 54 for brown rice, or 3¼ cups for white rice
¼ cup sake
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sea salt
8 ounces
shimeji
(oyster mushrooms), rinsed and torn into small pieces
4½ cups
Konbu Dashi
(Konbu or Konbu-Shiitake Stock), page 54 for brown rice, or 3¼ cups for white rice
¼ cup sake
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sea salt
8 ounces
shimeji
(oyster mushrooms), rinsed and torn into small pieces
Wash the brown rice thoroughly. Combine with the other ingredients in a heavy pot with a tight fitting lid. Turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Immediately turn the heat down as low as possible, and cook for approximately 45 minutes for brown rice, or 10 to 15 minutes for white rice. Turn the heat off and allow to set for at least 10 minutes before serving. With a
shamoji
(flat, wide wooden rice spatula) or a wooden spoon, fluff the rice up and serve immediately.
shamoji
(flat, wide wooden rice spatula) or a wooden spoon, fluff the rice up and serve immediately.
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