Julia's Kitchen Wisdom (3 page)

HOW TO PREPARE LEEKS.
Trim off the root ends, keeping the leaves attached. Cut off tops so the leeks are 6 to 7 inches long. Starting ½ inch from the root and keeping leaves attached, slit each leek lengthwise in half and then in quarters. Wash under cold running water, spreading the leaves apart to rinse off all dirt. Leeks can be
braised whole
or sliced crosswise into pieces for soup. To julienne, cut leeks crosswise into 2-inch pieces, press leaves flat, and slice lengthwise into matchsticks.

TO PURÉE A SOUP.
To use an immersion blender, set the machine upright in the center bottom of your soup pan, turn it on and move it around, but do not bring it to the surface. To use the food processor, strain the soup and turn the solids into the processor, adding to them a little of the liquid, then process, adding a little more liquid as needed. To use the vegetable mill, strain the soup and add the solids gradually to the mill, passing them through with small additions of the liquid.

STOCKS

Light Chicken Stock

Bring to the simmer in water to cover a collection of raw and/or cooked chicken bones, trimmings, gizzards, and necks (but no livers). Skim off scum that rises to the surface for several minutes, then salt very lightly. Cover loosely and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours, adding water if needed. You may also wish to include chopped onions, carrots, celery (½ cup each for every 2 quarts of bones), and an
herb bouquet
. Strain and degrease.

To make a “strong chicken stock,” boil it down to concentrate its flavor.

When the stock is cool, cover and either refrigerate for several days or freeze.

VARIATIONS

• TURKEY, VEAL, OR PORK STOCK.
  Proceed as for the light chicken stock, above.
  

• HAM STOCK.
  For 2 quarts of ham bones and scraps, include 1 cup each of chopped carrots, onions, and celery, and an
  herb bouquet
  consisting of 3 imported bay leaves, 1 teaspoon thyme, and 5 whole cloves or allspice berries. Proceed as for the chicken stock, but simmer about 3 hours.
  

• BROWN CHICKEN, TURKEY, OR DUCK STOCK.
  Chop the bones and scraps into ½-inch pieces and brown in hot oil in a frying pan, and for every 2 quarts of them add ½ cup each chopped carrots, onions, and celery stalks. When nicely browned, transfer to a heavy saucepan. Skim fat out of frying pan, pour in cup of dry white wine, and scrape coagulated browning juices into it, then pour into the saucepan, adding chicken stock and/or water to cover ingredients. Include an
  herb bouquet
  , salt lightly, and cover loosely. Simmer, skim, strain, and degrease as for the light chicken stock.
  

Simple Beef Stock

Arrange a collection of meaty raw and/or cooked beef bones, such as shank, neck, oxtail, and/or knuckle, in a roasting pan, adding (for every 2 to 3 quarts of bones) ½ cup each of roughly chopped onions, celery, and carrots. Baste lightly with vegetable oil and brown for 30 to 40 minutes in a 450°F oven, turning and basting with oil or accumulated fat several times. Scoop bones and vegetables into a stockpot. Pour fat out of roasting pan and deglaze with 2 cups of water, simmering and scraping up coagulated juices. Pour into pot, adding cold water to cover ingredients by 2 inches. Add more chopped onion, celery, and carrot (½ cup each for every 2 to 3 quarts of bones), a chopped fresh tomato, 2 large cloves of smashed unpeeled garlic, and a medium
herb bouquet
. Bring to the simmer, skim off scum for several minutes, and continue as for the preceding chicken stock, but simmer 2 to 3 hours.

VARIATIONS

• BROWN VEAL, PORK, OR LAMB STOCK.
  Proceed as for beef stock, above, but omit the carrots for lamb stock.
  

Fish Stock

Wash fresh fish frames (bones and head, minus gills) from lean white fish such as cod, hake, flounder, halibut, sole. (Do not add dark skin.) Chop into pieces. Bring to the simmer in a large pot with water to cover by 1 inch. Skim off scum for a few minutes, salt lightly,
cover loosely, and simmer 30 minutes. Strain. Boil down to concentrate flavor. Cover when cool, and refrigerate for a day or freeze.

USING CANNED BROTHS AND BOUILLONS.
To disguise your use of the can, simmer the broth for 15 to 20 minutes with a handful of minced carrots, onions, and celery and perhaps a bit of dry white wine or dry white French vermouth.

NOTE:
I use the terms broth and bouillon interchangeably, whether fresh or canned; stock refers to homemade.

COOKING WITH OR WITHOUT WINE.
For red wine, use a young, full wine such as a zinfandel or a Chianti. White wines should be dry and full-bodied, such as a sauvignon, but because many of the whites are too acid, I prefer to use a dry white French vermouth. In addition to its strength and quality, it keeps nicely. Port, Madeiras, and sherries must be dry. If you do not wish to cook with wine, simply omit it, or add stock or more herbs.

SOUPS MADE FROM STOCK OR CANNED BROTH

MASTER RECIPE

Chicken Soup with Vegetables

For about 2½ quarts, serving 6 to 8

8 cups
chicken stock
or canned chicken broth

1 imported bay leaf

½ cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth

1 cup each julienne or fine dice of onion, celery, white of leek, and carrot

2 boned and skinned chicken-breast halves

Salt and pepper

Bring stock or broth to the simmer with the bay leaf, wine, and vegetables; simmer 5 to 6 minutes, or until the vegetables are just tender. Meanwhile, cut the chicken into thin slices, and the slices into julienne matchsticks 1½ inches long. Fold them into the soup and let simmer just a minute or two, until cooked through. Correct seasoning, then let sit for 15 to 20 minutes, allowing the chicken to absorb flavors. Serve hot with melba toast or buttered toast points.

VARIATIONS

• BEEF AND VEGETABLE SOUP.
  In a large saucepan, sauté 1 cup each finely diced onion, celery, carrot, and leek for 2 minutes in butter. Pour in 2 quarts
  beef stock
  or canned bouillon. Add ½ cup diced turnip; ½ cup orzo (rice-shaped pasta), quick-cooking tapioca, or rice; and, if available, any cooked and chopped beef shank or oxtail meat left from making beef stock. Simmer 10 minutes. Meanwhile, blanch for a minute or so 1½ cups shredded green cabbage leaves; drain, chop, and add to soup with ¾ cup peeled, seeded, diced
  tomato
  . If you’ve not used meat, add also ¾ cup cooked or canned red or white beans. Reheat to the simmer for a few moments; season to taste, and serve.
  

• FRENCH ONION SOUP.
  In a large saucepan, slowly sauté 2 quarts thinly sliced onions in 3 tablespoons butter and 1 of oil for about 20 minutes, until softened. Stir in ½ teaspoon each salt and sugar; sauté 15 to 20 minutes more over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons flour over onions and cook slowly, stirring, for 2 minutes. Off heat, whisk in 2 cups hot beef stock or canned beef broth and ¼ cup cognac or brandy. When well blended, stir in 2 quarts more stock or broth and 1 cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth. Simmer, loosely covered, for 30 minutes. Season to taste, and serve.
  

• ONION SOUP GRATINÉE.
  Line the bottom of a large casserole or individual crocks with hard-toasted French-bread rounds (see box below); top with thin slices of Swiss cheese. Ladle the hot onion soup over them, float more toast rounds on top, and cover with a layer of grated Swiss or Parmesan. Bake in a 450°F oven 20 minutes, or until cheese is melted and browned.