Maida Heatter's Book of Great Chocolate Desserts (39 page)

GLAZE

1 teaspoon dry instant coffee

½ cup boiling water

⅓ cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon vegetable shortening (such as Crisco)

1 ounce (1 square) unsweetened chocolate

4½ ounces semisweet chocolate

In a small saucepan dissolve the coffee in the water. Add the sugar and shortening. Place over moderate heat and bring to a boil. Add both chocolates and stir until they are melted—don’t worry about making it smooth.

Transfer to the small bowl of an electric mixer and beat briefly on low speed only until smooth. Then let the glaze stand until it cools to room temperature. Again beat briefly on low speed only until smooth.

Now, to cover the cream with a very thin layer of the glaze: Starting a few inches from one of the narrow ends of the pan, pour a thick ribbon of the glaze (about one-third of the total amount) over the whipped cream along the narrow end of the pan. With a long, narrow metal spatula quickly spread it into a smooth, thin, even layer covering about one-third of the whipped cream. (You will find it best to rest the edge of the spatula blade on the rim of the pan as you spread the glaze. The glaze will actually be spread on the rim of the pan in some places.) Then immediately pour on the remaining glaze and spread that, covering all of the cream and smoothing the glaze evenly. This is not difficult, just unusual. The main thing is to work quickly and do not work over the chocolate any more than is absolutely necessary.

Refrigerate at least until the chocolate is firm enough to be cut. That will take only a few minutes, but it can wait longer if you wish—several hours or even overnight. Or place it in the freezer—this will cut more neatly if it is frozen or partially frozen. However, frozen or not … superb!

With a small, sharp knife cut around the outside of the cake to release. With toothpicks mark a long side of the cake into five 3-inch lengths. With the small, sharp knife cut through the cake forming five 3-inch strips—wipe the knife blade after making each cut. Then, along a short side, cut down the middle, and then cut both halves in half again. (If this sounds complicated just cut it any way you wish, cutting the cake into about 20 portions. Cut carefully, and remember to wipe the blade after each cut.)

With a wide metal spatula transfer the portions to a large serving platter. Refrigerate until serving time.

NOTE
:
Although this makes 20 portions, I have found that it is not too much for eight or ten people.

Chocolate Pasticcios

30
P
ASTICCIOS

The dictionary definition of
pasticcio
is “In music, art, or writing, a medley made up of fragments of other works connected so as to form a complete work.” These came about when I had a wonderful pastry and a delicious filling, both unrelated, and I put them together.

These are chic, elegant little pastries—they are finger-food. Serve them at a tea party or as dessert for a luncheon. Or on a buffet. They are like miniature pies. The crust is a classic French pastry, the filling is a smooth, soft chocolate fudge. (How rich and creamy, dark sweet/bittersweet, etc., can chocolate be? From 1 to 10, this filling rates 12.)

This is not a quickie. On the contrary, it takes time and qualifies as a hobby or pastime.

You will need small, round (not fluted) tartlet pans. Mine are French. They measure 2⅜ (just over 2¼) inches across the top and they are
(just under ½) inch in depth. These are generally available in specialty kitchen stores. In New York they are at The Bridge Company, 214 East 52nd Street, New York, N.Y. 10022. You will also need a plain, round cookie cutter 2¾ inches in diameter.

PASTRY

It is best to make this ahead of time. It should be refrigerated at least one hour before using, but it may wait in the refrigerator for a few days or it may be frozen.

1¼ cups sifted all-purpose flour

¼ cup granulated sugar

¼ pound (I stick) sweet butter, cut into small pieces

1 egg yolk

2 tablespoons ice water

This pastry may be put together in a food processor or in the traditional manner. To make in the processor fitted with the steel blade, place the flour and sugar in the bowl. Add the butter which should be cold and process until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the yolk and water and process only until the mixture forms a ball.

To make in the traditional manner, place the flour and sugar in a medium-size mixing bowl. With a pastry blender, cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir the yolk and water together, add to the flour mixture, and stir with a fork until the mixture holds together.

Wrap the pastry airtight and refrigerate it for at least an hour, or even a few days if you wish, or freeze it.

The pastry crusts will be baked empty first and then again with the filling. When you are ready for the first baking line up your little tartlet pans. This recipe is for 30 tartlets but if you don’t have enough pans the remaining pastry (and the filling) can wait (see Note).

Flour a pastry cloth and a rolling pin. Work with half of the dough at a time—reserve the balance in the refrigerator.

Place the pastry dough on the floured cloth. Flatten it slightly and turn it over to flour both sides. With the floured rolling pin roll out the dough until it is very thin—it should be about
of an inch.
(During the rolling, roll the pastry up on the pin and then unroll it upside down in order to keep both sides floured.)

Cut into rounds with a 2¾-inch plain, round cookie cutter, cutting them as close to each other as possible and making 50 rounds. As you cut each round, place it over a tartlet pan, ease it gently into place, and press lightly so that it touches the pan all over. (If your fingernails are in the way, use a few scraps of the dough to form a little ball, dip the ball into flour, and press the ball all over the pastry to insure that the dough is completely in place.) Press scraps together and reroll.

Place the pastry-lined pans on a jelly-roll pan or a cookie sheet and transfer to the freezer until the dough is firm. (If you want to leave it overnight or longer at this stage, cover with plastic wrap or aluminum foil.)

While the tartlet shells are freezing, cut 30 small squares of aluminum foil, each one about 3 inches square.

Now, adjust a rack one-third up from the bottom of the oven and preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Line each tartlet shell with a square of the foil and press it firmly into place—keep the lined shells on the jelly-roll pan or cookie sheet. In order to keep the pastry in place and keep it from puffing up, fill the foil with dried beans. (You can use any kind. Save them to use again for the same purpose.) Or use pie pellets (see page 179).

Bake the tartlets for about 12 minutes, reversing the pan front to back once during baking to insure even browning.

After about 10 or 11 minutes check on one of the shells—gently lift the square of foil with the beans in it. The shells should be baked until they are golden-colored. When done, remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 300 degrees.

Gently remove the foil and beans by lifting two opposite sides of each piece of foil.

Either cool the shells completely or fill them while they are still slightly warm.

FILLING

3 ounces (¾ stick) butter, cut into pieces

12 ounces (2 cups) semisweet chocolate morsels

¼ cup light corn syrup

8 egg yolks (the whites may be frozen for some other use)

A few teaspoons of chopped, unsalted green pistachio nuts, walnuts, or pecans

Place the butter and chocolate in the top of a large double boiler over hot water on moderate heat. Cover for a few minutes until almost melted. Then uncover and stir until smooth. Stir in the corn syrup.

In a bowl stir the yolks briefly just to mix and then gradually stir in a few spoonfuls of the hot chocolate mixture. Gradually stir the egg mixture into the remaining chocolate. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes.

Remove the top of the double boiler from the hot water. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl for easier handling. For best results use this filling while it is still warm.

Place a well-rounded teaspoon of the filling in each baked shell, placing it evenly in the center. (It is not necessary to spread the filling—it will run during baking. But place it carefully in the center. I find this is easiest to do by using two demitasse spoons, one for picking up and one for pushing off. But the amount should be the same as a well-rounded regular teaspoon—or 2 well-rounded demitasse spoonfuls.)

With your fingertips, sprinkle a few of the chopped nuts on the center of each Pasticcio.

Make sure that the oven temperature has reduced to 300 degrees—if not, the pastries can wait.

Bake for 12 minutes, reversing the pan front to back once to insure even baking. The tops will feel dry to the touch but the centers will still be soft. Do not overbake!

Remove from the oven. Let stand until cool enough to handle, then use your fingertips to ease
them gently out of the pans and place them on racks until completely cool.

These may stand at room temperature or they may be refrigerated or frozen. And they may be served either at room temperature or chilled or frozen. Try them each way and see which you like best. (The filling will be softer at room temperature, but even when these are frozen it will not be too hard. Of course, if it is too soft chilling will firm it.)

If you are serving Pasticcios as dessert, plan on 3 to a portion.

NOTE
:
A tip from a cateress friend who often makes these in large quantities: Bake the shells as directed, cool slightly, remove them from the tartlet pans and place them on a cookie sheet before filling them. In this way you can make many Pasticcios without so many tartlet pans.

Viennese Chocolate Squares

16
S
MALL
S
QUARES

These are small squares (petits fours) of almost flourless chocolate almond cake with a thin top layer of buttery dark chocolate icing. They are moist, not too sweet (they have no sugar), and are both light and rich. They are easy, quite professional-looking, and delicious. You will like making them and will be proud to serve them. The recipe makes a small number, just right for a few people. If you double it, it must be baked in two pans.