Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (12 page)

2)
Finishing the soup

If necessary: pinches of sugar

1 tsp or more tomato paste

Salt and pepper

Carefully taste for seasoning, adding pinches of sugar to bring out flavor and counteract acidity, and small amounts of tomato paste if needed for color and taste. Remove herb bouquet.

(*) May be prepared ahead to this point.

2 or more Tb minced fresh basil, chervil, or parsley

Serve either hot or chilled, sprinkled with fresh herbs.

SOUPE CATALANE AUX POIVRONS

[Catalonian Pepper and Leek Soup]

Another Mediterranean soup uses the same principles as the preceding
potage Magali
, and the same general ingredients. Here the character comes from sweet peppers rather than tomatoes, a touch of ham or salt pork, and a typically regional final liaison of egg yolks and olive oil.

For 7 to 8 cups, serving 4 to 6

1)
The soup base

2½ to 3 ounces lightly smoked ham or lean salt pork, cut into ¼-inch dice (⅔ cup)

2 Tb olive oil

A heavy-bottomed 3-quart stainless or enameled saucepan with cover

2 cups diced onions

2 cups thinly sliced leeks (or more onions)

1½ cups diced bell peppers, red or green

4 large cloves garlic, minced or mashed

1 Tb flour

1 quart hot water

3 to 4 cups light beef stock, or canned chicken broth

¼ cup pasta (rice- or pepper-corn shaped, or broken vermicelli), or plain white rice

A large pinch of saffron threads

¼ tsp savory

Salt and pepper

Sauté the ham or salt pork in the oil over moderate heat until it barely begins to brown, then stir in the onions and leeks. Cook slowly several minutes until fairly tender but not browned; stir in the peppers and garlic, and cook again for 3 to 4 minutes without browning. Finally sprinkle in the flour, stirring for 1 minute, and remove from heat. Blend in the hot water gradually, stir in the stock or broth, and bring to the simmer; skim off any surface scum for a minute or two, then stir in the pasta or rice. Add the saffron and savory, season to taste, and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes. Carefully correct seasoning.

(*)May be prepared ahead to this point; let cool uncovered. Bring again to the simmer just before serving. You may also make the egg-yolk and oil enrichment in advance and store it in a covered jar.

2)
Finishing the soup

2 egg yolks

A wire whip

A soup tureen or large mixing bowl

¼ cup olive oil

A ladle

Beat the egg yolks in the bottom of the tureen or bowl until thick and sticky; by droplets, beat in the olive oil exactly as though you were making a thick mayonnaise. Stirring it, dribble in the hot soup until you have added 2 cups; gradually stir in the rest. Serve immediately.

  
SOUPE À LA VICTORINE

[Purée of White Bean Soup, Eggplant and Tomato Garnish]

This meal-in-itself will fill up the family on a cold day, especially if you include pork or sausage with the beans. The eggplant and tomato garnish makes a lively and unusual touch to an otherwise traditional bean purée.

For about 8 cups, serving 4 to 6

1)
Soaking the beans—1 hour

1 quart of water

A 3-quart saucepan with cover

⅓ cup dry white beans, such as Great Northern or Small White

Bring the water to a rapid boil, drop in the beans, and bring water rapidly back to the boil again; boil uncovered for exactly 2 minutes. Remove from heat, cover pan, and let soak for exactly 1 hour. Meanwhile, you may prepare all the rest of the ingredients for the soup.

2)
The soup base—1½ hours of simmering

2 cups combination of sliced leeks and onions, or onions only

3 Tb olive oil or butter

An 8-inch enameled, stainless, or no-stick frying pan

2 bay leaves

½ teaspoon thyme

½ teaspoon sage

Optional: ½ lb. lean side pork (fresh unsmoked bacon), or fresh fat-and-lean pork butt (shoulder), or Italian or Polish sausage

1½ tsp salt

⅛ tsp peppercorns

A food mill or an electric blender

Cook the leeks and onions slowly in the oil or butter until tender and translucent; raise heat slightly and cook for a few minutes more until very lightly browned. As soon as the beans have had their 1-hour soak, scrape the vegetables into them, and add the rest of the ingredients for the soup base (if using sausage rather than pork, add only for last 30–40 minutes of cooking). Bring to the simmer, partially cover the pan, and cook slowly for about 1½ hours or until beans are tender. Set pork or sausage aside for final step, purée the soup, and return to the pan.

(*) May be prepared ahead; set aside uncovered until cool.