Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (153 page)

Assembling the casserole

Ingredients for the 2 lbs. sliced, blanched, and sautéed eggplant in preceding recipe, but 2 cups tomato sauce, and the tomato juice and 1 cup coarsely grated Swiss cheese (or ⅔ cup Parmesan if you prefer)

An oiled 3-quart baking dish or casserole such as a round earthenware one 10 inches in diameter at the top and 3 inches deep

¼ cup coarse white bread crumbs, fresh or stale

2 Tb olive oil or melted butter

A rubber spatula

1 cup tomato juice

A cover for the casserole, or aluminum foil

For a round casserole 10 by 3 inches, you will have 4 layers each of eggplant, meat, tomato sauce, and cheese. Arrange them, then, in the casserole in that order, ending with a mixture of cheese and bread crumbs tossed together. Dribble olive oil or melted butter over the top. Drawing edges of ingredients ¼ inch toward center of casserole in several places, pour in the cup of tomato juice.

(*)
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
: May be assembled a day in advance of baking.

Baking and serving—about 1¼ hours at 375 degrees

Cover, heat to simmer on top of stove, and bake as directed in
Step 4
of preceding Master Recipe.

(*)
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
: May be baked in advance and reheated.

TWO RECIPES FOR GREENS

BLETTES GRATINÉES

[Swiss Chard Gratinéed with Cheese Sauce]

This way of serving chard brings out its special flavor, and makes it a most attractive accompaniment to roast beef or chicken. Here both the long white stems and the large green leaves are used, but they are cooked separately before being combined.

For 6 to 8 servings

1)
Preparing the chard

About 10 stalks (2 bunches) fresh chard

Cut the green part of the leaves off the white of the stalk that runs up the center of the leaves. Wash leaves and set aside. Trim off any discolored bits and
ends, wash the long white stalks thoroughly, and cut into ¼-inch slices (makes about 8 cups).

2)
Cooking the white stalks

¼ cup flour (instant-blending works nicely here)

A heavy-bottomed 2½-quart saucepan (no-stick is useful)

A wire whip

1 cup cold water and 2 cups hot water

1 tsp salt

1 Tb lemon juice

The sliced stalks

A wooden spoon

A sieve set over a bowl

Place flour in saucepan. Beating with wire whip, gradually blend in the cold water to make a smooth mixture. Beat in the hot water, salt, and lemon juice, and bring to the simmer, stirring. Add chard stalks and simmer about 30 minutes or until they are tender, stirring occasionally, and adding a little more water, if necessary, to prevent scorching. Drain, reserving cooking liquid. (You will note that the chard stalks acquire a subtle flavor when finally tender, and that they leave a sticky film on the bottom of the pan.)

3)
Cooking the green leaves

The green leaves

A large pan of boiling salted water

A colander

While the stalks are simmering, drop the leaves into the boiling water, bring rapidly back to the boil, and boil uncovered for 5 to 6 minutes or until leaves are fairly tender. Drain, refresh in cold water, squeeze dry a handful at a time, and chop. You will have almost 2 cups; mix them into the cooked stalks.

4)
Sauce and assembly

1 egg yolk

¼ cup heavy cream

A clean saucepan

The stalk-cooking liquid (plus milk if necessary to make 2 cups)

Salt and pepper to taste

A buttered 5- to 6-cup baking dish about 2 inches deep

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 Tb butter

Blend the egg yolk and cream in the saucepan with a wire whip, then gradually blend in the stalk-cooking liquid. Bring to the simmer, stirring, and simmer 1 minute. Correct seasoning. Spoon a layer onto the bottom of the baking dish. Taste the cooked stalks and leaves, and season if necessary. Spread half in the dish, spread on half the sauce and half the cheese. Repeat with the remaining chard, sauce, and cheese and top with the butter, cut into dots.

(*)
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
: May be completed a day before serving; cover with plastic and refrigerate.

5)
Serving

If chard is still warm, set under a slow broiler until just beginning to bubble and top is nicely browned. If cold, set in upper third of preheated 375-degree oven for about 30 minutes just until bubbling hot and top has browned.

GRATIN D’ÉPINARDS AUX OIGNONS

[Spinach
Braised with Onions—also for other greens]

This is creamed spinach with character, which will stand up to steaks, chops, roasts, and broiled fish; you can also serve it with poached eggs and
croûtons.
Although fresh is best, frozen spinach is very successful done this way, as are other greens such as collards, chard, and kale.

For 4 people