Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (98 page)

1)
Marinating the veal in Cognac and truffles

2 to 2½ lbs. veal scallops preferably from the top round, making 10 to 12 slices 6 by 4 inches in diameter and
³
⁄
₁₆
inch thick (or scallopini, 2 or 3 per person)

Waxed paper and a mallet or rolling pin

A dish large enough to hold scallops in several layers

½ cup Cognac

1 or 2 canned truffles, minced, and their juice

Plastic wrap

Trim all filaments, fat, and extraneous matter from scallops. Place them one by one between sheets of waxed paper and pound not too heavily, to break down filaments slightly, and to spread the meat out a little. (This will not be necessary with scallopini.) Arrange the scallops in layers interspersed with sprinklings of Cognac and minced truffles. Pour remaining Cognac and the truffle juices over meat, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside while preparing stuffing.

2)
Ground pork stuffing with ham, truffles, and foie gras—3½ cups

¼ cup finely minced shallots or scallions

1½ Tb butter

A small frying pan

Bowl of heavy-duty mixer, or a large mixing bowl

Sauté the shallots or scallions slowly in the butter for 2 to 3 minutes until tender but not browned. Scrape into bowl.

The following, finely ground together:

12 ounces (1½ cups) lean pork

4 ounces (½ cup)
fresh pork fat

4 ounces (½ cup) lean veal

4 ounces (½ cup) mildcured ham, such as a store-bought, ready-to-cook ham slice

1 tsp salt

⅛ tsp white pepper

Big pinch ground allspice

½ tsp tarragon leaves, finely chopped or powdered

legg

The juices from the marinated scallops, and the truffles

Add all of the rest of the ingredients listed, and beat vigorously by machine or with a wooden spoon to blend thoroughly. Just before starting Step 3, drain marinade liquid into stuffing, scrape truffles off veal,
and beat vigorously into stuffing. To check seasoning, sauté a spoonful until cooked through, taste, and add more salt, pepper, or herbs if needed. (The
foie gras
comes in Step 3.)

3)
Assembling the veal

Either
a piece of
caul fat
16 to 18 inches square;

Or
well-washed cheesecloth, melted butter, and a pastry brush

Salt and pepper

4 to 6 ounces canned
foie gras en bloc
(imported goose liver; read the label)

White string

(If your veal slices are smaller or thinner than the ideal, group them together, adapting meat to the method outlined here.) Spread the caul fat or cheesecloth on a board or tray. Season each scallop of veal lightly with salt and pepper, and build the slices into a closely packed loaf shape, with stuffing and a slice of
foie gras
between each scallop.

If you are using caul fat, fold it securely around the meat; if using cheesecloth, first paint it with melted butter, roll it tightly around circumference, then twist each end tight and tie close against meat with string. Tie a loop of string around length of meat, and wind string back and forth around circumference to keep all in place. You should have a fat sausage shape about 10 inches long.

(*)
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
: Recipe may be prepared a day in advance to this point; wrap airtight and refrigerate.

4)
Browning and braising the veal—about 2 hours

A heavy, covered, flame-proof casserole just large enough to hold meat comfortably, such as a 10- by 12-inch oval 5 inches deep

Rendered goose fat, pork fat, or cooking oil

2 cups chopped veal knuckle and marrow bones

1 medium carrot, roughly chopped

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

1½ to 2 cups excellent veal stock, beef stock, or a mixture of chicken broth and beef bouillon

½ tsp thyme

1 imported bay leaf

Useful: a meat thermometer

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Dry the meat in paper towels. Set casserole over moderately high heat with the fat or oil, and when very hot but not smoking, brown the meat on all sides. (It will brown through
cheesecloth perfectly well.) Remove to a side dish and brown the bones and vegetables. Push them to sides and return meat to casserole; pour in enough stock or bouillon to come halfway up. Strew the herbs around the meat. Bring liquid to the simmer, cover casserole, and set in lower-middle level of preheated oven.

Check casserole in about 20 minutes, and when contents are quietly simmering, reduce oven heat to 325 degrees. Turn the meat twice during cooking and braise about 2 hours in all, or to a meat thermometer reading of 165 to 170 degrees. When done, remove veal to a side dish and let rest 20 minutes in turned-off oven, door ajar; meat must settle before serving so pieces will hold in place.

5)
Sauce and serving

A sieve set over a saucepan

2 tsp cornstarch blended with ¼ cup dry Madeira (Sercial), dry port, or Cognac

A wire whip

Salt and pepper to taste

2 to 3 Tb soft butter

A warm serving bowl

A hot platter

Watercress, parsley sprigs, or whatever vegetable garnish you may have chosen

Strain braising liquid into saucepan. Skim off as much surface fat as you can, and bring liquid to the simmer, skimming off additional fat. Boil down rapidly, if necessary, to about 2 cups; carefully correct seasoning. Remove from heat, blend in the cornstarch mixture, and simmer 2 minutes. Sauce should be lightly thickened.