Maximum Flavor: Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook (21 page)

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Authors: Aki Kamozawa,H. Alexander Talbot

Tags: #Cooking, #Reference, #Courses & Dishes, #General, #Methods

BOOK: Maximum Flavor: Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook
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JUST FIVE INGREDIENTS COMBINE IN THIS RECIPE FOR A
delicious weeknight dish that will forever banish overcooked, bland fish from your dinner table. The bold flavors of this glaze are the perfect foil to the meaty texture of salmon, which caramelizes under the broiler and then finishes cooking while the oven cools. The resulting fish has a firm exterior giving way to moist, tender, silky flesh. It’s delicious paired with
Grilled Leeks Vinaigrette
or a perfect
Potato Gratin
.

SERVES 4

¼ cup 70 grams
white miso

¼ cup 60 grams
maple syrup

1 tablespoon 14 grams
sherry vinegar

½ teaspoon 1 gram
smoked hot paprika

4 (6-ounce 170-gram)
wild Alaskan salmon fillets

In a small bowl, whisk together the miso, maple syrup, vinegar, and paprika. Brush the marinade on the fish, put the fish on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest in the refrigerator for 4 hours.

Preheat the broiler to high. Line a baking sheet with foil.

Lay the fish on the baking sheet, leaving 2 inches (5 cm) of space between each piece. Broil for 5 minutes, positioning the fish about 4 inches (10 cm) from the heat source, until the top is just starting to brown. Turn off the broiler and remove the pan from the oven. Let the fish rest for 10 minutes in a warm spot on top of the stove. It will finish cooking as it rests.

COCONUT STEAMED HALIBUT

THE WARM MOIST HEAT OF A STEAMER IS WONDERFUL FOR
keeping fish juicy. If we happen to have some leftover herb stems or aromatics, we happily add them to the steaming liquid. Layering flavors in a dish is our favorite way to amplify flavor. Here coconut is the star player and we’ve used it in a variety of ways. Coconut oil adds nutty notes and richness to the halibut and Thai basil imparts its spicy flavor as it cooks. The coconut pesto is a twist on another classic preparation; blanching the basil means you can make the sauce in advance without fear of oxidation. Finally the toasted coconut seasoning added at the end gives the dish texture and a hint of crunch.

SERVES 6

HALIBUT

2 pounds 910 grams skin-on
halibut fillet

4½ cups 1,000 grams
water

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons 50 grams
fine sea salt

3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons 50 grams
virgin coconut oil

6 sprigs fresh
Thai basil
or regular basil

COCONUT PESTO

1½ cups 80 grams large
unsweetened coconut flakes

1 teaspoon 4 grams
sugar

⅜ teaspoon 2.25 grams
fine sea salt

⅛ teaspoon 0.3 gram
ground cumin

⅛ teaspoon 0.15 gram
ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon 0.4 gram
garlic powder

6 cups 113 grams fresh
basil leaves

¼ cup 120 grams
cold water

7 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons 100 grams
virgin coconut oil

PREPARE THE HALIBUT:
Cut the halibut into 6 equal pieces. Put the water and salt into a large bowl and stir to dissolve the salt. Put the halibut into the brine for 10 minutes. Remove the fish from the brine and pat it dry.

Put the coconut oil in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave for 30 seconds until it is just melted. Put a 12-inch (30 cm) square of plastic wrap on the counter. Put a piece of halibut in the center of the plastic wrap. Brush coconut oil onto the halibut and then put a sprig of Thai basil on top. Brush the halibut with the coconut oil again. Wrap the halibut in the plastic wrap and repeat with the remaining pieces. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

MAKE THE COCONUT PESTO:
In a medium bowl, stir together the coconut flakes, sugar, ¹/
8
teaspoon (0.75 gram) of the salt, the cumin, cinnamon, and garlic powder. Transfer to the baking sheet and bake until the flakes are golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven, stir the coconut, and let cool.

Transfer the toasted coconut to a pan in an outdoor or stovetop smoker and
smoke
for 15 minutes. Remove the flakes from the smoker and let cool. Put the coconut in a zip-top bag until ready to use, or for up to 3 days.

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Blanch the basil leaves for 30 seconds, working with
about one-third at a time, and transfer to an ice water bath. Drain the basil and squeeze it dry. Put the basil, 1 cup (53 grams) of the smoked toasted coconut flakes, the water, coconut oil, and remaining ¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) salt into a blender. Turn the blender on low and increase the speed to medium. Blend for 1 minute. Turn off the blender and scrape down the sides. Turn the blender back on, increase the speed to high, and puree until the mixture is completely smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer the pesto to a covered container and store in the refrigerator until ready to use (up to 24 hours).

Put 2 inches (5 cm) of water into a large steamer set over high heat. When the water is boiling, unwrap the halibut and put the fish into the steamer. Turn the heat down to medium-high and steam the fish for 5 minutes. Turn the steamer off and let the fish steam for 2 more minutes.

Remove the fish from the steamer and set on a clean plate. Put the coconut pesto into a small saucepan and gently warm it over medium heat to just melt the coconut oil. Gently lift the skin off the fish and put the fish on each of 6 plates. Top with some of the coconut pesto and then sprinkle with the remaining ½ cup (26 grams) smoked toasted coconut flakes.

PESTO is a classic Italian sauce, commonly associated with Genoa. Traditionally it is made with fresh basil, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil and hard cheeses, like Parmigiano Reggiano and Fiore Sardo. It was originally made in a mortar and pestle and the ingredients were ground together to make an aromatic sauce. These days pesto has developed a more elastic description. Creative cooks vary the type of herb, nuts, cheeses, and even the oil used to make the sauce. The results, while in no way authentic, are still delicious. It’s the American way to mix and match to make things our own and that is fine as long as in the end it still makes for a great meal.

CHICKEN PIE
KOREAN-STYLE CHICKEN WINGS
OVEN-FRIED LEMON CHICKEN
GENERAL TSO’S CHICKEN
CHINESE SPARERIBS
SLOW-ROASTED LAMB SHOULDER WITH SMOKED RAISIN RELISH
BUTTER BURGER
GRILLED RIB EYES WITH SEAWEED SALSA VERDE
BLUE CHEESE–CURED CHATEAUBRIAND
ROASTED SHORT RIBS
SLOW-COOKED PORTERHOUSE
PEPPERONI LASAGNA

CHICKEN PIE

WE ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT PIE, SO WHEN IT CAME TO MAKING
a great
chicken pie, we wanted one where the meat was still juicy and the vegetables were tender but still distinct and flavorful. The best chicken pie must be made with savory pie dough and meaty gravy that keeps everything moist. Whole chicken thighs are juicy and flavorful and we make a pressure-cooked broth using the skin and bones for the gravy. Nothing goes to waste and the finished pie is close to perfect.

SERVES 6

CHICKEN AND BROTH

2¼ pounds 1,020 grams bone-in, skin-on
chicken thighs
(about 6 large)

¼ cup 24 grams
tapioca starch

¾ teaspoon 4.5 grams
fine sea salt

1 medium
onion,
diced

2
garlic
cloves, crushed

¼ cup 65 grams
tamari soy sauce

2 cups 450 grams
water

PIE CRUST

2¼ cups 337.5 grams
all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon 6 grams
fine sea salt

1 teaspoon 4 grams
sugar

½ teaspoon 1 gram
garlic powder

½ teaspoon 1 gram
onion powder

8 ounces 225 grams cold
unsalted butter,
diced

½ cup 113 grams
ice water

PIE FILLING

2 large
russet potatoes

2 tablespoons 14 grams
cornstarch

2 tablespoons 28 grams
olive oil

1 medium
onion,
chopped

3 medium
carrots,
cut into ½-inch 13 mm pieces

3 medium
celery ribs,
cut into ½-inch 13 mm pieces

½ cup 70 grams
frozen green peas,
thawed

Fine sea salt

1 tablespoon 16 grams
whole milk

Fleur de sel

Black pepper

PREPARE THE CHICKEN:
Skin the thighs and cut out the bones; set the skin and bones aside. Cut the meat of each thigh in half and then cut each half into thirds. Put the chicken meat in a small bowl, add the tapioca starch and ½ teaspoon (3 grams) of the salt, and mix gently to combine. Cover and reserve in the refrigerator for the filling.

MAKE THE BROTH:
Put the reserved skin and bones in a pressure cooker with the onion, garlic, soy sauce, water, and remaining ¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) salt. Cook at high pressure for 30 minutes. Let the pressure dissipate naturally. Strain the chicken broth into a bowl and cool it over an ice water bath. Measure out 1 cup for the gravy. Freeze the remainder for another use.

MAKE THE PIE CRUST:
In a food processor, combine the flour, salt, sugar, garlic powder, and onion powder and pulse 4 or 5 times to blend. Add the butter and pulse 2 or 3 times to blend. Pour the ice water into the food processor and run the processor for 5 to 10 seconds to bring the mixture together. If it seems a little dry, add more water 1 tablespoon at a time. The dough will resemble small pebbles and hold together when you squeeze a bit in your hand. Turn the dough out onto a floured countertop. Sprinkle the dough lightly with flour. Starting at one end, use the heel of your hand to smear the dough into the counter in small amounts. Do this quickly, being sure not to work any section of dough more than once. This technique, known as fraisage, forms flaky layers of fat and flour. Use a bench scraper or spatula to remove the pieces of dough from the countertop. Gently press them into 2 compact balls of dough and flatten into discs, one slightly larger than the other, each no more than 2 inches (5 cm) thick. You can roll them out and use immediately or freeze for up to 1 month; alternatively, the dough can be wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Let the refrigerated dough rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before rolling.

Roll out the larger piece of dough into a circle with a diameter of 12 inches (30 cm) and that’s about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick, and fit it into a 9-inch (23 cm) deep-dish pie pan. Trim the overhang to 1 inch (2.5 cm) past the edge of the pie pan. Put the pie pan in the freezer while you prepare the filling. Roll the smaller half out into a round about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. Set it on a parchment paper– or plastic wrap–lined baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and put in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it.

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