Spiced Rice with Toasty Nuts, 169–70
Watercress and Beet Salad with Almonds, 88–89
Small plates
Almond Soup, 77–78
Anise- and Fennel-Spiced Walnuts, 32
Avocado with Pistachio Oil and Chives, 62
Brazil Nut Pesto with Pasta, 58–59
Cinnamon Pecans, 26
Cocoa Nuts with Fleur de Sel, 28–29
Dried Apricot, Lemon, and Almond Bread, 44–45
Dukkah, 50–51
Eggplant with Saffron Walnuts, 56–57
Fiona’s Almond and Olive Sandwich, 75–76
Focaccia with Onions and Almonds, 79–80
Fresh Goat Cheese, Cream, and Walnut Verrine, 38–39
Green Beans, White Peaches, and Almonds, 60–61
Green Mango or Papaya Salad–Som Tam, 54–55
Grilled Vegetable Tarts with Pumpkin Seeds, 68–69
Kaffir Peanuts, 30–31
Lime and Pepper Cashews, 27
Malloreddus de Kita Santa–Tiny Sardinian Gnocchi for Good Friday, 66–67
Muhammara–Heavenly Red Peppers and Walnuts, 42–43
Mushroom and Walnut Tarte Tatin, 71–72
Parmigiano-Reggiano Seed Sticks, 40–41
Parsley, Green Olive, and Walnut Salad, 63
Salted Spanish Almonds, 33
Savory Bread with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Pine Nuts, and Pistachios, 48–49
Savory Squash and Cheese Bread, 46
Smoked Salmon with Horseradish Cream and Almonds, 36–37
Toasted Mixed Nuts and Seeds Fait Maison, 34–35
Tomato and Pistachio Croustillant, 73–74
Unbeatable Red Beets and Walnuts, 64–65
Walnut and Cheese Crackers, 52–53
Yeast Seed Crackers, 81–83
Som Tam–Green Mango or Papaya Salad, 54–55
Soup, Almond, 77–78
Spinach
Gorgeous Green, with New Garlic, 158–59
Marinated Fish with Sesame and Macadamias, 115–16
Squash
Butternut, and Arugula Salad, 96–97
Butternut, with Leeks and Pecans, 156–57
and Cheese Bread, Savory, 46
Grilled Vegetable Tarts with Pumpkin Seeds, 68–69
Sticky Rice, Coconut, with Peanuts, 182–84
Sunflower seeds
Crunchy Granola, 4–5
health benefits, xix
Toasted Mixed Nuts and Seeds Fait Maison, 34–35
T
Tagine from Le Casbah, 141–42
Tart Pastry, Tender, On Rue Tatin’s, 237
Tarts
Grilled Vegetable, with Pumpkin Seeds, 68–69
Mushroom and Walnut Tarte Tatin, 71–72
Tomato and Pistachio Croustillant, 73–74
Tofu Satay, 146–47
Tomato and Pistachio Croustillant, 73–74
Tomatoes, Sun-Dried, Pine Nuts, and Pistachios, Savory Bread with, 48–49
Torte, Wenatchee, 190
Tourte, Walnut Coffee, with Coffee Frosting, 218–19
V
Vegetable(s).
See also specific vegetables
Grilled, Tarts with Pumpkin Seeds, 68–69
W
Waffles with Walnut Whipped Cream, 20–21
Walnut(s)
and Almond Cookies, Spiced–Joanne’s Pfefferneuse, 191–92
Anise- and Fennel-Spiced, 32
and Apricots, Lamb Shoulder with, 124–25
Cake, Jacqueline’s, 209–10
and Cheese Crackers, 52–53
Coffee Tourte with Coffee Frosting, 218–19
Fresh Goat Cheese, and Cream Verrine, 38–39
health benefits, xviii and Horseradish, Hanger Steak with, 121–23
Malloreddus de Kita Santa–Tiny Sardinian Gnocchi for Good Friday, 66–67
and Mushroom Tarte Tatin, 71–72
Parsley, and Green Olive Salad, 63
and Parsnip Fricassee, 162–63
and Red Beets, Unbeatable, 64–65
and Red Peppers, Heavenly–Muhammara, 42–43
Saffron, Eggplant with, 56–57
and Saffron, Millet with, 87
Toasted Mixed Nuts and Seeds Fait Maison, 34–35
Wenatchee Apple Torte, 190
Whipped Cream, Waffles with, 20–21
Watercress and Beet Salad with Almonds, 88–89
Wenatchee Apple Torte, 190
Y
Yeast Seed Crackers, 81–83
Yogurt and Pistachios, Potatoes with, 160–61
Yogurt Cake, Fiona’s, 214–15
Z
Zucchini
Grilled Vegetable Tarts with Pumpkin Seeds, 68–69
It always feels just the slightest bit unfair to claim sole authorship of a book, because so many helpful hands and brains are behind it. So I claim authorship only after thanking those others, often behind the scenes, who made it happen.
There are so many…where to begin? With Lena Sodergren, I think. She is my dearest friend and neighbor, and without her friendship and the sheer number of delectable recipes she brought my way, this book wouldn’t have come into being. Lena, you’re a godsend.
To Patricia Wells, one of few who didn’t snicker at nuts and whose conversation and friendship continue to be dear and compelling, even when we’re discussing the best way to toast a nut!
To Marion Pruitt, whose gift of hilarity has had me clutching my stomach on more than one occasion as she and I, through the offices of e-mail and telephone, talk recipes and life.
To warm and wonderful James Navé, whose gift with words has enriched me beyond measure.
To Laura Shapiro, another nonsnickerer and source of inspiration, laughter, great ideas, and general all-around support.
To Harold McGee, friend and colleague, whose response to my endless questions was always rapid and generous.
To my friends Françoise Doré and Alain Juvenon, whose insights and analyses on things in life and art are a constant source of fascination.
To Barbara Leopold, recipe tester and friend, who sticks with me through thick, thin, cakes, soups, and stews, always with elegance.
To Jane Sigal, friend and colleague, emergency recipe tester, and discotheque companion.
To dear Angela Miller, my agent, who encourages, supports, and wastes no words or time in doing so!
To Harriet Bell, editor, friend, lunch
mate—your wicked good humor keeps me laughing, and your editing is a blessing. And to Lyssa, for her ministrations.
To Mary Ellen O’Neill, editor, who swooped in with rapier wit, intelligence, and enthusiasm to gracefully usher this book to production.
To Mac Mackie, assistant editor extraordinaire; to Tavia Kowalchuk, Joanne Minutillo, and Shawn Nicholls for their bright and smart work in making this book known.
As I waded through nutrition information about nuts I became hopelessly muddled and confused by all the claims and counterclaims. I’d been in a similar state as I tried to unravel the nutrition of seafood, and I remembered who’d thrown out the line that pulled me in to the truth. It was Dr. Joyce Nettleton, a nutritionist, food scientist, and author. She has many books to her credit and currently writes a terrific blog called fatsoflife.com. I sent her a plea for help, and she responded, guiding me to the truth about nut nutrition. Joyce is a fine and careful scientist who refuses to walk on thin ice when it comes to nutrition. Here’s a glass of vino tinto to you, Joyce!
My trip to east Anatolia wouldn’t have been possible without the help of Sara Baer-Sinnott of Oldways Preservation and Trust. Through Sara’s help came one of the angels of this book, Filiz Hosukuglo, cooking consultant and writer from Gaziantep, Turkey. Filiz was my “open sesame” to everything about nuts, Anatolian cuisine, and a host of great adventures in and around Gaziantep. I also thank dear Paula Wolfert, friend and colleague, whose constant generosity and encouragement remain undiminished. Thank you, too, to Necmettin Kaymaz, Dr. Kamil Sarpkaya, to Mustafa Ozguler for his
katmer
and
loukoum,
and last but far from least, to the Singing Syrians, dear Temim Kasmo, Hamza Hamza, and Mahmoud Zein Alabidin.
My trip to Thailand was magical, thanks to Andrew Ricker, who was the sole instrument of its creation. I owe him greatly for his depth of knowledge and friendly generosity, for he even went so far as to climb on the head of an elephant with me, something he’d said he would never do. Thank you, too, to Sunny Bowornat and Sunneemas Noree, food and cooking friends and colleagues.
Others I want to thank for their generosity, help, and friendship include Johan Sodergren in Sweden, Kerrie Luzum in Italy, Manuela Devisme in southern Spain, my sweet Eloise Perret in France, Carolyn Johnson in France, Karen Coates in New Mexico and Asia, Anne Leblanc and the entire Leblanc family in France, Doris and Joe Herrmann—Mother and Dad—in Portland, Oregon.
Without my friends in Louviers, working on this book would have been a dry and lonely pursuit, for they tasted, they laughed, they comforted, they encouraged. I salute you, Betty Phillipe and Louis Garcia, Babette and Jean-Lou Dawaele, Edith and Bernard Leroy, Michel and Chantal Amsalem, Christian and Nadine Devisme, Hervé Lestage, everyone in
my wine tasting group, particularly Fred Heldt, Marie Boivin, Patricia and Baptiste Bourdon. Thank you to everyone at Clet Epicerie Fine, particularly Isabelle, to Mr. Dragonelli at Boucherie des Saisons, to everyone at Pâtisserie Nicolas Gosselin.
Thank you to my friend Lisa Higgins at
Metropolitan Home
magazine, for her loyalty, to Karen Taylor, editor of
France
magazine, Judy Fayard, editor of
France Today,
and Mary Margaret Chappell, food editor for
Vegetarian Times.
A big thank-you to Mr. Frederic Rosengarten, Jr., whom I have not met but whose wonderful book
The Book of Edible Nuts
is a work of true passion and scholarship.
SUSAN HERRMANN LOOMIS
is the author of eight books, including six cookbooks. She is a regular contributor to
Bon Appétit, Cooking Light, Food & Wine,
and the
New York Times.
She owns and operates On Rue Tatin, a cooking school in Normandy, France.
www.onruetatin.com
Visit www.AuthorTracker.com for exclusive information on your favorite HarperCollins author.
The Great American Seafood Cookbook
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Tarte Tatin
Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin
Cover design by Mary Schuck
Cover photograph © by James Baigrie/Getty Images
NUTS IN THE KITCHEN
. Copyright © 2010 by Susan Herrmann Loomis. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
FIRST EDITION
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Loomis, Susan Herrmann.
Nuts in the Kitchen: more than 100 recipes for every taste and occasion / Susan Herrmann Loomis.—1st ed.
p. cm.
ISBN 978-0-06-123501-6
1. Cookery (Nuts) 2. Nuts. I. Title.
TX814.L66 2010
641.6'45—dc22 2009044019
EPub Edition © April 2010 ISBN: 978-0-06-199129-5
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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