Omelette and a Glass of Wine (52 page)

galantines of duck,
58
,
62
,
65

game

pheasant
à la Hannibal
,
132

à la Normande
,
189
–
90

potted,
223
–
4

geoduck,
138

German cheeses,
15
8
–
9

Gigondas,
80
,
82
,
84

Gilbert, Philéas:
La Cuisine de Tous les Mois
,
287

gin,
190
,
223

gingerbread, George Washington’s mother’s,
159

ginger cream,
290

Ginny (Guinea) pepper,
119n
.

Glasse, Hannah:
The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy
,
199
,
240

glyka
,
29

Go
,
9
,
17
,
192
–
7

Goldsmith, Oliver,
198

Good Food Guide
,
49

goose with chestnut and apples,
292
–
3

goose fat,
293

gooseberry

cream,
242

fool,
238
,
239
,
240
–
41

travesty of,
299

huff,
242

trifle,
240

Gourmet
,
120
–
24
,
249
–
53

Greek Anthology, the,
125
,
133

Greek food,
22
–
3
,
29
,
151

Green, Patricia,
66

Greene, Graham,
125
,
130

greengrocers in Britain,
47
,
209

Grenfell, Joyce,
288

Grey, Diana,
106

grillade des mariniers du Rhône
,
252
,
273

grouper,
142

grouse, potted,
223
–
4

Guérard, Michel,
11

Cuisine Gourmande
,
181
–
2
,
184
,
185n
.

Guide Bleu
85

Guide Michelin
,
49
,
53
–
4
,
63
,
68
–
9
,
84

ommissions,
88

red R,
69

unreliability of one-star quality,
56
,
67
,
79
–
81
,
282

value at two-star hotels,
56
–
7

Guinness,
160

haddock, Arbroath smokies,
217
–
18

ham, potted,
222

Hamilton, Gerald,
164

Hamilton, Iain,
10

Hammond, Elizabeth:
Modern Domestic Cookery
,
238
,
240

Hannibal,
272

Harper’s Bazaar
,
9

Heath, Ambrose:
Good Food
,
190

Henry IV of France,
278

Henry VIII,
198

Herbal Review, The
,
106
–
12

Herbert, Col. Kenney,
10

Herbodeau, Eugène, and Paul Thalamas:
George Auguste Escoffier
,
216

Hièly restaurant, Avignon,
79
–
81

Hill, Derek,
117
,
119

Hill, Jason,
165

homard à l’américaine
,
145
,
179

honey,
285

tomato,
213

hop-shoots,
106
–
13

buds, no

hop-top soup,
111

omelette,
112

soup (
zuppa di luppoli
),
110
–
11

Hôtel du Midi, Lamastre,
53
–
63

House and Garden
,
9
–
10
,
85
–
7
,
292
–
3

huff,
242n
.

Hughes, Therle:
Sweetmeat and Jelly Glasses
,
237n
.

ice cream,
240

ginger,
290

India,
10
,
195

Inglis, Brian,
10

Irish coffee,
159
–
60

Italy

cheeses of,
118
,
281

food of,
14
,
98
–
9
,
104
,
106
–
13
,
113
–
19
,
280
–
83

wines of,
101
–
4
,
117
,
283

See also
restaurants

jam,
29
,
46
–
7
,
151

rhubarb,
299

tomato,
212
–
13

James II,
269

James, Henry:
A Little Tour of France
,
72

Jewish cookery,
181
–
2

John Dory,
141
,
191
,
270

Johnson, Hugh,
17
,
246

junket rennet,
206

Kaufeier, M.,
39

Kent, Countess of:
A Choice Manual
,
243

Kettner’s,
195

kipper paste,
227

Kiwi fruit,
209n
.

Laboureur, J.E.,
164
–
6

La Chapelle, Vincent:
The Modern Cook
,
240n
.

Lamastre,
53
–
62
,
272

lamb

breast of, Ste. Ménéhould,
38
–
9

carré d’agneau Mistral
,
250

gigot bouilli à l’anglaise
,
153
–
4

undercooked by English standards,
60

Lancaster, Osbert,
126

Larousse Gastronomique
,
301

Latini, Antonio:
Lo Scalco alla Moderna
,
119

La Varenne, François:
French Cook
,
241

Lawrence, D.H.,
131

left-overs,
146
,
153

Lehmann, John,
22

lemons,
198
–
201

cheese-cake,
200

curative properties,
201

curd, English,
199
–
200

grating,
199

juice,
198
–
9

pie,
200

preserved in cloves,
201

syllabub,
234

lentils,
198
,
272

Levin, Bernard,
10

Llanover, Lady:
Good Cookery
,
161
,
293
–
9

Llanover, Lord (Benjamin),
293

lobster,
187
,
189

à l’américaine
,
145
,
179

cooking of,
32

Courchamps,
190
–
2

potted,
226
–
7

locust bread,
143

Lowinsky, Ruth:
Lovely Food
,
239
–
40
,
246

Lowinsky, Thomas,
239
,
246

Luke, Sir Harry:
The Tenth Muse
,
10
,
150
–
51
,
248

lump sugar,
199

luppoli
(hop-shoots),
108
,
110
–
11
,
112

Lyon,
70
–
72

Lyons, J., & Co.,
11
–
12

McGovern, William,
98n
.

MacIver, Susannah:
Cookery and Pastry
,
238

Mackenzie, Faith Compton,
126

McLeod, Ian,
10

McNeill, Marian:
The Scots Kitchen
,
235

mangetout
(sugar peas),
104

Manzoni, Alessandro,
112

markets in France,
72
–
3
,
76
–
8
,
255
–
74

Marples, Ernest,
148n
.

Martigues,
267
–
70

Martino, Maestro:
Epulario
,
248

Mason, Mrs Charlotte:
The Lady’s Assistant
,
111

Maupassant, Guy de:
Boule de Suif
,
263

May, Robert:
The Accomplisht Cook
,
231
–
2
,
238
,
242
–
3

mayonnaise,
25
–
7
,
191

mazapan
,
96

Mediterranean, food of the,
22
–
4
,
76
–
8
,
94
–
7
,
198
,
208
–
10
,
139
–
42
,
208
–
10
,
270

Mendl, Lady:
Recipes for Successful Dining
,
186

menus in Edwardian days,
194
–
7

Merle’s
Domestic Dictionary and Household Manual
,
226

Michelin,
see
Guide Michelin

Middle East, food of the,
21
–
5
,
143
, Midland Hotel, London,
192
–
4

Mikes, George,
19

milk cheeses,
see
cheese

Miss Leslie’s Complete Cookery
,
213

Mistral, Frédéric,
250

Montpellier,
263
–
5

Mont-St-Michel,
49

Moorish food,
143

Morra truffle paste,
282

Morris, Cedric,
165

Mortimer, Raymond,
15
,
56

Muffet, Dr:
Health’s Improvement
,
108
–
9

mulberries,
247
–
9

and almonds,
248

cream,
242

as dessert fruit,
249

sauce (
sapore di morone)
,
248

summer pudding,
247

water ice,
248

mullet, red,
133