Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli (28 page)

88
. Barry Glassner, “Fitness and the Postmodern Self,”
Journal of Health and Social Behavior
30 (6/1989): 183.

89
. Glassner, “Fitness and the Postmodern Self,” 186.

90
. Carroll,
It Seemed Like Nothing Happened
, 310.

91
. “Eating Right for Less: Salt and Fats Linked to Health,”
Milwaukee Journal
(11/24/1975), 23.

92
. Barbara Gibbons, “Slim Gourmet,”
Reading Eagle
(4/13/1977), 41.

93
. Robert C. Atkins,
Dr. Atkins’ Diet Revolution
(New York: Bantam, 1981), 269–270.

94
. See Frances Moore Lappe,
Diet for a Small Planet
(New York: Ballantine Books, 1971).

95
. Isadore Barmash, “The Big Kosher Salami War,”
New York Times
(6/6/1987), 37.

96
. Stop & Shop advertisement,
The Hour
(Norwalk, CT) (5/25/1977), 15.

97
. Leonard S. Bernstein, “Death by Pastrami,”
Literary Review
, Spring 2001, reprinted in Leonard S. Bernstein,
The Man Who Wanted to Buy a Heart
(New York: UNO, 2012).

98
. “The Fatigues,”
Seinfeld
, season 8, episode 6, originally aired 10/31/1996 (Sony Pictures, 2012), DVD.

99
. Josh Kun, “The Yiddish Are Coming; Mickey Katz, Antic-Semitism, and the Sound of Jewish Difference,”
American Jewish History
87.4 (1999): 368.

100
. M. Cohen,
Overweight Sensation
, 88.

101
. Ken Kalfus, “Shine On, Harvey Bloom,”
Commonweal
(4/22/1994), 15.

102
. Gerald Nachman,
Seriously Funny: The Rebel Comedians of the 1950s and 1960s
(New York: Pantheon, 2003), 19.

103
. Isaac Rosenfeld, “Adam and Eve on Delancey Street,” in
Preserving the Hunger: An Isaac Rosenfeld Reader
, ed. Mark Shechner (Detroit: Wayne State University Press, 1988), 146–147.

104
. Eve Jochnowitz, “‘Send a Salami to Your Boy in the Army’: Sites of Jewish Memory and Identity at Lower East Side Restaurants,” in Hasia R. Diner, Beth Wenger, and Jeffrey Shandler, eds.,
Remembering the Lower East Side
(Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2000), 212–225.

105
. See Dana Evan Kaplan,
Contemporary American Judaism: Transformation and Renewal
(New York: Columbia University Press, 2009), 161–205.

106
.
Skyscraper
, book by Peter Stone, lyrics by Sammy Cahn, and music by Jimmy Van Heusen, 1965 original cast recording (DRG, 2002), CD.

107
. Woody Allen, “Thus Ate Zarathustra,”
New Yorker
(7/3/2006).

108
. Shepard Sobel, “From the Director,” in
A Playgoer’s Supplement to Hamlet
, Pearl Theatre Company, 2007–2008 season brochure, 8.

109
. Henry Bial,
Acting Jewish: Negotiating Ethnicity on the American Stage and Screen
(Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 2005), 98.

110
. See Norbert Elias,
The Civilizing Process: Sociogenetic and Psychogenetic Investigations
, rev. ed. (Oxford, UK: Wiley-Blackwell, 2000).

111
.
When Harry Met Sally
, directed by Rob Reiner (MGM, 1989), DVD.

112
.
Making Trouble
, directed by Rachel Talbott (Jewish Women’s Archive, 2007), DVD.

113
. See “‘When Harry Met Sally’: Flash Mob Recreates Iconic Deli Scene,”
Hollywood Reporter
(11/14/2013). For the video, see Improv Everywhere, “Harry Met Sally Orgasm Scene Prank—Movies in Real Live (Ep 7),” YouTube (11/12/2013), http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shC016PnxPs.

114
.
Broadway Danny Rose
, directed by Woody Allen (Orion Pictures, 1984), DVD.

115
. Jeffrey Rubin-Dorsky, “The Catskills Reinvented (and Redeemed): Woody Allen’s
Broadway Danny Rose
,”
Kenyon Review
25.3 (2003): 264–281. This deli connection is made throughout Allen’s oeuvre; in
Bananas
, for example, Allen’s character orders a thousand sandwiches with coleslaw from a band of revolutionaries in the jungle.
Bananas
, directed by Woody Allen (MGM, 2000), DVD.

116
. “The Larry David Sandwich,”
Curb Your Enthusiasm
, season 5, episode 1, originally aired 9/25/2005 (HBO Studios, 2006), DVD.

117
. Kenneth A. Briggs, “Orthodox Judaism Is Buoyed by a Resurgence in New York,”
New York Times
(3/29/1983), A1.

118
. Bryan Miller, “Kosher Dining Out: The Options Grow,”
New York Times
(10/8/1986), C1.

119
. Jacqueline Rivkin, “The Ys of a Kosher Cooking School,”
Kosher Gourmet
(3/1989), 6–7.

120
. Jacqueline Rivkin, “Kosher Gourmet Clubs Provide Adventurous Eating,”
Kosher Gourmet
(6–8/1987), 6.

121
. Sam Levenson, “Oh Cuisine!,”
Saturday Review
(3/1/1980).

122
. Richard Jay Scholem, “A Stalwart of Old-Fashioned Deli Fare,”
New York Times
(1/18/1998).

123
. Joseph Berger, “As Delis Dwindle, Traditions Lose Bite,”
New York Times
(5/15/1998), B1.

124
. “Facts about New York City,”
Harpers
(4/1998).

125
. Jonathan Mark, “When the Bronx Had Delis,”
New York Jewish Week
(3/15/1996).

126
. Quoted in Ted Merwin, “Serving Up Food with Attitude.”
Text/Context
, supplement to
New York Jewish Week
(4/3/2009), http://www.thejewishweek.com/special_sections/text_context/serving_food_attitude.

127
. David M. Herszenhorn, “Knishes or Kimchi: Last Kosher Deli Closes on Union Street,”
New York Times
(8/6/1995), C6.

128
. Samuel Freedman, “Indiana Pastrami? Hebrew National Plans Move,”
New York Times
(8/8/1986), B3.

129
. Elliot Weiss, “Packaging Jewishness: Novelty and Tradition in Kosher Food Packaging,”
Design Issues
20.1 (2004): 48.

1
. Quoted in Ted Merwin, “Hold Your Tongue,”
New York Jewish Week
(1/13/2006).

2
. Andy Newman, “Hold the Mustard, Maybe Forever,”
New York Times
(1/6/2006), 1.

3
. Ron Rosenbaum, “Where Is the Schmaltz of Yesteryear? Christmas Eve in a Jewish Deli,”
Slate
(12/27/2007), http://www.slate.com/id/2180953.

4
. Adam Gopnik,
Through the Children’s Gate: A Home in New York
(New York: Random House, 2007), 64–65.

5
.
What a Pickle: The World’s Greatest Deli Musical
, directed by Henry Chalfant and Wayne Lammers (Tribabka Films, 1999), VHS.

6
. See David Sax, “Shiva for the Stage Deli,”
The Jew & the Carrot
(blog),
Forward
(11/30/2012), http://blogs.forward.com/the-jew-and-the-carrot/167020/shiva-for-the-stage-deli/. See also Ted Merwin, “The American Dream, on Rye,”
New York Jewish Week
(12/11/2012).

7
. Stewart Ain, “Kosher Delis Close across Long Island,”
New York Jewish Week
(4/2/2014).

8
. Interview with the author, 5/23/2014.

9
. Andrew Adam Newman, “After 123 Years, Manischewitz Creates Kosher Food for Gentiles,”
New York Times
(12/26/2011), B3.

10
. William Alden, “Equity Fund Buys Maker of Matzos,”
New York Times
(4/7/2014), B4.

11
. Paul Rudnick, “Yummy” (Shouts and Murmurs),
New Yorker
(6/2/2014), 35. The idea of serving deli food to Christians on Christmas Eve also animates Mike Reiss’s comical children’s book about a deli owner who fills in for Santa Claus. See Mike Reiss,
How Murray Saved Christmas
, illustrated by David Catrow (New York: Puffin, 2004).

12
. See Jeffrey Shandler,
Adventures in Yiddishland
:
Postvernacular Language and Culture
(Berkeley: University of California Press, 2005); and David Hollinger,
Postethnic America: Beyond Multiculturalism
(New York: Basic Books, 2006).

13
. Pierre Nora, “Between Memory and History,” in Lawrence D. Kritzman, ed.,
Realms of Memory: Rethinking the French Past
(New York: Columbia University Press, 1996), 12.

14
. Nora, “Between Memory and History,” 11.

15
. Willensky,
When Brooklyn Was the World
, 190.

16
. Fred Davis,
Yearning for Yesterday: A Sociology of Nostalgia
(New York: Free Press, 1979), 31.

17
. Interview with the author, 3/12/2008.

18
. Mimi Sheraton, “Lost, Then Found—New York Classics,”
New York Times
(7/31/2012), D1.

19
. Quoted in R. W. Apple, “Bagging the Endangered Sandwich,”
New York Times
(9/15/1999), F13.

20
. Darra Goldstein, “From the Editor: Food from the Heart,”
Gastronomica
4.1 (2004), http://www.gastronomica.org/food-from-the-heart/.

21
. Daina Beth Solomon, “Wexler’s Brings the Deli Revolution to L.A.,”
Forward
(5/7/2014).

22
. Julia Moskin, “Everything New Is Old Again,”
New York Times
(5/27/2014).

23
. Michael Kaminer, “The New York Jewish Deli Meets the 21st Century, and the Results Are Geshmak,”
Washington Post
(7/17/2014).

24
. Devra Ferst, “Shabbat Dinner Faces the Future with Panache,”
Forward
(10/17/2012).

25
. Panel discussion at ABC Carpet, New York City Wine and Food Festival, 10/13/2012.

26
. Josh Ozersky and David Sax, “Debating the Deli,”
Jewish Daily Forward
video on Vimeo, http://vimeo.com/58913579 (accessed 3/21/2014).

27
. Julia Moskin, “Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?,”
New York Times
(4/14/2010), D1. See also Bonnie Hulkower, “Michael Pollan, Saul’s Deli Secret Pastrami Hawker?,”
Treehugger
(3/2/2010), http://www.treehugger.com/green-food/michael-pollan-sauls-deli-secret-pastrami-hawker.html.

28
. Moskin, “Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?”

29
. Glenn Collins, “Beef from Creekstone Farms Impresses New York Chefs,”
New York Times
(3/24/2010), D1.

30
. Interview with author, 10/13/2012.

31
. Interview with the author, 10/19/2013.

32
. Moskin, “Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?”

33
. Interview with author, 10/19/2013.

34
. Noah Bernamoff and Rae Bernamoff,
The Mile End Cookbook: Redefining Jewish Comfort Food from Hash to Hamantaschen
(New York: Clarkson Potter, 2012), 14.

35
. Interview with author, 10/13/2012.

36
. Margaret Eby, “Mile End, Russ and Daughters Both Plan Bars,”
Forward
(9/22/2013).

37
. Interview with Michelle Kiefer, 5/20/2011, Nona Brooklyn, http://nonabrooklyn.com/deli-defiant-mile-end%E2%80%99s-noah-bernamoff-does-it-his-way/#.UZNxJzfCuZA (accessed 8/15/2012).

38
. Moskin, “Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?”

39
. Interview with the author, 10/19/2012.

40
. Lisa Keys, “High on the Hog,”
Tablet
(2/5/2010), http://tabletmag.com/jewish-life-and-religion/25147/high-on-the-hog.

41
. Josh Ozersky, “How Traif Came to Williamsburg,”
Huffington Post
(12/15/2010), http://www.huffingtonpost.com/josh-ozersky/how-traif-came-to-william_b_796891.html.

42
. Adeena Sussman, “Haimish to Haute in New York,”
Forward
(3/28/2012).

43
. See Sarah Zorn, “Our Favorite Jewish-ish Dishes,”
Brooklyn Magazine
(11/12/2013).

44
. Mary Kong-Devito, “Bigger Is Better at Harold’s Deli,”
Girl Meets Food
(blog) (12/7/2009), http://dc.eater.com/tags/girl-meets-food.

45
. “Mother of Mercy! Is This the End of Katz’s?,”
New York
(5/17/2007), http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2007/05/mother_of_mercy_is_this_the_en.html.

46
. “Food and Drink,” in Kenneth M. Gold and Lori R. Weintrob, eds.,
Discovering Staten Island: A 350th Anniversary Commemorative History
(New York: History Press, 2011), 88.

47
. Bonnie Goodman, “The Higher East Side of New York,”
PresenTense
(blog) (2/22/2008), http://presentense.org/node/389.

48
. Interview with the author, 6/19/2007.

49
. Interview with the author, 2/14/2008.

50
. Interview with the author, 1/3/2014.

51
. Daniel Smokler, “Toward a Third Space—New Dimensions of Jewish Education for Emerging Adults,” paper presented at Hillel Conference at NYU (6/2010).

52
. Pew Research, Religion & Public Life Project,
A Portrait of Jewish Americans
(10/1/2013), http://www.pewforum.org/2013/10/01/jewish-american-beliefs-attitudes-culture-survey/.