Pie and Pastry Bible (106 page)

STORE

Room temperature, up to 6 hours; refrigerated, up to 3 days. If it is refrigerated, it is best reheated in a 300°F. oven for 7 to 10 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the center no longer feels cold and the top is crisp.

UNDERSTANDING

The refiner’s syrup prevents crystallization of the rose water syrup, which would interfere with the smooth creamy texture of the dessert.

Leaving a border when spreading the cheese mixture keeps it from browning and drying at the edges.

Either the konafa must be hot and the syrup cool or the konafa cool and the syrup hot for it to absorb evenly.

PANNA COTTA FILLO FLOWERS

W
ith this recipe, I have arranged a marriage between an Italian and a Middle Eastern dessert. Panna cotta, similar to the custard cræme caramel, translates from the Italian as “cooked cream.” It replaces the usual eggs contained in a custard with gelatin, which results in a lighter, cleaner taste and intriguingly resilient texture. It is a dessert of such astonishing purity and simplicity I was inspired to use delicate, crisp fillo dough as an enchanting container for it. Strips of fillo are molded in custard cups, so, when baked, they resemble flowers.

Both the fillo shells and the filling have to be made ahead, but for maximum crispness of the shells, the flowers should be assembled shortly before serving. As this takes only moments, it does not present a problem. If desired, the panna cotta can be served without the pastry, simply by unmolding it onto the plates. A four-inch scalloped tart mold, which holds one-third cup of filling, works nicely and the scalloped edges of the unmolded cream and the tiny grains of vanilla that sink to the bottom make for a charming presentation. The panna cotta is also very attractive unmolded into the fillo cups, but it is somewhat free-form, as the custard is larger than the cup and will fold and curve.

Drizzled with Clear Caramel or topped with fresh seasonal berries, this dessert makes a spectacular presentation. I am also offering a savory version, using Brie cheese, that makes an excellent first course for a dinner party.

EQUIPMENT

Six 6-ounce custard cups (3½ inches by 2 inches) and six 10-ounce custard cups or ramekins (4½ inches by 2 inches), buttered

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 325°F. • BAKING TIME: 8 TO 10 MINUTES SERVES: 6
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*If using a Tahitian vanilla bean, use 1½ inches.
fillo, preferably fresh (see page 365)	5 sheets	3.3 ounces	94 grams
melted butter, preferably clarified (see page 629)	4 tablespoons	2 ounces	28 grams
sugar	approx. 1 teaspoon	•	•
Panna Cotta Filling	(2 cups)
heavy cream, preferably not ultrapasteurized	2 liquid cups	16.25 ounces	464 grams
sweetened condensed milk	¼ liquid cup	2.75 ounces	78 grams
vanilla bean, split lengthwise	3-inch piece*	•	•
gelatin	2 teaspoons	0.25 ounce	7 grams
optional: Clear Caramel Sauce (page 599) or fresh berries, lightly sugared	•	•	•

Advance preparation:
At least 3 hours.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. at least 15 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the middle level before preheating.

MAKE THE FILLO SHELLS

Lay the stack of fillo sheets on the counter and cut it into quarters, to make 6-inch squares. (If the fillo is under 12 inches wide, the squares will be slightly under 6 inches.) There will be 20 squares; only 18 are needed. Keep the fillo well covered with plastic wrap and a damp towel to prevent drying.

Remove 1 square of fillo and brush it lightly with the butter, using about ½ teaspoon, starting around the edges where it will dry out the most quickly and then dappling it lightly all over. Sprinkle it lightly with a pinch of sugar. Place a second square of fillo over the first and repeat the butter and sugar. Place a third square on top, placing it so that the corners do not line up evenly and 8 points or corners are visible, and butter and sugar it. ( Figure 1) Press the fillo into a buttered 10-ounce custard cup so that it forms a cup. (Figure 2) Repeat to make a total of 6 fillo shells. Place a 6-ounce custard cup inside each one to maintain the shape during baking.

Bake the shells for 6 minutes. With tongs, carefully remove the 6-ounce custard cups and with a skewer, pierce the bottom of each cup. Continue baking for 2 to 4 minutes or until golden brown. Allow the shells to cool for at least 5 minutes before unmolding them onto racks to cool completely

MAKE THE FILLING

Lightly spray the 6-ounce custard cups with vegetable oil spray or grease them. In a 2-cup heatproof measure, if using the microwave, or a saucepan, stir together the cream and condensed milk. Scrape the vanilla bean seeds into the cream and add the pod. Sprinkle the gelatin on top and stir it in. Allow to sit for at least 5 minutes to soften the gelatin.

Scald
^*
the cream mixture, stirring often. Strain it into a 2-cup measure. Pour the mixture into the custard cups, using 6 tablespoons (3 fluid ounces) for each. Cover them tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate them for at least 3 hours and up to 3 days.

ASSEMBLE THE PANNA COTTA FLOWERS

The panna cotta must be unmolded onto a greased nonstick surface, such as the bottom of a two-piece tart pan or a flat plate covered with greased plastic wrap, and then reinverted onto a similar surface. Unmold each custard by running a small metal spatula around the edges, then holding it upside down over the nonstick surface and inserting the metal spatula into the side between the panna cotta and the ramekin to create an air pocket. Reinvert it onto the second nonstick surface and slide it into a fillo shell. Refrigerate for up to 6 hours.

Allow the panna cotta to sit for 30 minutes at room temperature before serving to soften slightly. If desired, drizzle the top lightly with caramel or spoon lightly sugared berries on top.

VARIATION

SAVORY BRIE FILLO FLOWERS
Cut the fillo to the same size but shape it into 6-ounce custard cups. Replace the sugar with an equal volume of ground almonds; replace the panna cotta with 2 cups of room-temperature Brie with the rind removed. (Purchase at least 1¼ pounds/567 grams.) Shape the Brie into
-cup balls. Place 2 squares of fillo in each cup, brushing them with butter and sprinkling lightly with ground almonds, and angling the second squares as above. Wrap each Brie ball in a third layer of fillo, bunching it together like a pouch, and press each wrapped ball, bunched side down, into the center of an unbaked fillo flower. Brush the tops with melted butter and bake as above until the shells are golden brown. Serve warm.

Camembert or soft goat cheese also makes delicious fillings.

SPANAKOPITA TRIANGLES (OR PIE)

T
his Greek specialty of spinach and cheese filling in little triangles of crisp fillo has long served as a favorite appetizer. I also like it as an accompaniment to lamb chops or leg of lamb. If you would prefer to make it as a pie, follow the directions for the Gascon Apple Pie (page 370), substituting the spinach filling for the apple filling.

If desired, to keep the fillo lighter, the butter can be replaced by olive oil spray, but butter is best for brushing the top layer, as it gives it the most golden brown color.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 375°F. • BAKING TIME: 15 TO 20 MINUTES MAKES: ABOUT 28 TRIANGLES (OR ONE 10-INCH PIE)
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*Most containers are only 15 ounces, rather than 16, but 1 ounce more or less will make no perceptible difference.
†Place the cooked spinach in a strainer and press and squeeze it well to get rid of as much liquid as possible.
2 large eggs, beaten	3 fluid ounces	3.5 ounces 100 grams (weighed with the shells)
whole milk ricotta cheese	1 container*	approx. 1 pound	454 grams
olive oil	1½ teaspoons	•	•
minced scallions (including 3 inches of green)	cup	1 ounce	31 grams
frozen chopped spinach, cooked and drained well†	1 package	10 ounces	284 grams
crumbled feta cheese	cup	2.6 ounces	74 grams
shredded mozzarella cheese	½ cup	1.5 ounces	43 grams
minced fresh dill	3 tablespoons	approx 0.5 ounce	12 grams
salt	½ teaspoon	•	•
freshly ground black pepper	a few grindings	•	•
fillo, preferably fresh (see page 365)	14 to 16 sheets	approx. 12 ounces	approx. 340 grams
melted butter, preferably clarified (see page 629), or olive oil spray	7 tablespoons	3.5 ounces	100 grams