Pie and Pastry Bible (128 page)

Preheat the oven to 425°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the middle level before pre-heating.

Place the cheese straws in the oven, lower the heat to 400°F., and bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until brown and crisp. Trim off the ends and cut the cheese straws into 4-inch lengths while still warm.

STORE

Room temperature, airtight, up to 5 days.

UNDERSTANDING

The cheese straws are rolled thin so that they bake extra crisp without burning the temperature-sensitive cheese and paprika.

COULIBIAC

T
he traditional version of this dish, of Russian origin, ranks as one of the world’s top pastries. I have adapted it to suit modern tastes. The salmon is poached lightly in broth so that it remains succulent, then is spread with a mushroom velouté sauce and layered with couscous (I find the lightness of texture and sweet nuttiness preferable to the traditional rice). This is first encased in dill crêpes and then in puff pastry. The crêpes keep the pastry from becoming soggy and add a delicate texture and flavor.

The entire dish can be made as far as three weeks ahead since the coulibiac benefits from being cooked frozen.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 425°F., THEN 400°F., THEN 375°F. • BAKING TIME: 60 TO 7O MINUTES (PLUS 30 TO 60 MINUTES STANDING TIME) SERVES: 10; FINISHED SIZE IS 11 INCHES BY 8 INCHES
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
* Or use cup vermouth and increase the broth to 1 cup.
puff pastry (page 417 or 420) or 2 sheets (about 11 inches by 14 inches) frozen puff pastry, defrosted (see page 414)	•	2½ pounds	1 kg 134 grams
Salmon and Mushrooms 2 salmon fillets (preferably center-cut), skinned and any bones removed	•	2 pounds	907 grams
unsalted butter, softened	1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon, divided	0.6 ounce	19 grams
finely chopped onion	2 tablespoons	0.5 ounce	16 grams
finely chopped shallots	1 tablespoon	0.33 ounce	9 grams
salt	¾ teaspoon	•	5 grams
freshly ground black pepper	¼ teaspoon	•	•
thinly sliced fresh mushrooms	2½ cups	8 ounces	227 grams
chopped fresh dill	2½ tablespoons, packed	0.33 ounce	9 grams
dry white wine*	liquid cup	•	•
chicken broth	liquid cup	•	•

EQUIPMENT

A baking dish or roasting pan about 14- by 9- by 2 inches; a baking sheet with very low or no sides; a dark steel baking sheet or baking stone; a 6-inch crêpe pan

Make the dough (page 417 or 420), or defrost according to package directions. Divide it into 2 pieces, about 14 ounces (one third) and 26 ounces (two thirds).

Advance preparation:
The salmon and mushrooms can be prepared a day ahead of final assembly; the crêpes can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for up to 3 months; the filling can be prepared up to 2 days ahead.

PREPARE THE SALMON AND MUSHROOMS

Preheat the oven to 400°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the lowest level before preheating.

Butter the baking dish with the 1 tablespoon of butter. Cut each salmon fillet on the bias into slices about ½ inch thick. (Hold the knife at a slight angle and slice across the fish.)

In a small sauté pan, over medium-low heat, melt the remaining 1 teaspoon of butter and sauté the onion and shallots until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Spoon the onion and shallots into the baking dish, staying within a 9-inch square in the center, and sprinkle with half the salt and pepper. Arrange two parallel, slightly overlapping rows of the salmon slices on top. Sprinkle with the remaining salt and pepper. Scatter the mushrooms over the salmon and sprinkle with the dill.

Heat the wine and chicken broth until hot and pour it over the salmon. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 15 minutes. The salmon should be barely opaque around the edges and still quite rare in the center. (It will continue cooking when baked in the pastry.)

Pour the accumulated liquid around the salmon into a medium saucepan (or a 2-cup heatproof glass measure). Remove the mushrooms to a small bowl and set them aside. Allow the salmon to cool, draining the liquid that accumulates into the saucepan or glass measure. (There will be about 1 cup.)

MAKE THE VELOUTÉ

INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*Or use cup vermouth and increase the broth to 1 cup.
Velouté unsalted butter	4 teaspoons	0.6 ounce	19 grams
all-purpose flour	2 tablespoons	0.6 ounce	18 grams
cayenne pepper	scant teaspoon	•	•
freshly squeezed lemon juice	2 tablespoons	approx. 1 ounce	32 grams
3 large egg yolks, lightly beaten	3 tablespoons + 1½ teaspoons	2 ounces	56 grams
freshly ground white pepper	a few grindings	•	•