Pie and Pastry Bible (153 page)

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

To prevent crystallization, do not allow any sugar crystals to get on the sides of the pan and be sure to moisten all the sugar with the water. Stop stirring entirely as soon as the mixture comes to a boil. If using a thermometer, be sure to rinse it and dry it if you remove it and then reinsert it in the syrup. If any sugar remains on the thermometer, it will cause crystallization.

One quarter of the caramel powder is added shortly before serving to maintain the crunch. If you prefer a totally smooth cream, you can add all the caramel in the beginning.

UNDERSTANDING

I adore the flavor of caramel, so I like to have as much depth of flavor as possible without any burnt flavor. I bring it up to 380°F. for maximum flavor. The darker you make the caramel, the less sweet it will seem, but you risk burning it if you don’t have an absolutely accurate thermometer (see page 673).

WHIPPED CREAM FOR PIPING

U
sing a food processor to “whip” the cream means that it will not be as light and airy as beaten whipped cream because it does not increase in volume. The added density makes this velvety whipped cream pipe like a dream.

Place all the ingredients in the bowl of food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process, checking every few seconds by lifting a small amount of cream
with a small metal spatula or spoon, until the mixture looks thick and creamy and forms a slight peak when lifted. It will not be fluffy. Use it at once.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 24 hours once piped onto the pastry (the cream will not water out).

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Do not overprocess. Even a few seconds past the peaking stage and the consistency will no longer be smooth.

For stability at prolonged room temperature, use the Cobasan (see page 644).

SUPERSTABILIZED WHIPPED CREAM

T
his whipped cream has the most firm texture, making it ideal for adding to pastry creams. If heavy fruit, such as slices of mango, papaya, or large strawberries, is used for the topping, use the larger amount of gelatin. For smaller fruit, such as blackberries or raspberries, use the smaller amount.

Refrigerate the mixing bowl and beater for at least 15 minutes.

In a small heatproof measuring cup, place the gelatin and water and allow it to sit for 5 minutes. Set the cup in a pan of simmering water for a few minutes, stirring occasionally until the gelatin is dissolved (or microwave on high power for a few seconds, stirring once or twice). Set it aside briefly. (The mixture must still be warm, or it will lump when added to the cold cream.)

In the chilled mixing bowl, beat the cream and sugar until the cream begins to thicken. Gradually beat in the warm gelatin mixture and beat just until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 days.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Do not overheat. Even a few seconds past stiff peaks, and the consistency will no longer be velvety smooth.

UNDERSTANDING

The gelatin makes the texture seem fuller and slightly spongy.

CRÈME FRAÎCHE

(krem fresh)

T
his recipe produces a cræme fraîche reminiscent of the enchanting varieties found in France. Cræme fraîche is wonderful just as it is to adorn a pie or pastry, but it can also be lightly sweetened and whipped while still maintaining its mild tang. Any left over is great for finishing savory sauces because, unlike sour cream, it does not curdle with heat.

MAKES: ABOUT 2 CUPS (ABOUT 3 CUPS WHIPPED)
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*Ultrapasteurized cream may take as long as 36 hours to thicken and will not have as full a flavor.
†Or use 2 regular (Madagascar) vanilla beans.
heavy cream, preferably not ultrapasteurized*	2 liquid cups	16 ounces	464 grams
buttermilk	2 tablespoons	approx. 1 ounce	30 grams
optional: 1 Tahitian vanilla bean,† split lengthwise	•	•	•

Combine the ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and place it in a warm spot, such as the top of the refrigerator or near the stove. Allow it to sit undisturbed for at least 12 hours or until thickened but still pourable.

Refrigerate. Cræme fraîche will continue to thicken on chilling.

If using the vanilla bean, remove it just before using the cræme fraîche and scrape the seeds from the bean into the cream.

TO MAKE LIGHTLY SWEETENED WHIPPED CRÈME FRAÎCHE
Add 1 tablespoon of sugar and whisk the cream lightly until soft peaks form when the whisk is raised.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 weeks.

LIGHT WHIPPED GANACHE

T
his chocolate whipped cream is denser and more chocolaty than the chocolate chip whipped cream because it has a little more than three times the chocolate, yet it is so light and airy it seems to disappear in the mouth. It makes a dreamy filling and can be used in the same way as the chocolate chip version. It also pipes beautifully at room temperature.

Break the chocolate into pieces and process it in a food processor with the metal blade until very fine.

Heat the cream to the boiling point and, with the motor running, pour it through the feed tube in a steady stream. Process for a few seconds or until smooth. Pour the mixture into the large bowl of an electric mixer and refrigerate until cold, stirring once or twice, about 2 hours. You can speed chilling by setting the bowl in an ice water bath and stirring frequently. Do not allow the mixture to get too cold, or it will be too stiff to incorporate air.