Pie and Pastry Bible (82 page)

Make the dough (page 56).

MAKE THE CARAMEL WALNUT FILLING

In a medium saucepan, preferably with a nonstick finish, stir together the sugar, corn syrup, and water until all of the sugar is moistened and then bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. Stop stirring and continue boiling until the syrup is a deep amber (360°F.). If not using a thermometer, a porcelain spoon or high-temperature heat-resistant spatula makes it easier to see the color. Alternatively, you can use a spoon to dribble a tiny bit onto a white plate. Remove it at once from the heat, preferably to the sink, and, using a long ladle held at arm’s length, carefully and slowly pour in the cream. (If the cream is cold, unless it is added slowly, it will harden the caramel and take longer to dissolve.)

When the liquid stops fizzling, return it to the range and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes over low heat, stirring constantly to dissolve any hardened pieces. Gently stir in the walnuts and simmer without stirring for 1 minute, swirling the pan occasionally. Pour the mixture into a lightly greased bowl to stop the cooking and gently stir in the honey.

Allow the bowl of filling to sit on a rack for at least 1½ hours or until completely cool. Avoid stirring to prevent graininess. To speed cooling, you can refrigerate the caramelized nut mixture, but you’ll need to keep a close watch on it. Remove it as soon as it has cooled, or it will become too sticky to spread evenly.

Divide the dough in a ratio of two thirds : one third. If it has been refrigerated for several hours or more, it will need to sit for at least 40 minutes or until malleable.

If using the 8-inch cake pan (see illustration) as a mold, roll the larger piece of dough between two sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap to ¼ inch thick and just large enough to cut an 11-inch circle. Remove the upper piece of plastic wrap and set aside. Use an expandable flan ring or a cardboard template and a sharp knife to cut the 11-inch circle. Add the scraps to the remaining piece of dough. Return the plastic wrap to the rolled dough and invert it over the back of the 8-inch cake pan, centering it evenly. If any cracks develop, smooth them together (or wait until transferring the dough to the pan). If the dough softens and gets sticky, refrigerate or freeze it just until it is firm. Peel off the top sheet of plastic wrap and invert the loose-bottom or springform pan over the dough. Then simply invert both pans so that the larger pan is on the bottom and the dough is in it. Remove the cake pan and gently press the dough against the sides of the pan. If necessary, allow the
dough to soften at room temperature for a few minutes so that it drapes into the pan. Press it against the sides and push it down so that it comes no higher than 1 inch up the sides. Leave the plastic wrap in place and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.

If not using the 8-inch cake pan, use your fingers to press the dough into the pan instead of rolling it.

Roll the remaining dough between sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap to a little larger than 9 inches in diameter and about ¼ inch thick. Trim it to a circle just a hair under 9 inches across (measure the exact inner diameter of the pan). Chill it for at least 30 minutes, or freeze it for 20 minutes, so that it is firm.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the lowest level before preheating.

Remove the plastic wrap from the pastry-lined pan. Scrape the filling into it and smooth it with a spatula to make it even. If the bottom pastry is very cold, lightly brush the edge of it with water.

Remove the top sheet of the plastic wrap from the pastry circle and use the remaining piece to invert it onto the filling. Remove the plastic. (If the dough is very firm, you can remove both pieces of plastic wrap and use your hands to lift and place it.) Use a fork, preferably a three-tined one, to press the edges together, making a design in the pastry that looks like the rays of the sun. Then prick the top all over, making a design of little holes.

Bake for 35 to 45 minutes or until the pastry is golden. Place the tart on a rack and allow it to cool for at least 30 minutes before unmolding. (After 2 hours, it will still be slightly warm.)

To unmold, if using a loose-bottom pan, see page 251. Or remove the sides of the springform pan. Serve the tart warm or at room temperature. Use a serrated knife to cut it into wedges.

STORE

Room temperature, airtight, up to 1 week.

UNDERSTANDING

Toasting the walnuts helps to remove the bitter skins, making the filling purer and the nuts extra crunchy.

A touch of corn syrup keeps the filling soft and slightly fluid, preventing it from becoming crystallized. Corn syrup lowers the caramelization point of the syrup slightly so that at 360°F. it is similar in color to a sugar syrup made without corn syrup that is cooked to 380°E If the honey were added at the beginning, it would drop the caramelization still further, to 320°F. A dark caramel is more flavorful up to a point. If it is too dark, it will taste bitter.

Refined sugar rather than unrefined or raw sugar (see page 647) helps to prevent crystallization of the caramel from impurities.

The filling must be chilled so that the butter in the dough does not start to melt until it is baked. This ensures the crispest and finest texture of the pastry.

GÂTEAU BASQUE

W
hen my friend Jim Poris of
Food Arts
begged me to include this recipe, I was confused, because
gâteau
in French means cake. But this is actually two layers of cookie crust with a rum pastry cream in between, and baked in the shape of a cake. Though the pastry cream bakes inside the dough, it stays creamy after baking and the pastry remains crisp. This recipe is from Fifi Arrambide, of the restaurant Les Pyrénées in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the French Basque country.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 350°F. • BAKING TIME: 50 TO 60 MINUTES	SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
	VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
Extra-Sweet Cookie Tart Crust blanched sliced almonds	½ cup	(16.7 to 18 ounces) 1.5 ounces	(477 to 515 grams) 42 grams
sugar, preferably unrefined (see pages 645-646)	½ cup	3.5 ounces	100 grams
unsalted butter, cut into cubes and chilled	7 tablespoons	3.5 ounces	100 grams
bleached all-purpose flour	1 cups + 1 tablespoon (dip and sweep method)	7 ounces	200 grams
baking powder	1 teaspoon	•	5 grams
salt	teaspoon	•	•
2 large egg yolks	2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon	1.3 ounces	37 grams
pure vanilla extract	½ teaspoon	•	•
dark rum	1 tablespoon	0.5 ounce	14 grams
½ recipe Pastry Cream (page 560)	1¼ cups	13.25 ounces	375 grams
optional glaze: ½ large egg, lightly beaten	1½ tablespoons	0.75 ounce	25 grams
optional garnish: bing cherry preserves	about ½ cup	•	•

EQUIPMENT

An 8- by 2-inch cake pan (optional) and a 9- by 2-inch loose-bottom cake pan or springform pan (the sides can be higher but lower sides are easier for placing the pastry), sprayed with Baker’s Joy or greased and floured

FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD

In a food processor with the metal blade, pulse the nuts and sugar until the nuts are ground fine. Pulse in the butter until no loose particles of nut/sugar mixture remain. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt and add it to the butter mixture. Pulse about 15 times or until the butter is no larger than small peas.

In a small bowl, lightly beat the yolks and vanilla. Add them to the mixture and pulse just until incorporated, 8 to 10 times.

Dump the mixture into a plastic bag and press it together. Knead it lightly in the bag until it holds together. Divide the dough in a ratio of two thirds : one third and flatten each piece into a disc.

HAND METHOD

Finely grate the nuts. In a medium bowl, stir together the nuts, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. With a pastry cutter or two knives, cut in the cold butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

In a small bowl, lightly beat the yolks and vanilla. Mix them into the flour mixture until the dough comes together and can be formed into a large ball. Divide the dough in a ratio of two thirds : one third and flatten each piece into a disc.

FOR BOTH METHODS

Wrap each dough disc tightly and chill for at least 30 minutes.

If the dough has been refrigerated for several hours or more, it will need to sit for at least 40 minutes or until it is malleable before rolling.

If using the 8-inch cake pan (see illustration) as a mold, roll the larger piece between two sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap to
inch thick and just large enough to cut an 11-inch circle. Remove the upper piece of plastic wrap and set aside. Use an expandable flan ring or a cardboard template and a sharp knife to cut the 11-inch circle. Add the scraps to the remaining piece of dough. Return the plastic wrap to the dough and invert it over the back of the 8-inch cake pan, centering it evenly. If any cracks develop, smooth them together (or wait until transferring the dough to the pan). If the dough softens and gets sticky, refrigerate or freeze it just until it is firm. Peel off the top sheet of plastic wrap and invert the loose-bottom or springform pan over it. Then simply invert both pans so that the larger pan is on the bottom and the dough is in it. Remove the cake pan and gently press the dough
against the sides of the pan. If necessary, allow the dough to soften at room temperature for a few minutes so that it drapes into the pan. Press it against the sides and push it down so that it comes no higher than 1 inch up the sides. Leave the plastic wrap in place and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.