Romancing the Roads (7 page)

South Dakota

This
beautiful state should be investigated and enjoyed. I-90 across South Dakota is a great road with some extraordinary sights that are natural wonders. At the welcome centers, be sure to pick up brochures on various South Dakota places. I found several excellent ones, especially the “Guide to Antique Shops in South Dakota.”

Mitchell

About a
quarter of the way (heading west) into the state, Mitchell is definitely a good place to stop. For one thing, the mayor was a woman when I was there. How wise to have a woman at the helm. While Mitchell has the usual mix of stores, gas stations, and motels, it also features a variety of unusual museums, including the following, among others:

Enchanted World Doll Museum

615 N. Main St.

605-996-9896

Middle Border Museum of American Indian and Pioneer Life

1331 S. Duff St.

605996-2122

Soukup & Thomas International Balloon & Airship Museum

700 Main St.

605-996-5533

Corn Palace

604 N. Main St.

605-995-8427

www.cornpalace.com

This is a one and only. To say it is unique would be an understatement. The original Corn Palace, a huge mosque-like building, was built in 1892, but the establishment moved two blocks away in 1914. It moved again in 1921 to its present site. It was originally built to show and emphasize the early settlers’ harvest. The siding of the building is real corn sawed lengthwise and applied to the sides. It is definitely uniquely artistic. Each year the corn is stripped off and a new scene is “painted.” The murals on the walls depict South Dakota lifestyles. The palace is used for many different events. You can purchase all kinds, and I do mean all kinds, of corn products. What a good opportunity to pick up that unusual gift. This building has another name: World’s Largest Bird Feeder. Everyone must try to visit the Corn Palace at least once. You will not be alone as there are about five hundred thousand visitors a year. Admission is free.

Outside the Corn Palace there are antique shops, as well, of course, as various tourist traps. Mitchell has a special, albeit a bit touristy, feel, but I recommend a visit. Just don’t forget the winter weather. Leaving Mitchell, the drive along I-90 is a delight. The sights are beautiful, and the places to stop are many.

Badlands National Park

I-90, Exit 131 for those travelling west, Exit 110 at Wall for those traveling east

605-433-5361

www.nps.gov/badl

It has taken 30 million years to produce the Badlands with its multicolored buttes and rough stone spires. All 240,000 acres are impressive.

There are three main units in the Badlands. I drove the
North Unit
, which is a loop road with many scenic overlooks. The interpretive signs at the pull-outs are excellent and informative. I could easily ramble on about the Badlands, with their red and brown hues, massive formations, and winds, but it is all in the eyes of the beholder. Don’t miss seeing this American wonder. It is another magnificent treasure. Stop at the
Ben Reifel Visitors Center
(605-433-5361) five miles into the park. You have time to plan your visit; geologists state that with the two-inch-per-year erosion rate, it will take five hundred thousand years for the Badlands to disappear.

Wall

Wall Drug

510 Main St.

605-279-2175

www.walldrug.com

Wall Drug is located at the junction of I-90 and Route 240. Don’t worry, you won’t miss it as many billboards will remind you of this gathering spot. Originally just a small town in South Dakota with a drug store, a Catholic church, and fewer than five hundred very poor residents, Wall was transformed in or around 1931 when Dorothy and Ted Hustead bought the drug store. I think it was Dorothy who, after a rough start, came up with the idea of offering free ice water to travelers crossing the hot prairie. A burgeoning business was born. Now there are long blocks of tourist temptations in the numerous old-fashioned stores. Many consider Wall Drug a national institution, and it still offers free water. More than twenty thousand tourists stop at Wall on a typical summer day! Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., seven days a week, year-round, except New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. I have learned that since I was at Wall, so much has been done: the mining and panning display has been enlarged, the shooting gallery has been doubled, there are two singing raccoons, the original pharmacy has been moved and enlarged, and the art collection is most impressive.

Driving Diva Observation:
See what happens when you have a
p
roduct that is in demand, the price is right (ice was free in Wall), the promotion is sensible, and the
place is convenient.

A stone’s throw from Wall Drug is the
Buffalo Gap National Grassland Visitors Center
. Its slogan is “Anyone can love the mountains, but it takes soul to love the prairie.”

Deadwood (Population Less Than 2,000)

Readily accessible
from I-90, Deadwood is a real cowboy, stagecoach, and gambling town, albeit with modern facilities, set in the
Black Hills
(actually they’re dark green). The entire city of Deadwood was named a National Historic Landmark; therefore, its original character and flavors have been maintained. I think you will find it hard not to like Deadwood. Do not think the town is without modern amenities. It has all the necessities, but the old-timey aspects add to its wonderful aura.

History:
In 1875 John B. Pearson found gold in a narrow canyon in the Black Hills, where, without question, the gold rush was on. Thousands of greedy and hopeful prospectors filled the area with competitive, rowdy tempers frequently flaring up. Deadwood proper was established in 1876. By 1877, the wild community was becoming more orderly and organized.

In 1891, thanks to the railroad, Deadwood started to prosper, but wild shoot-’em-ups were still happening. Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane were often in town. It was in Deadwood that Wild Bill, while playing poker, was shot in the back of the head by Jack McCall. Wild Bill was holding a hand of aces and eights, now known as the “dead man’s hand.” And then there was the mysterious murder on a Sunday in 1876 of the Rev. Henry W. Smith (the first Methodist minister to come to the Black Hills). Needless to say, many of this ilk are buried in the
Mount Moriah Cemetery
on the fringe of the city, including Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane.

Gambling and prostitution were common in this South Dakota town. Even during Prohibition a lot of these activities went on behind closed doors. Prostitution remained a business until 1950, when the state shut down many of the brothels. It wasn’t until 1980 that the last brothel, Pam’s Purple Door, was closed.

In the 1980s local businessmen lobbied to legalize gambling to help increase tourism and preserve the historic buildings of Deadwood, many of which are Victorian in style.

Each evening (except Sunday), there is a reenactment of the capture of Jack McCall on historic
Main Street
. All the spectators follow the actors to
Old Town Hall
for McCall’s trial. This is a must-do! A visit to this historic landmark city is indeed unique and an experience to be savored.

Note:
During the first two weeks of August, this area is visited by about five hundred thousand “hog riders”—motorcyclists attending the
Sturgis Rally
(www.sturgis.com). It is quite an event at which everything is going on and then some.

Silverado Franklin (formerly the Franklin Hotel)

709 Main St.

605-578-3670

www.silveradofranklin.com

This hotel creaks with history. From the minute I ascended the front steps and walked across the front porch, I was delighted to be on the property, although I wish I had dressed for the scene. When I was there, its big porch with rocking chairs was inviting. They are now gone. The original, meticulously laid tile floor in the main lobby was covered with slot machines the last time I was there. Now I learn the machines are all across the street, and the tile floor is covered with a rug. Since my visit, the Silverado has purchased the property, the gambling has become more prominent, and although there are still shades of “back when,” new formats are definitely evident. One of the hotel’s motto is “Stay and Play.” Good luck.

The wide, prominent staircase in the lobby leads to the
Emerald Room
on the second floor, where, back when, the ladies would meet. Remember that separate rooms for ladies and gentlemen were the norm. There is the famous fainting couch in case a lady felt a “spell” coming on. Do try it, but don’t faint.

The Franklin is now under the ownership of Silverado Gaming. One cannot talk about this hotel without mentioning Mr. Bill Walsh, the man who kept this historic gem going for so many years before the ownership changed.

The rooms at the Franklin were named after stars who had stayed there. I had plastic flowers in my suite, as well as a sink in the living room, leading me to surmise that these accommodations had obviously at one time been an apartment. I felt secure there, and everything was clean and comfortable. I did enjoy the real western style. The upgrades are ongoing, and a spa has gone in where the florist and barber shop used to be.

Although the hotel dining room has closed, it claims to be the oldest dining room in South Dakota. I found everyone very friendly. Many famous people have stayed at this special hotel. Don’t hesitate to add your name to the roster.

Midnight Star

677 Main St.

800-999-6482

www.themidnightstar.com

On historic Main Street is a building called the Midnight Star. Here you will find the award-winning
Jakes
(605-578-3656) restaurant, where dining is a fabulous experience. Of course, you will also find the gambling and imbibing at
Diamond Lil’s
(605-578-3550). All this is owned by South Dakota native Kevin Costner. The decorations and displayed memorabilia are items from his celebrated career. This is a fabulous restaurant, and reservations are a must.

Driving Diva’s Favorite Deadwood Signs:

No Dancing on the Table with Spurs On

No Sniveling

Don’t Worry, You’ll Never Get Out of This World Alive

Driving Diva Discovery:
Heading from Deadwood to
Rapid City
(population approximately 60,000), I discovered a
Maurice’s
(www.maurices.com). This savvy store has very savvy clothes for the savvy female. Sensibly priced, Maurice’s now has more than seven hundred stores in forty-four states. I so enjoy finding a Maurice’s as I travel.

Mount Rushmore

An hour
or so outside Deadwood is Rapid City. About twenty miles farther along, you will find Mount Rushmore.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial

13000 Hwy. 244, Bldg. 81, Keystone

605-574-2515

www.mtrushmorenationalmemorial.com

This carved-granite tribute to Presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt, created by Lincoln Borglum, is definitely something to see and admire. Be sure to visit the
Lincoln Borglum Museum
. In the exhibition area, learn just how massive this rock carving is and how it was made without sophisticated tools. It is so huge that a man can stand inside Lincoln’s ear. Be prepared for a lot of walking that is not on flat ground.

South Dakota may not be on the top of the commercial vacation planner’s roster, but put it on yours. I look forward to returning.

Nebraska

Omaha

I-80
takes you across Nebraska, and Omaha is the first major Nebraska city heading west.

A delightful surprise, Omaha is a pocketful of treasures. Each time I have only visited for a night or two, but I have driven around the city and found everything rather impressive. The streets are clean, the areas well marked, and the people most friendly. There is a lot to discover in Omaha. It seems that the town fathers consider carefully how to add to the city. Glitz is not obvious—thank goodness!

Magnolia Omaha Hotel

1615 Howard St.

402-342-2222

www.magnoliahotelomaha.com

This attractive hotel in the historic downtown area is easy to find with directions. It is a place where women can feel secure and all guests can feel welcomed. The self-parking, a stone’s throw from the hotel, is convenient and safe. The property’s 146 well-designed guest rooms are a very comfortable size and have all the necessary amenities. The furnishings in the public areas, as well as in the rooms, are attractive, with emphasis on mahogany furniture, oriental rugs, and sparkling crystal chandeliers. The small, separate areas in the main areas are pleasant and inviting. The hotel is well run. Several upgrades have taken place
since my visit. Everything is well placed, and the dining room is now named
Hitz on Howard
(402-231-6091). Remember this property if you are going to Omaha.
Forbes
named Omaha “The Best Bang for the Buck City.”

The Magnolia Omaha is within walking distance of the
Old Market District
(www.oldmarket.com), a wonderful twelve-square-block area that I highly recommend. Cobblestone streets and nineteenth-century buildings are now filled with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, and whatever is trendy. Allow lots of time, and be sure to enjoy one of the restaurants. Also near the hotel is the
Orpheum Theater
(www.omahaperformingarts.org/orpheum). Perhaps you’ll catch a Broadway show, an opera, or symphony during your visit. There is a lot going on in Omaha and near this hotel. Be sure to check for places and events.

Interesting:
There must be something in the Nebraska water or air as a lot of very well-known people are from this state: Marlon Brando, Fred Astaire, Warren Buffett, Johnny Carson, Dick Cavett, Dorothy McGuire, Darryl F. Zanuck, and the list goes on.