Simply Organic (23 page)

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Authors: Jesse Ziff Coole

BOOK: Simply Organic
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SHORT RIBS
WITH
BABY TURNIPS

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

Organic and grass-fed beef are finally more widely available. Short ribs are much sought after these days, but this recipe also works well with chuck or any pot roast. Once you begin cooking with meats that are not treated with artificial hormones or antibiotics, you will notice a difference in the depth of taste and texture. I find that organic meats have much more flavor than conventional ones.

3 pounds beef short ribs

2 tablespoons garam masala

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 garlic cloves, chopped

8 shallots

2 carrots, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

1 cup hearty red wine, such as Zinfandel

3 to 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth

1 can (14½ ounces) diced tomatoes with their juice

4 sprigs fresh thyme

4 sprigs fresh Italian parsley

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cloves

2 bunches baby turnips (about 24 turnips)

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Season the ribs with the garam masala and a pinch of salt and pepper. Place in a large roasting pan and roast for 45 minutes, or until the meat is browned, turning it once.

Reduce the heat to 375°F. Add the garlic, shallots, carrots, celery, wine, 3 cups of the broth, tomatoes with juice, thyme, parsley, bay leaves, coriander, cloves, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Roast, uncovered, for 1½ hours, or until the meat is tender but not yet falling off the bone.

Wash the turnips and, if they are larger than about 2 inches in diameter, cut them in half or into wedges. Add to the ribs. Spoon the sauce over the turnips and ribs. Add another 1 cup broth if the sauce is too thick. Roast for 1 hour, or until the turnips and meat are tender.

Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove the ribs and turnips to a serving platter.

Remove and discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs in the sauce. Working in batches if necessary, pour the sauce into a food processor or blender. Purée until smooth.

Pour the sauce over the ribs and turnips and serve.

PORK CHOPS
WITH
DRIED BERRY–PORT SAUCE

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

Reminiscent of the cherry glaze traditionally served with meat, this rich sauce is a delicious complement to flavorful pork chops. For a change of pace, try the sauce over smoked pork chops or even ham steak.

3 whole cloves, or ½ teaspoon ground cloves

3 whole black peppercorns

1 bay leaf

1 cinnamon stick

1½ cups dried berries, such as blackberries, raspberries, or blueberries

1 cup ruby port

3 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 rib pork chops

Combine the cloves, peppercorns, bay leaf, and cinnamon stick in a piece of cheesecloth or a small gauze bag. Tie with kitchen twine to seal. Put in a medium saucepan along with the berries, port, 1 cup water, brown sugar, and mustard. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour, or until the liquid is reduced by half and thickened slightly. Remove and discard the spice bag.

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chops and cook for 8 minutes, turning once, or until a thermometer inserted in the center of a chop registers 160°F and the juices run clear.

Serve the pork chops with the sauce.

AUTUMN VEGETABLE GRATIN

MAKES
8
SERVINGS

The thinner you slice the vegetables, the better. I use a tool called a mandoline, which is a small tabletop slicer. You can find it in most cookware shops or catalogs. Otherwise, use a very sharp knife, take your time, and you will get the same results.

¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

¼ cup brown sugar

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese (about 4 ounces)

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ pounds winter squash, such as butternut, buttercup, Hokkaido, or acorn, peeled and thinly sliced

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 golden flesh potatoes, such as Yukon gold, peeled and thinly sliced

1 fennel bulb, peeled and thinly sliced

2 to 3 cups milk, as needed

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 2-quart baking dish.

In a small bowl, combine the flour, brown sugar, Cheddar, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

Layer one-third of the squash, onion, potatoes, and fennel in the prepared baking dish. Dust with one-third of the flour mixture. Repeat the layers two more times, finishing with the flour mixture. Pour enough of the milk over all to cover the potatoes and come two-thirds of the way up the sides of the baking dish. Press down slightly to moisten all the ingredients, and sprinkle with the Parmesan.

Bake for 1½ hours, or until the vegetables are very tender and the gratin is golden brown. If the top browns too quickly, cover loosely with foil. Let stand for 15 minutes before serving.

KITCHEN TIP

For a lighter version of this luscious dish, use vegetable or chicken broth instead of milk. I like to make this the day before serving, as the flavors seem to improve.

ROASTED PARSNIPS

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

I often roast root vegetables, and next to beets and onions, parsnips are my favorite. Their creamy sweetness seems to be enhanced in the oven. I cover my baking sheet with parchment paper because the sugar in the parsnips can make cleaning a chore.

1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 3-inch sticks
1

2 medium leeks, cleaned and sliced into ½-inch rounds

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Put the parsnips and leeks in a large bowl. Sprinkle with the oil, garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper. Toss to coat well. Spread out on the prepared baking sheet.

Roast, turning occasionally, for 30 minutes, or until the parsnips are tender and lightly browned.

BARLEY–SWEET POTATO HASH

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

I make this hash and top it with a couple of fresh eggs, poached or fried over easy. The yolks seep into the hash, and the only thing left to reach for is the bottle of hot sauce.

½ cup pearl barley

2 tablespoons vegetable or light olive oil

1 small onion, coarsely chopped

1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces

2 cups vegetable broth

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Put the barley in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook, shaking the pan often, for 5 minutes, or until toasted. Remove the barley to a bowl.

In the same saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sweet potato and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until lightly browned. Add the barley and broth. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, or until the barley is tender but still firm and the liquid is absorbed. Season generously with salt and pepper.

VARIATIONS

I like to stir ham, smoked tofu, or cooked chicken or shrimp into a bowl of this hash to make a hearty meal.

BITTER GREENS
WITH
DEVILED EGGS

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

Bitter greens piled next to irresistible deviled eggs is an innovative way to combine hard-cooked eggs with a salad.

Vinaigrette

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard, or more to taste

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

½ cup chopped green onions

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Deviled Eggs

7 hard-cooked large eggs

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

3½ tablespoons mayonnaise

1½ tablespoons sweet pickle relish

1 tablespoon finely grated red onion

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 pound bitter greens, such as frisée, radicchio, or escarole

Paprika for garnish

To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, oregano, and green onions. Season generously with salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature.

To make the deviled eggs: Coarsely grate 1 whole egg and put in a medium bowl. Cut the remaining 6 in half evenly and, using a teaspoon, carefully remove the yolks and put in a small bowl. Grate the yolks into the medium bowl with the grated whole egg. Mash with a fork and add the sugar, mustard, mayonnaise, relish, and red onion. Season with salt and pepper. Add a little more mayonnaise if necessary. Using a spoon, mound the yolk filling into the 12 empty egg halves.

In a large bowl, toss the greens with the vinaigrette and a little extra salt and pepper.

Divide the dressed greens among 6 plates.

Place 2 deviled egg halves on the side of each plate, and sprinkle the eggs with a little paprika.

KITCHEN TIP

This vinaigrette is delicious for basting a turkey or chicken, and the drippings make a fabulous gravy.

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER

MAKES
20
SERVINGS

I planted enough cauliflower in my winter garden to feed the neighborhood. By the end of the season, with three or four gigantic heads still staring me in the face, I decided to make these delicious cauliflower pickles.

1 large head cauliflower (about 3 pounds), cut into florets

4 garlic cloves, smashed

1 jalapeño chile pepper, quartered and seeded

6 whole peppercorns

2 bay leaves

5 cups rice vinegar

Pour 1 inch of water into a large saucepan over high heat. Place a steamer basket in the pan and bring to a boil. Put the cauliflower in the basket and steam for 4 minutes, or until tender-crisp. Transfer to a colander and run under cold water. Drain completely.

While the cauliflower cooks, divide the garlic, chile pepper, peppercorns, and bay leaves between two 2-quart jars. Add the cauliflower and completely cover with vinegar. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 days and up to 3 weeks. Remove and discard the bay leaves before serving.

PUMPKIN-RAISIN BREAD PUDDING

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