Southern California Cooking from the Cottage (8 page)

The fact that La Jolla's spectacularly moderate weather offers such abundant opportunity to eat alfresco is John Wolfe's explanation for why breakfast seems a more valued meal in this part of the world. “Back East, people tend to gulp and go,” he says. “It's dark and cold outside. You want to get where you're going and not waste any time. Here we have a different attitude towards life. There aren't as many type-A people. The idea is, ‘relax, take your time, ease on into the day.' I believe that people in La Jolla go out for breakfast as much as they do for lunch and dinner.” To help breakfasters relax, the Cottage always has a rack of newspapers available to peruse at your table, and outdoor heaters make the patio appealing even if there is an early-morning chill in the air.

John had one more good reason breakfast is better in Southern California: “Fresh fruit.” When we asked him to describe how the menu changes according to what's in season, he shrugged and said, “Most things are pretty much in season all the time around here.” While that's not entirely true—fresh tangerine juice isn't always available (but when it is, it's magical!)—customers can count on orange juice that is just-squeezed, plump sweet berries for cereal and pancakes, and full-flavored broccoli, tomatoes, mushrooms, and spinach in the “Eat Your Vegetables” Omelette.

KING KONG MUFFINS

K
ing Kong Muffins are best if your bananas are fully ripened to black before they are mashed. I bake them at home and feel that the millet adds an especially appealing crunch.

3 eggs, slightly beaten

1½ cups mashed bananas

1 cup canola oil

cup honey

cup raisins

1 cup chopped walnuts

½ cup millet

1 cup old-fashioned oats

1¼ cups bran

2 cups whole wheat flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 tablespoon baking powder

Preheat the oven to 350
^o
F. Grease and line 15 muffin cups. In a large bowl mix the eggs, bananas, oil, honey, raisins, walnuts, millet, oats, and bran. In a small bowl combine the flour, salt, baking soda, and baking powder. Add the dry mixture to the banana mixture and stir until blended. The batter will be thick. Fill the muffin cups to the top. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes.

MAKES 15 MUFFINS

RASPBERRY MILLET MUFFINS

T
he texture here is a beguiling mix of soft raspberries and crunchy millet: one of our most popular muffins.

1 stick softened butter or margarine

1¼ cups sugar

3 eggs

1 cup sour cream

3½ cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

2 cups raspberries

2 tablespoons millet

Preheat the oven to 350
^o
F. Grease and line a 12-cup muffin tin or two 6-cup tins. In a large mixing bowl beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the sour cream and blend. In a small bowl combine the flour and baking powder. Stir the dry ingredients into the batter until just blended. Stir in the raspberries and millet. Fill the muffin cups to the top. Bake for 25 minutes.

MAKES 12 MUFFINS

BUTTERMILK COFFEE CAKE

A
great cake to serve in the morning or anytime during the day, Buttermilk Coffee Cake has been a staple at the Cottage since the beginning. We offer bites of it to customers waiting for a table when the place is packed on weekend mornings.

1 cup canola oil

3
cups flour

1 cup granulated sugar

1
cups packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 egg

1¼ cups buttermilk

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup chopped walnuts

Preheat the oven to 325
^o
F. Grease a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. In a large mixing bowl combine the oil, flour, sugars, cinnamon, and ginger. The mixture should be crumbly. Set aside 1
cups of the batter. To the remaining batter add the egg, buttermilk, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix well. Pour the batter into the dish. To the reserved batter add the walnuts and spread the topping evenly over the batter. Bake for 25 minutes or until cake springs back to the touch.

MAKES 12 PIECES COFFEE CAKE

• SOUPS •

Black Bean Soup

Butternut Squash Soup

Cream of Broccoli Soup

Cream of Potato Soup with Bell Peppers

French Onion Soup

Gazpacho

Mexican Chicken & Rice Soup

Mushroom Soup

Red Lentil Soup

Teo's Cream of Tomato Soup

New England Clam Chowder

Southwestern Corn Chowder

Cottage Chili

BLACK BEAN SOUP

T
he key here is chipotle peppers, which add a kick and smoky flavor. Black bean soup is especially welcome on cool days.

4 slices bacon

2 cups finely chopped celery

2 cups finely chopped carrots

1 cup finely chopped onion

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon cumin

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 bay leaf

½ teaspoon white pepper

3 (15-ounce) cans black beans, undrained

5 cups water

2 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, canned

1 teaspoon chicken base

In a large soup pot cook the bacon over medium heat. Remove the bacon and add the celery, carrots, onion, garlic, cumin, oregano, bay leaf, and white pepper. Cook over medium heat until the vegetables are soft. Add the beans, reserved liquid, water, chipotle peppers, and chicken base. Crumble the bacon and add to the pot. Boil for 4 to 5 minutes. Cool slightly. Ladle the soup into a blender and purée until smooth. Put the soup back in the pot and simmer gently for 15 minutes longer. We like to top each serving with a tablespoon of Pico de Gallo (page 134).