2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ small onion, grated with juices retained
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 garlic clove, minced
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
¼ teaspoon Hungarian or hot paprika
2 cups heavy cream, room temperature
6 ounces Colby Jack cheese, shredded
6 ounces smoked Gouda, shredded
1 pound baby shell pasta, cooked al dente according to package directions
4 strips cooked bacon, crumbled
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf or curly parsley
1 finely chopped scallion (white and green parts)
1
Build the flavor.
Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and juices, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, white pepper, and paprika, and continue to cook for a few minutes to let the flavors and aroma bloom. Slowly stir in the heavy cream. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally, and cook until slightly thickened, about 8 minutes. Add the Colby and Gouda cheeses and stir until melted, then remove from the heat.
2
Add the pasta and serve.
Stir in the cooked pasta and toss until thoroughly combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve warm, garnished with bacon, parsley, and scallion.
roasted tomato and herb couscous
c
ouscous is a busy cook’s best friend. Most store-bought couscous is already presteamed and dried, so all you have to do is take it the final yards to the end zone for a kitchen touchdown. Boiled stock and a five-minute steep does the trick, so imagine adding a few extra touches for a dish that looks beautiful and holds up to the second-day test. There’s nothing better than something that tastes great hot as well as cold in my kitchen. Play with the couscous starting here and check the variations below.
SERVES 4
FOR THE TOMATOES
3 Roma tomatoes, sliced into ½-inch discs
2 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE COUSCOUS
1 cup couscous
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup finely chopped Vidalia or sweet onion
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1½ cups chicken stock
¼ cup chopped fresh basil
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf or curly parsley
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1
Roast the tomato slices.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Set a wire rack on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Place the tomato slices in a medium bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Toss, then place in one layer on the wire rack. Roast until the edges are shriveled and caramelized, but the center is still moist, about 25 minutes. Remove and allow the roasted tomato slices to cool, then gently chop. Set aside.
2
Make the couscous.
Pour the couscous into a large bowl with a lid or have plastic wrap ready to cover. In a medium pot over medium-low heat, combine the oil, onion, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Cook, stirring, until the onion is tender and fragrant, but not browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until tender and fragrant, another 6 to 8 minutes (the onions may caramelize a bit; that’s okay). Add the stock and bring to a boil. Immediately pour the stock into the couscous and stir, then quickly cover. Let rest for 5 minutes. Add the basil, parsley, lemon zest, and reserved tomatoes; fluff with a fork. Taste and season with a pinch of salt, if needed. Serve warm or cold.
tip!
Variations for couscous are endless. Try a Greek salad version with sliced olives, chopped cucumber, feta cheese, and a simple olive oil and vinegar dressing. Or toss with pesto for a quick side.
I make vegetable sides to enjoy solo.
And the same goes for these recipes. Yes, they are there to complement the star of the plate, but they shouldn’t receive any less attention or thought. I can’t remember having any of the usual childhood aversions to eating vegetables, but I do have my favorites and I’m sharing them with you. In a pinch I’ll just do my
Quick Any-Veggie Fix
, but if given time, I work up dishes to showcase the best of what grows from the earth. I even tried gardening once, but found myself obsessed with the weather and once it came time to harvest, it was hard to actually eat the vegetables that I’d tended; I’d built a bond. I ended up giving away most of my harvest, not able to bring myself to actually cook my hard work. It shows you how dedicated I was to the art of gardening—just not the art of eating the fruits of my labor. I wonder if I’m the only one who feels that way? These days, a farmers’ market will do, and I now grow flowers, succulents, and sustainable bamboo.
Kale in Coconut Milk
kale in coconut milk
k
ale has such a bitter bite that coconut milk is the perfect match to relax it a bit. Wilted and soaked with the flavor of pancetta, this kale is great alongside baked fish and grilled or braised chicken. I picked up my love for kale when I couldn’t find any collard or turnip greens during my time as a Californian. I found the taste to be similar and I really love the texture of the frilly leaves. This is a quick sauté, made even faster when I rinse and clean the kale as soon I get home from shopping.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¼ pound slab bacon (fatback), sliced, then cut into small ½-inch-thick rectangles
½ cup chopped Vidalia onion
1 bunch kale (1½ to 2 pounds), ribs discarded, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup coconut milk
1 cup beef broth
1
Crisp the bacon.
Put the butter and bacon in a large pan and cook over medium heat until the bacon begins to crisp and renders most of its fat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate (no need to line with a paper towel).
2
Cook the veggies.
Add the onion to the pan and cook until softened, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the kale and season with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Cook, tossing, until it wilts, about 5 minutes.
3
Finish and serve.
Add the coconut milk and broth and continue to cook until the kale softens, another 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the reserved cooked bacon, toss, and serve.
tip!
If you can’t find kale, any dark, leafy green will work here, but the more bitter the better.
quick any-veggie fix
w
hen I say “any veggie,” I mean it. This is the quickest way to get vegetables on the table, unless you just go raw. My favorites are leafy greens, frozen veggie packs, mushrooms, corn, and even just an array of onions and peppers. From here you can have fun with lemon zest, toasted nuts, your favorite herb blend—whatever you like.
SERVES 4
1 pound fresh or frozen vegetables, 1 kind or a mixture, chopped if necessary (corn, peas, lima beans, carrots, spinach, etc.)
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup chopped Vidalia or sweet onion
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, grated on a rasp or finely minced
½ cup chicken stock
½ cup fresh orange juice
1
Prepare the vegetables.
Peel, trim, or chop fresh vegetables if needed. There’s no need to thaw frozen vegetables, except spinach. If using spinach, thaw and remove excess water by wrapping in paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and squeezing.
2
Cook the veggies.
In a large straight-sided pan with a lid, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to swirl, add the onion, a pinch of salt, and a grind or two of pepper. Cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and your chosen vegetables and sauté until just slightly tender. Stir in the stock and orange juice. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce to a low simmer. Cook until the vegetables are tender and the liquid is reduced and slightly thickened, 10 to 15 minutes.
tips!
This is all about vegetables, but don’t be afraid to add cooked sausage, bacon, shredded chicken, or even fruits—try dried cranberries, chopped apples, or fresh blueberries.
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Substitute apple cider or another fresh fruit juice for the orange juice.