Tea and Cookies (14 page)

3.
Position a rack in the top third and center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.

4.
Using a sharp, thin-bladed knife, cut the dough rolls into ¼-inch-thick rounds. Place about 1 inch apart on the baking sheets. Bake, switching the position of the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through baking, until the edges of the cookies feel firm when lightly pressed, about 12 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes on the baking sheets. Transfer to wire cake racks and let cool completely.

5.
To make the ganache, bring the heavy cream to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the tea. Let stand for 5 minutes. Strain the cream mixture through a wire sieve into a bowl, pressing hard on the tea. Return the strained cream to the saucepan and reheat to a simmer. Put the chocolate in a small heat-proof bowl. Add the hot cream mixture and let stand until the chocolate softens, about 3 minutes. Stir with a rubber or silicone spatula until the chocolate melts. Place the small bowl in a larger bowl of ice water and let stand, stirring and scraping the sides of the small bowl often with the spatula, until cooled and thickened to a spreadable consistency.

6.
Transfer the ganache to a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch fluted tip, such as Ateco #825. Pipe a rosette of ganache on the flat side of one cookie, and sandwich it with a second cookie, flat sides together. (Or omit the pastry bag and tip, and simply spread the cookie with about 2 teaspoons of the ganache.) Repeat with the remaining cookies. Let stand until the ganache sets, about 1 hour. (The cookies can be stored in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.)

Macarons de Citron

MAKES ABOUT
12
COOKIES

Colorful
macarons
are a mainstay of Parisian tearooms and bakeries, and this pastel yellow lemon version is just the thing to nibble with a bracing black tea. Note that a French
macaron
(two smooth almond-based cookies sandwiched together with a tasty filling) is much different from an American macaroon. This cookie can be temperamental to make at home without a professional oven. After much experimentation, I have found the almond flour to be an important component; almonds ground in a food processor won’t work. One other tip: Make the meringue base in a heatproof bowl, but not the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer, as the amount isn’t sufficient for the whisk attachment to whip properly. If your
macarons
aren’t picture-perfect, don’t fret, as they will be highly edible anyway.

MACARONS

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons almond flour (see Note)

1¼ cups confectioners’ sugar

Grated zest of 1 lemon

3 large egg whites

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Yellow food coloring (optional)

LEMON BUTTERCREAM

1 large egg white

¼ cup granulated sugar

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at cool room temperature

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1.
Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Process the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until the mixture is very fine, about 30 seconds. Add the lemon zest and pulse to combine.

2.
Whisk the egg whites and granulated sugar together in a stainless-steel medium bowl that fits snugly over a medium saucepan of simmering water (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water). Heat the egg white mixture over the water, whisking constantly, until it is hot and opaque white, and the sugar is dissolved (dip in a clean finger to check), about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Using a hand-held electric mixer set at high speed (or a balloon whisk), beat until the meringue forms stiff, shiny peaks. Add a tiny amount of yellow food coloring to heighten the color, if you wish.

3.
In two additions, sprinkle the almond mixture over the meringue and fold it in. Do not overmix. Transfer the batter to a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch plain pastry tip, such as Ateco #805. Pipe twenty-four 2-inch-diameter domes of the batter on the baking sheet, spacing the domes about 1 inch apart. Smooth the tips of the domes with a water-moistened finger, if necessary. Let the
macarons
stand at room temperature for 20 minutes to 2 hours before baking. (This dries the surfaces slightly and makes for a better-looking cookie.)

4.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F.

5.
Bake for 5 minutes. Place a wooden spoon in the oven door to keep it ajar. Continue baking until the
macarons
are risen and set (a
macaron
will move as a unit if you wiggle it lightly with a finger), about 12 minutes longer.

6.
Let cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes. Using a small metal spatula, transfer the
macarons
to a wire cake rack and let cool completely.

7.
To make the buttercream, combine the egg white and granulated sugar in a heatproof medium bowl. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water over medium heat. Whisk the mixture until it is hot and opaque white, and the sugar is dissolved (dip in your finger to check), about 1½ minutes. Remove from the heat and place on a wire cake rack (to improve the air circulation under the bowl and speed cooling). Beat with a hand-held electric mixer with clean beaters on high speed until the meringue is very stiff and cooled, about 5 minutes. One tablespoon at a time, beat in the butter. Beat in the lemon zest and juice. Beat until the buttercream is very light and fluffy, about 1 minute.

8.
Using a small offset metal spatula or the back of a spoon, spread one flat side of a
macaron
with the filling, then sandwich it with a second
macaron,
flat sides facing. Let stand until the filling sets. (The cookies can be made up to 3 days ahead, stored in an airtight container at room temperature.)

LEMON CURD MACARONS:
Substitute about 2/3 cup store-bought lemon curd for the lemon butter-cream.

NOTE:
Almond flour (also called almond meal) is available at natural food stores and well-stocked groceries. Even though they are not marked as such, there are two varieties— ivory-colored (made from blanched almonds) and brown (ground from unskinned almonds). The texture and color of the former is lighter and makes a superior macaron batter. Unfortunately, it is also more expensive than the brown flour.

Cherry and Chocolate Rugelach

MAKES
45
COOKIES

These culinary icons of Jewish cuisine seem to be made for conversation over a steaming pot of tea. The exceptional dough (the secret is whipped cream cheese) comes from my friends Jeff and Ali Nathan, who taught me almost everything I know about Jewish cooking. While the classic rugelach filling contains nuts and raisins, there are as many variations as there are cooks, and I am very partial to this chocolate and cherry version. You might want to serve these with a strong Caravan tea, using cherry preserves instead of sugar for sweetening in the Russian manner.

DOUGH

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

One 8-ounce container whipped cream cheese

2 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

2 cups all-purpose flour

FILLING

¾ cup finely chopped walnuts

½ cup mini chocolate chips

3 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¾ cup cherry preserves, processed in a food processor or blender to mince the fruit

1.
To make the dough, beat the butter and cream cheese in a large bowl with an electric mixer on high speed (a standing electric mixer works best) until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Beat in the sugar, vanilla, and salt. On low speed, gradually add the flour and mix just until combined.

2.
Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly just until smooth. Divide the dough into thirds. Shape each portion into a thick rectangle and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.

3.
To make the filling, mix the walnuts and chocolate chips together in a medium bowl.

4.
Position racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.

5.
Mix the sugar and cinnamon together. Unwrap one portion of dough and place on a lightly floured work surface. Sprinkle the top lightly with flour, then roll out into a 14 × 6-inch rectangle. (If the dough cracks, let it stand at room temperature for 5 minutes to soften slightly, then try again.) Spread about ¼ cup of the preserves over the dough, leaving a ½-inch-wide border at all sides. Sprinkle with one-third of the walnut-chocolate mixture, then a generous tablespoon of the sugar-cinnamon mixture. Starting at the long end, roll up into a tight cylinder, and pinch the long seam closed. Using a sharp knife, cut crosswise into 15 pieces. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Place the rugelach, cut sides down, 1 inch apart on the baking sheets.

6.
Bake until lightly browned, switching the position of the sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through baking, about 25 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes. Transfer the rugelach to wire cake racks and cool completely. (The rugelach can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.)

CLASSIC RUGELACH:
In the filling, substitute ½ cup dried currants for the chocolate chips and apricot or seedless raspberry preserves for the cherry preserves. Increase the cinnamon to 1½ teaspoons.

Peanut Butter and Jelly Cookies

MAKES ABOUT
2½ DOZEN
COOKIES

A variation on thumbprint cookies, these little mouthfuls have become one of my favorite teatime nibbles. Of course, the combination of peanut butter and grape jelly is classic, but you can use your preferred preserves, jam, or jelly—strawberry or raspberry preserves are also wonderful. I can’t think of a better cookie for a young girl’s tea party.

½ cup smooth or crunchy peanut butter (see Note)