Authors: Andrew Hicks
âSo you saw a hell of a lot then.' Ben looked quite envious.
âYes, but what fascinated me most was their belief in spirits which seems to hold the place together. We couldn't go into their huts because our spirits might come in with us. And they'd had a run of accidents and fires and stuff in the last few years so they'd moved the whole village just to escape the evil spirits. We saw the remains of the old village not far away. Loads of good timber was left behind because if you take it with you, the spirits'll come too.'
âAnd after the night in the village?'
âWe walked for about five hours. Went down to a river and spent the night in huts, then the next day, elephant rides and bamboo rafting. That bit was tourist stuff, though the mountains and jungle are still the real thing.'
âAnd after Chiang Mai?' asked Ben artlessly.
âWell, you know what happened after Chiang Mai, don't you, Ben.'
âYou mean you cocking it up and not finding me at the Regal when I was there all the time?'
âIt wasn't my fault if the receptionist was incompetent,' said Emma.
âBloody was! It was horrible for me, you not showing up.'
âBut I asked at reception and they told me you weren't there. Not fun for me either.'
âBet you were pleased you missed me though,' he moaned.
âCome on Ben, give us a break!' she said, exasperated.
As they were talking, she looked up at the departures screen above their heads and saw that their flight was now listed for check in. The moment of tension was immediately forgotten and Ben got up and followed close behind as she walked briskly to the check-in desk, wheeling their bags on the trolley.
âPassport and ticket Ben, and put the stuff on the scales,' she said as they reached the desk.
âAnything you say m'lady,' teased Ben.
âCan we have two seats together please,' she asked the check-in clerk, âpreferably with a window and near the back.'
âWhy at the back?' he asked her.
âYou get a better view from behind the wing and if the plane crashes you're the last to crash.'
The next long wait was in the departures lounge where Ben browsed in Asia Books while Emma struggled with her novel. When he sat down again, they continued the debriefing where they had left off.
âSo after Chiang Mai, Cambodia was it?' he asked her.
âYes, Angkor Wat was something ⦠the biggest ancient temple complex in the world. It really made up for the road from Poipet to Siem Reap. Six hours like sardines in the back of an open pick-up ⦠heat and dust, sore bum, broken back and nowhere to put your legs. Don't know how we survived.'
âThat travel agent girl in Khao San warned us, didn't she.'
âYes, but it was worth it ⦠Khmer temples everywhere, and the countryside's so beautiful. Siem Reap's attractive in a dusty sort of way with a river and bullock carts ⦠the cartwheels have seventeen spokes, same as on the temple carvings. But now they're going for tourism in a big way and it's all changing too fast.'
âHow's Cambodia compared to Thailand?' he asked her.
âIt's dirt poor ⦠decades behind. Sitting in a French bistro with a line of amputees on the pavement looking in at us eating nouvelle cuisine for a quid or two really got to me. Though I wouldn't have missed going to Angkor with my mates for anything.'
âBetter than being with me?' he said playfully.
âShut up, Ben!' she said with a smile, pulling in her legs to let some people go by.
âSo where did you go then, Emm?'
âAfter Angkor, south to Samui and Koh Pha Ngan. I loved the islands.'
âGo with the same people?'
âNo, not all of them.'
âYou there for the Full Moon Party?'
âJust got back ⦠that's why I'm so knackered.' She pulled a wry face.
âHideous or what?'
âWell, if you like Ibiza and the other big scenes, it was amazing ⦠but better because it's on a brilliant beach. I wasn't wowed by it that much ⦠but yeah, I enjoyed it. Some of the party posers got to me though ⦠all pumped up and preening and carrying these little plastic buckets.'
âFor making sandcastles?'
âNo sweetie!' she said derisively. âBuckets with drinking straws sticking out of 'em ⦠usually a set of Red Bull, Sang Som and cola. Pretty lethal ⦠but fun! The music's good too and for company you've got about seven thousand sweaty people to choose from.'
âSo who did you choose then?' quizzed Ben, half-seriously.
âWouldn't you like to know!' she said, watching carefully for his reaction.
âNot that bothered,' he replied, pausing for effect. âI've got good memories of that full moon too.'
Emma looked at him hard, but it was too risky asking questions as any personal revelations would have to be reciprocated.
âHat Rin's incredible in the moonlight, but the Full Moon Party's a bit over the top,' she said, sticking to safer ground. âIncredible how they keep the booze flowing.'
âIt's big money keeping that number of people pissed all night.'
âTell you what really bugs me though,' she added. âIt's one thing the Thais having a good time and trashing their own place, but we ought to feel guilty doing it for them.'
She leaned back and yawned. It had been a long wait and the screen was still showing their flight as checking in.
âSo it was pretty good then. Thailand was okay after all?' asked Ben.
âI adore it ⦠but I feel bad about what mass tourism's doing. You know, the sex trade, uncontrolled development on the beaches and so on.'
âLike on Koh Chang ⦠it's an environmental disaster waiting to happen.'
âAnd my travelling was a bit superficial too. I'm not sure I even began to scratch the surface. You meet other travellers which is great but you can't even come close to the Thais. I love them to bits but it's so difficult to get to know them.'
Feeling suddenly unsettled, Ben wandered over to a window and stared out at the aircraft parked on the apron. Emma's comment about the Thais had brought back the pain of parting in all its fury. Not so far away, Fon would now be asleep in her hut with Joy and he was about to board a plane and fly to the other side of the world.
His thoughts were interrupted by Emma coming across and wanting to talk.
âSo you made lots of friends after I went?' she asked him.
âSure did, especially on Koh Chang,' he said as they sat down again.
âWhere else did you go then?'
âWent to the North East.'
âWhy the North East?' she probed.
âTo get away from the tourists and see a bit of the real Thailand.'
âHow did you manage that?'
âStayed with a rice-farming family in the middle of nowhere near Buriram.'
âAnd who were they?' she persisted.
âThai friends who asked me to go,' he said evasively, glancing around the lounge.
âYes, but who? Spill the beans, Ben.'
âTwo sisters from Koh Samet ⦠took me to see their mum.'
âDid I meet them?'
âNo, not really,' he said, staring vacantly at the people sitting opposite.
âHang on, you don't mean that masseur? Fon was it?'
He hesitated before answering.
âYes ⦠but so what? Her sister Jinda came too.'
âBen, I had a feeling you were going to go crazy about Fon. I know you too well.'
âSod off Emm. I haven't asked what you've been up to.'
âAnd I haven't asked you either. But I hope to God you knew what you were doing and haven't messed her about.'
âWhat d'you mean? Course I didn't mess her about,' he said edgily.
âYou know exactly what I mean, you donut. If she took you to meet her family, it must've been a big thing for her.'
âNo, it wasn't like that at all. She's serious and independent and not into boyfriends. And anyway she's got her dead sister's child to look after.'
They were interrupted for a moment by a couple wanting the seats next to them.
âSo what did the sister die of?' Emma asked, refusing to be distracted.
âNo idea.'
âAnd do you know why Fon took the child? When we had our bust-up you told me she had a boyfriend somewhere.'
âWhat are you getting at?' he said, leaning forward and staring at the floor.
âNothing ⦠but can you take everything she says at face value? She probably tells you what she thinks you want to hear.'
âI'm sure I can trust her,' he said sharply, shifting uncomfortably in his seat.
âBut can she trust
you,
Ben? Knowing you, you probably raised her hopes and promised the earth. You don't know you're doing it, but you come on so strong.'
âCourse I didn't! And she's quite capable of looking after herself anyway,' he said irritably.
âBut you're so unequal, Ben. The thought of marrying a rich foreigner must be irresistible, even for the most independent Thai woman. Especially as she's got a child to think of.'
âCome on, Emm! Marriage? Do you really think I'd rush into something with a girl off the beach who hardly speaks English. Anyway there's not a chance of me staying in Thailand or making a living here ⦠even if I wanted to.'
âAnd what would mummy think if you brought home a Thai masseur?' she taunted him.
âNo way! It'd never work in England,' he said, glaring back at her, unable to believe he was saying all this.
âSo Ben, the whole affair was a non-starter from the beginning, wasn't it,' said Emma, rubbing it in. âBut I bet Fon doesn't look at a quick fling in the way you do. I dread to think of her falling for you and waiting on the island for you to come back and rescue her.'
âNo Emm, you've got it all wrong,' said Ben looking rattled.
âHave I? I hope so for Fon's sake.'
The screen was now listing Qantas flight QF301 as ready for boarding, so they gathered their things and walked to the boarding gate, Ben silent and miserable.
Sitting together on the plane for the long flight home, they were plied with surprisingly good food and a generous flow of Australian wine. Feeling mellow and sleepy, both their tongues began to loosen.
âSo our Thailand trip didn't exactly turn out as we expected, did it,' said Ben.
âIn Bangkok I wished I'd never come. Once I'd dumped you, it was okay though,' said Emma with a twinkle.
âI love you too, Emm! Bet you went wild on your own.'
âWell, it's my life, but if you really want to know, I didn't go to Chiang Mai with a bloke ⦠I went with two. Though now there's nothing ongoing as they say.'
âYou went off me bigtime, didn't you,' he said resentfully. âCan't think why.'
âBecause you really pissed me off, Ben Farnsworth. You and your talk about having a cultural experience when you were only there for the beer. All you wanted was to skate over the surface and use the place as an adventure playground, just like the typical traveller.'
âWell, I saw more than you did. I went out and helped with the rice harvest in the North East and met the locals.'
âAnd got into their knickers! That's one way in I suppose.'
âNo, seriously, Emm. I learned a lot ⦠I mean about the gap between us and the rest of the world,' he said earnestly. âThink of the rice farmers next time you chuck rice in the bin. We're seriously rich compared to them.'
âSuppose I was only a tourist,' admitted Emma, âso maybe you didn't do too badly.'
âYou should've stuck with me then,' he grinned.
âNo, Ben, splitting up was the right thing. It gave us the chance to be ourselves for a change.'
She stared out at the light on the wing tip flashing in the darkness.
âBut Emm, it was a real shock when you dumped me ⦠couldn't see what I'd done wrong,' he said quietly.
âYou mean all those naughty things that made me cross!' she said icily. âLike you leering at the strippers, just gagging to fuck them? I wasn't jealous, but you were so pathetic, Ben. And you walked all over me.'
âNo, I never!' he said without much conviction.
âYou damned well did! You took me for granted, you didn't listen to me, didn't give me any space ⦠and, worst of all, you told me I was fat. You managed to make me feel bad about myself in just about every way possible.'
âThat's really rubbish.'
â ⦠and just when I was having an all-time low.'
âWere you, Emm? Why?' he said, sounding surprised.
âThink it was a touch of DAG syndrome. You know ⦠depression after graduating. So I tried binge eating and travelling with you instead. Stupid or what!'
âThanks Emm! Anyway, it was the same for me ⦠I'd just graduated too.'
âYes, but you've always got your family backing you up and you never have any doubts about yourself. You were just so bloody irritating, Ben, I could've killed you.'
âStill homicidal are we then?' he joked.
âNot now ⦠well, not quite as bad. Maybe I don't care any more.' She downed the rest of her red wine and looked around for the stewardess.
âWell, I'm sorry I wasn't the perfect man, but at least I didn't go with any of the bar girls ⦠not once.'
âI wouldn't be sitting anywhere near you if I thought you had!' she said forcefully.
âAnd, Emm, I'm sorry I got up your nose in Bangkok, because now the commercial sex scene really turns me off. Selling the Thai girl to promote tourism makes me puke.'
âYou always were a bit slow off the mark. In Spain when I wouldn't go to the bullfight you thought I was being a wimp. Same as the bullfighting, just by sitting in the bars and buying beer you sustain the trade in women.'
âSuppose it does â¦'
âAnd for God's sake Ben, stop calling them Thai girls ⦠they're not girls, they're women.'