Thanksgiving 101 (7 page)

1.
Using a large, sharp knife, trim the fennel of any bruises. If the feathery green fronds are still attached, trim them off, too. (If you want the salad to have a more pronounced anise flavor, chop the fronds and stir into the salad to taste.) Cut the fennel in half lengthwise. Locate the tough, solid “heart” that grows up from the bottom of each half, and remove by cutting it out in a wedge. Place the fennel, cut side down, on the work surface, and cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick strips. Transfer the fennel to a large bowl and toss with 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice.

2.
Rinse the pears well, but do not peel. Cut each pear lengthwise into quarters and trim away the core. Cut the pear into ½-inch-wide wedges. Add to the bowl and toss with the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice. While tossing gently, drizzle with the olive oil and season with the salt and pepper. (The salad can be prepared 6 hours ahead, covered tightly, and refrigerated.)

3.
To serve, separate the radicchio leaves into separate “cups.” (Save any leftover radicchio for another use.) Mix the hazelnuts into the salad. Using a slotted spoon, place equal amounts of the salad into the radicchio cups. Place the radicchio cups on individual plates. Drizzle the radicchio cups and the area on the plate around it with the juices in the bowl, and serve immediately.

Shrimp Salad on Mesclun with Saffron Vinaigrette

Mesclun, the colorful combination of baby greens that can be found in just about every supermarket these days, is the foundation of many a fine salad. With firm, pink shrimp in a bright yellow saffron dressing, this combination of flavors really piques the appetite. The problem is, it’s so delicious that guests could easily fill up on it, so this recipe makes modest servings.

SAFFRON VINAIGRETTE

1.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the boiling water and saffron in a medium bowl and let stand for 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice, honey, garlic, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the olive oil. Set the vinaigrette aside.

2.
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until the shrimp turn opaque and firm, about 3 minutes (the water does not have to return to a boil). Drain and rinse under cold running water until easy to handle. Peel and devein the shrimp.

3.
Transfer the shrimp to a medium bowl. Add ½ cup of the saffron vinaigrette, the red bell pepper, and the parsley, and toss well. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. Cover and refrigerate the remaining vinaigrette.

4.
When ready to serve, in a large bowl, toss the mesclun with the remaining dressing. On one side of each chilled dinner plate, spoon equal amounts of the shrimp salad. Heap the mesclun on the other side. Serve immediately.

The Main Event

E
veryone wants a perfect, moist, golden-brown bird on the Thanksgiving table. Over the years, I have listened to friends and students relate their special, secret, ultimate, best-ever ways to roast the bird. I have tried them all, and just when I thought I was finished, along came even more techniques. In the last few years alone, these included roasting in a very hot oven, deep-frying outside in a huge pot of fat, and soaking overnight in a big pot of brine. Each absolutely guaranteed the best turkey ever. While I have my favorite method (Perfect Roast Turkey with Best-Ever Gravy), there are reasons to consider the other recipes. For example, you may be cooking against the clock, so the high-temperature method will save valuable time (if you don’t factor in the cleaning of the oven before and after roasting). Or maybe this year you have an itch to smoke the bird outside on the grill, and need to know how to pull it off. So I offer the other recipes, but with my frank evaluations and detailed instructions based on my experience.

Turkey is not always the only game in town on Thanksgiving Day. Ham often makes a guest appearance. For my many friends of Italian heritage, it isn’t Thanksgiving if there isn’t lasagna on the table, so I give a classic version of that beloved dish. There’s also a special squash and rice dish for vegetarian guests.

But regardless of how you plan to cook your turkey, there are general questions that have to be answered first.

Types of Turkey

Other than gender, are there any differences between hen and tom turkeys? Is one more tender than the other?

Hens are female turkeys, weighing 8 to 16 pounds. Male toms, bred to yield a high proportion of the white breast meat that most Americans prefer, weigh 14 to 26 pounds. The size of the bird relates to its age. Turkeys are often labeled “young,” because no commercial turkey is much older than twenty-six weeks. Thanks to modern animal-husbandry methods, there is no difference in flavor or tenderness between toms and hens. In the old days, a younger bird meant a more tender one, and while an old tom had plenty of flavor, it was also tougher. Unlike beef, turkeys are hormone-and steroid-free.

What are the differences between fresh and frozen turkeys?

There are actually three designations for fresh and frozen turkeys:

• “Frozen” turkeys have been deep-chilled at 0°F and below. They are at their best if defrosted and cooked within one year of purchase. (If you’ve ever wondered how your supermarket can give away free frozen turkeys as premiums at Thanksgiving time, it’s probably because they are using up last year’s surplus.)
  
• “Fresh” birds have never been chilled below 26°F, and have a correspondingly short shelf life. Since poultry freezes at 8°F lower than water does, turkeys with partially frozen flesh can still be considered fresh, though this discrepancy may seem odd. This partial freezing greatly extends the turkey’s shelf life, so we have to cut the industry a little slack in this department. Fresh turkeys are easily available at supermarkets or butchers. You rarely have to special-order them anymore unless your butcher requires you to do so or you are concerned about getting a certain size. Buy fresh turkey no earlier than two days before roasting, even if a weekend purchase would be more convenient. Keep in mind that home refrigerators are warmer than the commercial walk-ins, and that the sell-by date is more useful for the retailer than the consumer. I always buy a fresh turkey.
  
• A turkey kept at temperatures between 0° and 26°F is considered “hard-chilled.” You won’t see turkeys labeled hard-chilled, though, as each turkey producer is allowed to create their own name for this designation, as long as it isn’t misleading. In 2005, about 40 million turkeys were consumed over Thanksgiving. In order to get that many holiday turkeys to market and sold within a reasonable time, the hard-chilled method is necessary. Sometimes flash-chilled turkeys feel soft on the outside, but the giblets are frozen inside. If that happens, just run cold water in the water cavity until the bird thaws.
  

What about frozen turkeys?

Frozen turkeys are the least expensive, but freezing dries out the turkey meat, and more moisture is lost down the drain during defrosting. Good turkey producers always inject the birds with a moistening solution to replace the lost liquid. The best frozen turkeys have been injected with only wholesome ingredients like broth, vegetable oil, and seasonings. I don’t like birds that have been pumped with artificial flavorings and preservatives. (On the other hand, it’s not a good idea to freeze a fresh bird that hasn’t been injected with any moisteners.) Also, frozen birds require advance planning to defrost. I hardly have enough room in my refrigerator at holiday time as it is, without a huge turkey taking up space for three to five days while it thaws. Considering the minor
difference in price between the average frozen and fresh turkeys, why not get the best you can afford?

I have to get a frozen bird because I can only shop on weekends. How do I defrost it?

First and foremost, never defrost a turkey at room temperature.

Allow enough time for the turkey to thaw.
It takes a full 24 hours to defrost each 5 pounds of turkey in the refrigerator
. So, if you want a 25-pound turkey to be thoroughly defrosted by Thanksgiving morning, you must buy it by the preceding Sunday at the latest. (I’d buy it on Saturday, just to be sure.)

If you are in a hurry, a second-best option is to defrost the bird in a large sink of cold water, allowing 30 minutes per pound, changing the water and turning the turkey often. Do
not
add warm water to hasten the process.

Don’t defrost a turkey in the microwave oven. The turkey is irregularly shaped, and some parts of the bird will cook while others are still defrosting. Besides, most microwave ovens won’t hold a bird larger than 12 pounds.

What do you think about self-basting birds?

Self-basting birds, available fresh and frozen, have been “enhanced” (in the eyes of the producer) with flavorings, some natural and some artificial. They purport to make the turkey moist—I say they make the turkey soggy and wet, and predisposed to fall apart when being lifted from the pan. They say the basting liquid makes the turkey taste better—I believe a turkey tastes good enough without fake flavorings. I want to promote turkeys that taste like turkey, not canned soup. And, I
like
to baste the bird, so the concept of “self-basting” leaves me cold. Not only does opening the oven and basting give the cook an idea of the turkey’s progress, but the hot basting liquid helps burnish the skin with tasty browned juices.

My farmers’ market has organic, free-range birds. Are they worth the price?

While the terms “organic” and “free-range” may seem clear-cut to the consumer, conjuring up visions of turkeys on pastoral farms, contentedly pecking away in outdoor pens under a cloudless sky, the actual USDA definitions are somewhat loose. Generally, “organic poultry” has been raised on organically grown, antibiotic-free feed. Because they are kept in such close quarters, commercially raised meat and poultry are routinely fed antibiotics to help keep them healthy. The lack of antibiotics in your food could be an important issue to you.

While some organic (and commercial) producers may tout that their birds are “hormone-free,” this is an empty phrase because hormones have been banned from all poultry since the 1950s. (This is not true of most American beef, where speedy growth is chemically enhanced, and is one of the reasons why some people choose to avoid red meat.) So is the term “all-natural,” because there can be products in most commercial poultry feed that may be natural, but you still may not want them in your turkey’s feed, knowing that they will of course end up in you, too. If an organic bird is labeled “all-natural,” it has a bit more meaning, as the feed is likely to be vegetarian as well as organic, since often there are animal by-products in commercial feed.

“Free-range” turkeys, which are often organic, have been raised in a relatively spacious environment that gives them access to open spaces. But many turkeys that are not called free-range may have been raised in hen-houses with the same amount of space. Free-range means that the turkeys have access to the
outdoors, usually through an open door in the henhouse. This is all well and good, except that turkeys are flocking birds, and the entire flock is usually quite happy staying inside—your free-range bird may have never ranged free by its own choice. These birds can be excellent, but they still need to be cooked carefully for fine results. They are significantly more expensive than ordinary fresh turkeys, and whether they are worth it is up to you. If your guests are all adults who love eating out at fancy restaurants, try an organic bird, whether it is free-range or not.

What are heritage turkeys?

By far, the turkeys that grace most tables on Thanksgiving are of the Large White or Broad Breasted Bronze breeds. These birds were developed to grow quickly and yield copious servings of white meat from their enormous breasts. Before the advent of these commercial turkeys, holiday birds were raised by local producers from old breeds like Beltsville Small White, Black, Standard Bronze, Narragansett, Slate, White Holland, Royal Palm, Jersey Buff, and Bourbon Red. Recently, some farmers have been reviving these retired “standard” breeds, and lovers of old-fashioned flavors have lined up to sample the wares. Heritage turkeys can be purchased at high-end markets or mail-ordered during the holidays, but as supplies are limited, reserve yours early.

I have found that it is best to find a current, local producer, putting you in direct contact with your source, which is easy to accomplish with an online search. Slow Food, an international culinary organization dedicated to preserving food traditions, has a state-by-state list at http://www.slowfoodusa.org/ark/turkeys.html. Freshness is key, because if the bird is hard-frozen for mail delivery across the country, the juiciness of the roasted bird will be compromised. Expect a bird with deep, old-fashioned flavor, and meat that is noticeably darker and firmer than a supermarket brand. Do not be alarmed if the bird has a humped breastbone or if the skin if freckled, which actually indicates its heritage status. As heritage turkeys are bred to retain their natural conformation, they will be on the relatively small side—do not expect to find any 25-pound heritage mega-birds.

My specialty butcher carries wild turkeys. What are they like?

Today, most wild turkeys are actually farm-raised. They are very full-flavored, but not gamy like hunter-bagged wild turkeys. (True wild turkeys are so chewy that some cooks roast only the tender breast, and stew or grind the tough dark meat.) I like to say they are to regular turkeys what sourdough bread is to white bread. Some people just like the complex flavor of the former better than the latter.

Wild turkeys look much different than regular ones, with a high, humped breastbone and freckled white skin. The freckling comes from the pigmentation in the feather quills—regular turkeys are bred with white feathers that leave no colored freckle when plucked. While wild turkeys may look meaty, they actually have a very low meat-to-bone ratio. Their weight ranges from only 6 to 12 pounds. Allow about 1½ pounds per person. Due to supply-and-demand problems, you may not get the exact size bird you ordered. More than once I have had to supplement a wild turkey with a small ham or another main dish because the butcher only had tiny birds available. They are very lean, and should be roasted only from 170° to 175°F or the meat will dry out. The dark meat may be a little pink, but it is safe to eat. If you prefer your dark meat more well done, just pop the sliced meat back into a 400°F oven for a few minutes—it will probably be cooked by the time you get around to serving the mashed potatoes.

My neighbor swears by kosher turkeys. What makes them different?

Kosher turkeys are raised free-range in a manner similar to organic turkeys and are fed antibiotic-free feed. They are slaughtered and salted according to Jewish dietary laws. Some cooks feel that the slaughtering gives the birds a fresher, cleaner taste. The salting seasons the turkeys and makes their meat somewhat firmer than that of regular birds. These extra steps are labor-intensive, so kosher turkeys always cost more. Many kosher turkeys are frozen, so defrost them properly to protect your investment.

Getting Ready

How much turkey should I buy?

Estimate 1 pound per person, which allows for a modest amount of seconds or leftovers. Larger toms are very chesty with lots of breast meat, so you will get more servings from a big bird.

My family likes white meat and we never have enough to go around. Any solutions?

Thanks to the year-round popularity of turkey, it’s easy to buy individual parts to roast for extra servings. Most packaged parts have cooking instructions, but here are some general guidelines:

For extra white meat, buy turkey breast halves. (Turkey breast halves, with the skin and bone, are tastier than boneless, skinless breasts, and cook more quickly than whole breasts.) Place them in an oiled roasting pan, rub with softened butter, and season with salt and pepper. Add ½ cup broth or water to the pan. Roast in a preheated 350°F oven, basting occasionally, until a meat thermometer reads 170°F, 20 to 25 minutes per pound.

If you need extra drumsticks or wings, always a favorite with kids, they can be roasted in the same manner, allowing 1½ to 2 hours at 350°F to cook until tender.

I have a huge crowd coming, but I can’t handle roasting and carving two turkeys. Now what?

You will need two ovens. In the first oven, roast a large tom to present as a centerpiece; it can be carved while everyone admires it. In the second oven, roast turkey parts as directed above. The turkey parts will only take an hour or two to roast. Cover them loosely with aluminum foil and keep them in a warm place until ready to serve. (The USDA advises not holding cooked poultry for longer than 1 hour.) The second oven will now be empty and available to bake all the side dishes.