The Audubon Reader (49 page)

It seemed to us as if we were approaching the end of the world. The country was perfectly flat, and so far as we could survey it, presented the same wild and scraggy aspect. My companion, who had traveled there before, assured me that at particular seasons of the year he had crossed the barrens when they were covered with water fully knee-deep when according to his expression they “looked most awful”; and I readily believed him, as we now and
then passed through muddy pools which reached the saddle girths of our horses. Here and there large tracts covered with tall grasses and resembling the prairies of the western wilds, opened to our view. Wherever the country happened to be sunk a little beneath the general level it was covered with cypress trees, whose spreading arms were hung with a profusion of Spanish moss. The soil in such cases consisted of black mud and was densely covered with bushes, chiefly of the
Magnolia family.

We crossed in succession the heads of three branches of
Haw Creek, of which the waters spread from a quarter to half a mile in breadth and through which we made our way with extreme difficulty. While in the middle of one, my companion told me that once when in the very spot where we then stood his horse chanced to place his forefeet on the back of a large
alligator which, not well pleased at being disturbed in his repose, suddenly raised his head, opened his monstrous jaws and snapped off a part of the lips of his affrighted pony. You may imagine the terror of the poor beast which, however, after a few plunges, resumed its course and succeeded in carrying its rider through in safety. As a reward for this achievement it was ever after honored with the appellation of “Alligator.”

We had now traveled about twenty miles, and the sun having reached the zenith, we dismounted to partake of some refreshment. From a muddy pool we contrived to obtain enough of tolerably clear water to mix with the contents of a bottle, the like of which I would strongly recommend to every traveler in these swampy regions; our horses, too, found something to grind among the herbage that surrounded the little pool; but as little time was to be lost we quickly remounted and resumed our disagreeable journey during which we had at no time proceeded at a rate exceeding two miles and a half in the hour.

All at once, however, a wonderful change took place: the country became more elevated and undulating; the timber was of a different nature and consisted of red and live
oaks, magnolias and several kinds of pine. Thousands of “mole-hills” or the habitations of an animal here called “the salamander,” and “gopher’s burrows” presented themselves to the eye and greatly annoyed our horses, which every now and then sank to the depth of a foot and stumbled at the risk of breaking their legs and what we considered fully as
valuable, our necks. We now saw beautiful lakes of the purest water and passed along a green space having a series of them on each side of us. These sheets of water became larger and more numerous the farther we advanced, some of them extending to a length of several miles and having a depth of from two to twenty feet of clear water; but their shores being destitute of vegetation, we observed no birds near them. Many
tortoises, however, were seen basking in the sun and all as we approached plunged into the water. Not a trace of man did we observe during our journey, scarcely a bird and not a single quadruped, not even a rat; nor can one imagine a poorer and more desolate country than that which lies between the
Halifax River, which we had left in the morning, and the undulated grounds at which we had now arrived.

But at length we perceived the tracks of living beings and soon after saw the huts of
Colonel Rees’s Negroes. Scarcely could ever African traveler have approached the city of Timbuktu with more excited curiosity than we felt in approaching this plantation. Our Indian horses seemed to participate in our joy and trotted at a smart rate towards the principal building, at the door of which we leaped from our saddles just as the sun was withdrawing his ruddy light. Colonel Rees was at home and received us with great kindness. Refreshments were immediately placed before us, and we spent the evening in agreeable conversation.

The next day I walked over the plantation and examining the country around, found the soil of good quality, it having been reclaimed from swampy ground of a black color, rich and very productive. The greater part of the cultivated land was on the borders of a lake which communicates with others leading to the St. John’s River, distant about seven miles, and navigable so far by vessels not exceeding fifty or sixty tons. After breakfast our amiable host shewed us the way to the celebrated spring, the sight of which afforded me pleasure sufficient to counterbalance the tediousness of my journey.

This spring presents a circular basin having a diameter of about sixty feet, from the center of which the water is thrown up with great force, although it does not rise to a height of more than a few inches above the general level. A kind of whirlpool is formed, on the edges of which are deposited vast quantities of shells, with
pieces of wood, gravel and other substances which have coalesced into solid masses having a very curious appearance. The water is quite transparent, although of a dark color, but so impregnated with
sulfur that it emits an odor which to me was highly nauseous. Its surface lies fifteen or twenty feet below the level of the woodland lakes in the neighborhood and its depth in the autumnal months is about seventeen feet when the water is lowest. In all the lakes, the same species of shells as those thrown up by the spring occur in abundance, and it seems more than probable that it is formed of the water collected from them by infiltration, or forms the subterranean outlet of some of them. The lakes themselves are merely reservoirs containing the residue of the waters which fall during the rainy seasons and contributing to supply the waters of the St. John River, with which they all seem to communicate by similar means. This spring pours its waters into “
Rees’s Lake” through a deep and broad channel called
Spring Garden Creek. This channel is said to be in some places fully sixty feet deep, but it becomes more shallow as you advance towards the entrance of the lake, at which you are surprised to find yourself on a mud flat covered only by about fifteen inches of water under which the depositions from the spring lie to a depth of four or five feet in the form of the softest mud, while under this again is a bed of fine white sand. When this mud is stirred up by the oars of your boat or otherwise it appears of a dark green color and smells strongly of sulfur. At all times it sends up numerous bubbles of air, which probably consist of sulfurated hydrogen gas.

The mouth of this curious spring is calculated to be two and a half feet square; and the velocity of its water during the rainy season is three feet per second. This would render the discharge per hour about 499,500 gallons.
Colonel Rees showed us the remains of another spring of the same kind which had dried up from some natural cause.

My companion the engineer having occupation for another day, I requested Colonel Rees to accompany me in his boat towards the River St. John, which I was desirous of seeing, as well as the curious country in its neighborhood. He readily agreed and after an early breakfast next morning we set out accompanied by two servants to manage the boat. As we crossed Rees’s Lake I observed
that its northeastern shores were bounded by a deep swamp covered by a rich growth of tall cypresses, while the opposite side presented large marshes and islands ornamented by
pines, live
oaks and
orange trees. With the exception of a very narrow channel, the creek was covered with
nymphaea [
water lilies], and in its waters swam numerous
alligators, while
Ibises,
Gallinules, Anhingas,
Coots and
Cormorants were seen pursuing their avocations on its surface or along its margins. Over our heads the
Fish Hawks were sailing, and on the broken trees around we saw many of their nests.

We followed
Spring Garden Creek for about two miles and a half and passed a mud bar before we entered “
Dexter’s Lake.” The bar was stuck full of
unios in such profusion that each time the Negroes thrust their hands into the mud they took up several. According to their report these shellfish are quite unfit for food. In this lake the water had changed its hue and assumed a dark chestnut color, although it was still transparent. The depth was very uniformly five feet and the extent of the lake was about eight miles by three. Having crossed it, we followed the creek and soon saw the entrance of
Woodruff’s Lake, which empties its still darker waters into the St. John’s River.

I here shot a pair of curious Ibises … and landed on a small island covered with wild orange trees, the luxuriance and freshness of which were not less pleasing to the sight than the perfume of their flowers was to the smell. The group seemed to me like a rich bouquet formed by nature to afford consolation to the weary traveler cast down by the dismal scenery of swamps and pools and rank grass around him. Under the shade of these beautiful evergreens and amidst the golden fruits that covered the ground while the hummingbirds fluttered over our heads, we spread our cloth on the grass, and with a happy and thankful heart I refreshed myself with the bountiful gifts of an ever-careful Providence.
Colonel Rees informed me that this charming retreat was one of the numerous
terrae incognitae
of this region of lakes and that it should henceforth bear the name of “
Audubon’s Isle.”

In conclusion, let me inform you that the spring has been turned to good account by my generous host Colonel Rees who, aided by my amiable companion the engineer, has directed its current so as to turn a mill which suffices to grind the whole of his sugar cane.

St. Augustine, East Florida

1 February 1832

My dear sir,

I have been in this infirmary of the Floridas and around it for nearly two months.

I would have written to you long ere this but I tell you the truth I have been extremely engaged both in traveling and drawing besides an immensity of writing connected with the excursions of myself and party.

The letters which you so kindly presented me with have been of essential service to us all ever since we reached the Southern states—Charleston and its neighbors have afforded me all that could possibly be expected …

I have received from the Honorable
Lewis McLam a letter which has enabled me and my small party to be received on board the U.S. schooner the
Spark
, Lieut. Commander Piercy (Wm. P.), who has received us with great kindness and is anxious to do all in his power to accommodate my views and wishes. Lieut. Piercy is a man of great enterprise and … talents, and in some confidential talks which we have had, it has been concluded that should the Secretary of the Navy, in concert with the Secretary of the Treasury, grant to him … the privilege of going around this coast and exploring where best suited for the advantage of science connected with the wishes of our Government for a few months, that much might be done and accomplished …

There is in this peninsula a portion of country quite unknown. It is called the
Everglades
. Give me a chance of investigating that Terra Incognita and I will do it or die in the attempt! The schooner has but little to do, our country is the richest in the world and I am at her service with zeal, heart and utmost willingness.

I write in a hurry, as I expect to leave in a few hours for the St. John’s River in the
Spark
, but I feel confident that you will understand me and I therefore hope that you will do all in your power
to enable the commander of the
Spark
and myself to traverse and coast the whole of the Floridas.

I have discovered a
few new species
, have collected a great number of specimens of birds, fishes, shells, &c., &c., and kept up the writing of a journal which I hope, when presented to the world, will give a knowledge of land & water and vegetations yet as unknown as they are valuable.

I hope you will make out to read this and hope also that you will do all in your power to assist the calling of science where a most excellent opportunity presents itself to ransack this extraordinary territory … The
Spark
will need a good Boat, a few additional hands and a new set of sails—

Pray, my dear good friend, do all in your power to enable this undertaking to go on …

Soon after landing at St. Augustine in East Florida I formed acquaintance with Dr.
Simmons, Dr. Pocher,
Judge Smith, the
Misses Johnson and other individuals, my intercourse with whom was as agreeable as beneficial to me.
Lieutenant Constantine Smith of the United States Army I found of a congenial spirit, as was the case with my amiable but since deceased friend, Dr. Bell of Dublin. Among the planters who extended their hospitality to me I must particularly mention General Hernandez and my esteemed friend
John Bulow, Esq. To all these estimable individuals I offer my sincere thanks.

While in this part of the peninsula I followed my usual avocations, although with little success, it being then winter. I had letters from the Secretaries of the Navy and Treasury of the United States to the commanding officers of vessels of war of the revenue service directing them to afford me any assistance in their power; and the schooner
Spark
having come to St. Augustine on her way to the St. John’s River, I presented my credentials to her commander Lieutenant Piercy, who readily and with politeness received me and my assistants on board. We soon after set sail with a fair breeze. The strict attention to duty on board even this small vessel of war afforded matter of surprise to me. Everything went on with the regularity of a chronometer: orders were given, answered to and accomplished before they ceased to vibrate on the ear. The neatness of the crew equaled the cleanliness of the white planks of the deck; the sails were in perfect condition; and, built as the
Spark
was, for swift sailing, on she went gamboling from wave to wave.