The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (16 page)

MAKES ABOUT
³⁄
₄
CUP

Each time you add oil, make sure to whisk until it is thoroughly incorporated. It’s fine to stop for a rest or to measure the next addition of oil. If the mayonnaise appears grainy or beaded after the last addition of oil, continue to whisk until smooth.

1.
Whisk egg yolk vigorously in medium bowl for 15 seconds. Add lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, and salt and whisk until yolk thickens and color brightens, about 30 seconds.

2.
Add ¹⁄
₄
cup oil in slow, steady stream, continuing to whisk vigorously until oil is incorporated completely and mixture thickens, about 1 minute. Add ¹⁄
₄
cup oil, whisking until completely incorporated, about 30 seconds more. Add remaining ¹⁄
₄
cup oil all at once and whisk until completely incorporated, about 30 seconds more. (Mayonnaise can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

Add 1¹⁄
₂
teaspoons grated lemon zest along with lemon juice.

Whisk 2 tablespoons more Dijon mustard into finished mayonnaise.

Stir 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon into finished mayonnaise.

MAKES ABOUT
1¹⁄
₂
CUPS

Use 1 whole large egg and double quantities of the other ingredients in Mayonnaise. Pulse all ingredients except oil in food processor 3 or 4 times to combine. With food processor running, add oil through feed tube in thin, steady stream until completely incorporated.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Aïoli is a quick emulsion sauce that by tradition is the centerpiece of a simple supper served with cooked vegetables and potatoes and steamed fish. When it’s made badly, the overwhelming impression is one of garlic: bitter, sharp, and long-lasting. We found that fine, evenly minced garlic maintained the smooth texture of the sauce and prevented oversize garlic bombs that exploded in the mouth. A garlic press or rasp-style grater helped us achieve an acceptably fine mince. We also scaled back the quantity of garlic—a single clove provided a pleasant, not shocking, heat. Finally, we balanced the sour lemon juice with a little sugar and used mild regular olive oil instead of the traditional extra-virgin choice. Armed with a food processor, we whipped our aïoli together in just 30 seconds.

MAKES ABOUT
³⁄
₄
CUP

Use this sauce as a condiment for meats, fish, and vegetables, or spread it on sandwiches. If necessary, remove the green germ (or stem) in the garlic before pressing or grating it; the germ will give the aïoli a bitter, hot flavor. If you do not have regular olive oil, use a blend of equal parts extra-virgin olive oil and vegetable oil. Ground white pepper is preferred because it’s not as visible in the finished aïoli as black pepper, but either can be used.

1.
Press garlic through garlic press or grate very fine on rasp-style grater. Measure out 1 teaspoon garlic; discard remaining garlic.

2.
Process garlic, egg yolks, lemon juice, sugar, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste in food processor until combined, about 10 seconds. With food processor running, gradually add oil in slow steady stream (process should take about 30 seconds); scrape down sides of bowl with rubber spatula and process 5 seconds longer. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve. (Aïoli can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

Serve this robust aïoli with roasted and grilled meats or grilled vegetables.

Add 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme to food processor with garlic.

Saffron aïoli is a nice accompaniment to fish and shellfish.

Combine ¹⁄
₈
teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled, and 1 teaspoon boiling water in small bowl; let steep 10 minutes. Add saffron to food processor with garlic; transfer finished aïoli to bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate at least 2 hours to allow saffron flavor to bloom. Stir before serving.

This mellow herb-flavored aïoli pairs nicely with seafood or vegetables.

Stir 2 tablespoons minced fresh basil or 1 tablespoon minced fresh dill into aïoli just before serving.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Arugula has a lively, peppery bite and so for salad, it’s important to choose accompaniments that can stand up to its assertive character. We found that the sweet and salty notes of fruits and cheeses work well as supporting players to arugula, and crunchy elements like nuts also provided a nice counterpoint. As for the dressing, a vinaigrette made with mustard alone turned out to be too spicy, but a surprise solution—a spoonful of jam—added fruity sweetness, pulling the flavors of the salad right in line.

SERVES 6

Although frying the prosciutto adds crisp texture to the salad, if you prefer, you can simply cut it into ribbons and use it as a garnish. Honey can be substituted for the raspberry jam.

1.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat; add prosciutto and fry until crisp, stirring frequently, about 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towel–lined plate and set aside to let cool.

2.
Whisk vinegar and jam in medium microwave-safe bowl; stir in figs. Cover with plastic wrap, cut several steam vents in plastic, and microwave on high until figs are plump, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Whisk in remaining 3 tablespoons oil, shallot, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
₈
teaspoon pepper; toss to combine. Let cool to room temperature.

3.
Toss arugula and vinaigrette in large bowl; season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide salad among individual plates; top each with portion of prosciutto, walnuts, and Parmesan. Serve immediately.

SERVES 6

Honey can be substituted for the apricot jam.

Whisk vinegar, oil, shallot, jam, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon pepper in large bowl. Toss fennel bulb with vinaigrette; let stand 15 minutes. Add arugula, fennel fronds, and grapes; toss and season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide salad among individual plates; top each with portion of Gorgonzola and pecans. Serve immediately.

SERVES 6

The sugared pistachios can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature. You can substitute an equal amount of roughly chopped toasted pistachios. Honey can be substituted for the marmalade.

SUGARED PISTACHIOS

SALAD

1. FOR THE SUGARED PISTACHIOS:
Line 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Toss pistachios with egg white in small bowl. Using slotted spoon, transfer nuts to prepared baking pan; discard excess egg white. Add sugar and stir until nuts are completely coated. Bake, stirring mixture every 5 to 10 minutes, until coating turns nutty brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer nuts to plate in single layer and let cool.

2. FOR THE SALAD:
Peel oranges, cut them into segments, then halve segments and drain to remove excess juice. Whisk oil, lemon juice, marmalade, shallot, mint, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
₈
teaspoon pepper in large bowl. Add arugula and oranges; toss and season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide salad among individual plates; top each with portion of feta and sugared pistachios. Serve immediately.

SERVES 6

Honey can be substituted for the apricot jam.

1.
Whisk vinegar and jam in medium microwave-safe bowl; stir in apricots. Cover with plastic wrap, cut several steam vents in plastic, and microwave on high until apricots are plump, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Whisk in oil, shallot, onion, ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
₈
teaspoon pepper; toss to combine. Let cool to room temperature.

2.
Toss arugula, pear, and vinaigrette in large bowl; season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide salad among individual plates; top each with portion of almonds and goat cheese. Serve immediately.