The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (203 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
The fish and chips served at most American pubs is mediocre at best. We wanted to develop a batter that would not only protect the fish as it cooked but would also provide the flesh with a nice, crisp contrast. A wet batter proved to be the most effective way to coat and protect the fish, and we liked beer, the traditional choice, as the liquid component. To keep the coating crisp, we found a 3:1 ratio of flour to cornstarch, along with a teaspoon of baking powder for airy lightness, was the key. A final layer of flour over the battered fish kept the coating in place as the fish fried.
See “PREPARING POTATOES FOR FISH AND CHIPS” illustrations that follow recipe.
SERVES 4
Any other similarly thick white fish, such as hake or haddock, would work here. For safety, use a Dutch oven with at least a 7-quart capacity. Any beer (even nonalcoholic beer), with the exception of dark stouts and ales, will work in this recipe. Serve with malt vinegar or tartar sauce.
3 | pounds russet potatoes, peeled, dried, sides squared off, and cut lengthwise into ¹⁄ |
3 | quarts plus ¹⁄ |
1¹⁄ | cups all-purpose flour |
¹⁄ | cup cornstarch |
Salt | |
¹⁄ | teaspoon cayenne pepper |
¹⁄ | teaspoon paprika |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
1 | teaspoon baking powder |
1¹⁄ | pounds boneless cod fillets, 1 inch thick, cut into 8 (3-ounce) pieces |
1¹⁄ | cups beer, chilled |
1.
Place potatoes in large bowl and toss with ¹⁄
4
cup oil. Cover and microwave until potatoes are partially translucent and pliable but still offer some resistance when pierced with paring knife, 6 to 8 minutes, tossing halfway through cooking time. Carefully uncover, then transfer to fine-mesh strainer set in sink. Rinse potatoes well under cold running water, then spread onto kitchen towels and pat dry. Let rest until room temperature, at least 10 minutes or up to 1 hour.
2.
While potatoes cool, whisk flour, cornstarch, 2 teaspoons salt, cayenne, paprika, and pepper in large bowl. Transfer ³⁄
4
cup flour mixture to rimmed baking sheet and set aside. Add baking powder to bowl with remaining flour mixture and whisk to combine.
3.
Heat 2 quarts oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until 350 degrees. Line baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels. Add fries to hot oil and increase heat to high. Fry, stirring with skimmer or slotted spoon, until potatoes turn light golden and just begin to brown at corners, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer fries to prepared baking sheet and let drain.
4.
Reduce heat to medium-high, add remaining 1 quart oil, and heat oil to 375 degrees. Line baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels. Meanwhile, thoroughly dry fish with paper towels, then dredge in flour mixture on baking sheet, shaking off excess. Transfer coated pieces to wire rack. Add 1¹⁄
4
cups beer to flour mixture in mixing bowl and stir until mixture is just combined (batter will be lumpy). Add remaining beer as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking after each addition, until batter falls from whisk in thin, steady stream and leaves faint trail across surface of batter.
5.
Using tongs, dip 1 piece fish in batter and, shaking gently, let excess run off. Place battered fish back onto baking sheet with flour mixture and turn to coat both sides. Repeat with remaining fish, keeping pieces in single layer on baking sheet.
6.
When oil reaches 375 degrees, increase heat to high and, using tongs, gently shake excess flour from fish fillets and add fish to oil. Fry, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer fish to prepared baking sheet and let drain. Allow oil to return to 375 degrees.
7.
Line baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels. Add all fries back to oil and fry until golden brown and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Season fries with salt to taste and serve immediately with fish.
1.
Trim each end. Carefully cut thin slice from 1 side. Rotate the potato, and repeat with remaining sides.
2.
Cut each potato lengthwise into ¹⁄
2
-inch-thick slices.
3.
Cut each potato slice into ¹⁄
2
-inch batons.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Batter-fried is the gold standard for fish with a flavorful coating, but frying can be a messy operation, and sometimes we want a healthier alternative. We wanted a recipe for moist, flavorful oven-baked fillets coated in a crunchy crust that would not merely play second fiddle to batter-fried fish, but stand as a worthy dish on its own. Meaty, dense varieties of fish, like swordfish and tuna, didn’t provide contrast between crust and interior, and thin fillets overcooked before the coating browned. Cod and haddock proved the best bet. Fresh bread crumbs created the best coating. To avoid soft, undercooked crumbs, we started by adding melted butter while processing the bread crumbs, and then crisped the crumbs in the oven to a deep golden-brown. We dipped the fillets first in flour and then in a thick wash made from eggs and mayonnaise before applying the browned crumbs. Placing the coated fish on a wire rack while baking allowed air to circulate, crisping all sides. We also boosted flavor by adding shallots and parsley to the breading and horseradish, cayenne, and paprika to the egg wash. As a final touch, we made a quick tartar sauce.
THAWING FROZEN FISH
Frozen fish should be fully thawed before cooking, ideally defrosted overnight in the refrigerator. Remove the fish from its packaging, lay it in a single layer on a rimmed plate (to catch any released water), and cover it with plastic wrap. Thoroughly dry fish before cooking. Alternatively, defrost fish under cold running water in its original packaging.
SERVES 4
To prevent overcooking, buy fish fillets at least 1 inch thick. The bread crumbs can be made up to 3 days in advance, cooled, and stored at room temperature in an airtight container. Serve with Sweet and Tangy Tartar Sauce (recipe follows).
4 | hearty slices white sandwich bread, torn into quarters |
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter, melted |
Salt and pepper | |
2 | tablespoons minced fresh parsley |
1 | shallot, minced |
¹⁄ | cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour |
2 | large eggs |
3 | tablespoons mayonnaise |
2 | teaspoons prepared horseradish (optional) |
¹⁄ | teaspoon paprika |
¹⁄ | teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional) |
1¹⁄ | pounds skinless cod, haddock, or other thick white fish fillets, 1 to 1¹⁄ |
Lemon wedges |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Pulse bread, melted butter, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon pepper in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses (you should have about 3¹⁄
2
cups crumbs). Transfer to rimmed baking sheet and bake until deep golden brown and dry, about 15 minutes, stirring twice during baking time. Cool crumbs to room temperature, about 10 minutes. Transfer crumbs to pie plate and toss with parsley and shallot. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees.
2.
Place ¹⁄
4
cup flour in second pie plate. In third pie plate, whisk eggs, mayonnaise, horseradish (if using), paprika, cayenne (if using), and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon pepper until combined. Whisk in remaining ¹⁄
4
cup plus 1 tablespoon flour until smooth.
3.
Spray wire rack with vegetable oil spray and place in rimmed baking sheet. Dry fish thoroughly with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Dredge 1 fillet in flour and shake off excess. Using tongs, coat fillet with egg mixture, then coat with bread-crumb mixture, pressing gently so that thick layer of crumbs adheres to fish. Transfer breaded fish to prepared wire rack. Repeat with remaining 3 fillets.
4.
Bake fish until fillets register 140 degrees, 18 to 25 minutes. Using thin spatula, transfer fillets to plates and serve immediately with lemon wedges.
