The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (252 page)

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Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen

Tags: #Cooking

BOOK: The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook
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MAKING A CLASSIC FRITTATA

Once bottom of frittata is set, use thin heatproof rubber spatula to lift edge closest to you. Tilt skillet slightly toward you so uncooked eggs run underneath. Return skillet to level position and swirl gently to evenly distribute eggs.

THICK AND HEARTY FRITTATA

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

More challenging to cook properly than a classic frittata, a thick frittata loaded with meat and vegetables often ends up dry, overstuffed, and overcooked. We wanted a frittata big enough to make a substantial meal for six to eight people—with a pleasing balance of egg to filling, firm yet moist eggs, and a supportive browned crust. We needed to be a little fussy about the cheese—Gruyère, cheddar, goat cheese, and fontina worked well. We found that vegetables and meats must be cut into small pieces and precooked to drive off excess moisture and fat. A little half-and-half added a touch of creaminess. Given the large number of eggs, we started the eggs on medium heat and stirred them so they could cook quickly yet evenly. Then we slid the skillet under the broiler until the top had puffed and browned, removing it just before the frittata was cooked through, allowing the residual heat to finish cooking the center.

HEARTY FRITTATA WITH ASPARAGUS, HAM, AND GRUYÈRE

SERVES 6 TO 8

A 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet is a must for this recipe. Because broilers vary so much in intensity, watch the frittata carefully as it cooks.

12

large eggs

3

tablespoons half-and-half

¹⁄
2

teaspoon salt

¹⁄
4

teaspoon pepper

2

teaspoons olive oil

8

ounces asparagus, trimmed and cut on bias into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces

4

ounces ¹⁄
4
-inch-thick deli ham, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch cubes

1

shallot, minced

3

ounces Gruyère cheese, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch cubes (³⁄
4
cup)

1.
Adjust oven rack 5 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Whisk eggs, half-and-half, salt, and pepper in medium bowl until well combined, about 30 seconds; set aside.

2.
Heat oil in 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering; add asparagus and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and almost tender, about 3 minutes. Add ham and shallot; cook until shallot begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir Gruyère into eggs. Add egg mixture to skillet and cook, using heatproof rubber spatula to stir and scrape bottom of skillet, until large curds form and spatula begins to leave wake but eggs are still very wet, about 2 minutes. Shake skillet to distribute eggs evenly; cook without stirring for 30 seconds to let bottom set.

3.
Broil until frittata has risen and surface is puffed and spotty brown, 3 to 4 minutes; when cut into with paring knife, eggs should be slightly wet and runny. Remove skillet from oven and let sit for 5 minutes. Using spatula, loosen frittata from skillet and slide onto serving platter or cutting board. Cut into wedges and serve.

HEARTY FRITTATA WITH BACON, POTATO, AND CHEDDAR

SERVES 6 TO 8

A 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet is a must for this recipe. Because broilers vary so much in intensity, watch the frittata carefully as it cooks.

12

large eggs

3

tablespoons half-and-half

¹⁄
2

teaspoon salt

¹⁄
4

teaspoon pepper

8

slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces

1

pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch cubes

4

ounces cheddar cheese, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch cubes (³⁄
4
cup)

3

scallions, sliced thin on bias

1.
Adjust oven rack 5 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Whisk eggs, half-and-half, salt, and pepper in medium bowl until well combined, about 30 seconds; set aside.

2.
Cook bacon in 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate; pour off all but 1 tablespoon bacon fat. Add potatoes to skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir cheddar, scallions, and bacon into eggs; add egg mixture to skillet and cook, using heatproof rubber spatula to stir and scrape bottom of skillet, until large curds form and spatula begins to leave wake but eggs are still very wet, about 2 minutes. Shake skillet to distribute eggs evenly; cook without stirring for 30 seconds to let bottom set.

3.
Broil until frittata has risen and surface is puffed and spotty brown, 3 to 4 minutes; when cut into with paring knife, eggs should be slightly wet and runny. Remove skillet from oven; let sit for 5 minutes. Using spatula, loosen frittata from skillet and slide onto serving platter or cutting board. Cut into wedges; serve.

HEARTY FRITTATA WITH BROCCOLI RABE, SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, AND FONTINA

SERVES 6 TO 8

A 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet is a must for this recipe. Because broilers vary so much in intensity, watch the frittata carefully as it cooks.

12

large eggs

3

tablespoons half-and-half

³⁄
4

teaspoon salt

¹⁄
4

teaspoon pepper

2

teaspoons olive oil

8

ounces broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

1

garlic clove, minced

¹⁄
8

teaspoon red pepper flakes

3

ounces Italian fontina cheese, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch cubes (³⁄
4
cup)

¹⁄
4

cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, rinsed, patted dry, and chopped coarse

1.
Adjust oven rack 5 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Whisk eggs, half-and-half, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt, and pepper in medium bowl until well combined, about 30 seconds; set aside.

2.
Heat oil in 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering; add broccoli rabe and remaining ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt and cook until rabe is beginning to brown and soften, 6 to 8 minutes. Add garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir fontina and sun-dried tomatoes into eggs; add egg mixture to skillet and cook, using heatproof rubber spatula to stir and scrape bottom of skillet, until large curds form and spatula begins to leave wake but eggs are still very wet, about 2 minutes. Shake skillet to distribute eggs evenly; cook without stirring for 30 seconds to let bottom set.

3.
Broil until frittata has risen and surface is puffed and spotty brown, 3 to 4 minutes; when cut into with paring knife, eggs should be slightly wet and runny. Remove skillet from oven and let sit for 5 minutes. Using spatula, loosen frittata from skillet and slide onto serving platter or cutting board. Cut into wedges and serve.

HEARTY FRITTATA WITH LEEK, PROSCIUTTO, AND GOAT CHEESE

SERVES 6 TO 8

A 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet is a must for this recipe. Because broilers vary so much in intensity, watch the frittata carefully as it cooks.

12

large eggs

3

tablespoons half-and-half

³⁄
4

teaspoon salt

¹⁄
4

teaspoon pepper

2

tablespoons unsalted butter

2

small leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly

4

ounces goat cheese, crumbled (1 cup)

3

ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch strips

¹⁄
4

cup chopped fresh basil

1.
Adjust oven rack 5 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Whisk eggs, half-and-half, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt, and pepper in medium bowl until well combined, about 30 seconds; set aside.

2.
Melt butter in 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add leeks and remaining ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt; reduce heat to low and cook covered, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir half of goat cheese, then prosciutto, and basil into eggs; add egg mixture to skillet and cook, using heatproof rubber spatula to stir and scrape bottom of skillet, until large curds form and spatula begins to leave wake but eggs are still very wet, about 2 minutes. Shake skillet to distribute eggs evenly; cook without stirring for 30 seconds to let bottom set.

3.
Sprinkle remaining goat cheese evenly over frittata. Broil until frittata has risen and surface is puffed and spotty brown, 3 to 4 minutes; when cut into with paring knife, eggs should be slightly wet and runny. Remove skillet from oven; let sit for 5 minutes. Using spatula, loosen frittata from skillet and slide onto serving platter or cutting board. Cut into wedges and serve.

CLASSIC QUICHE

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Our ideal quiche should have a tender, buttery pastry case embracing a velvety smooth custard that is neither too rich nor too lean. We tested numerous combinations of dairy and eggs to find the perfect combination for a medium-rich custard with a smooth texture. The baking temperature was equally important; 375 degrees was low enough to set the custard gently and hot enough to brown the top before the filling became dried out and rubbery. For the crust, we found that resting the dough in the refrigerator and then briefly chilling it in the freezer produced a flaky shell that kept its original shape and definition.

CLASSIC QUICHE LORRAINE

SERVES 8

You can use Foolproof, All-Butter, or Classic Single-Crust Pie Dough (
HERE
) for this quiche. The center of the quiche will be surprisingly soft when it comes out of the oven, but the filling will continue to set (and sink somewhat) as it cools.

8

slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces

2

large eggs plus 2 large yolks

1

cup whole milk

1

cup heavy cream

¹⁄
2

teaspoon salt

¹⁄
2

teaspoon white pepper

Pinch ground nutmeg

4

ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded (1 cup)

1

recipe Single-Crust Pie Dough, partially baked and warm

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees.

2.
Cook bacon in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate. Whisk eggs, egg yolks, milk, cream, salt, white pepper, and nutmeg together in medium bowl.

3.
Spread Gruyère and bacon evenly over bottom of warm pie shell and set shell on oven rack. Pour custard mixture into pie shell (it should come to about ¹⁄
2
inch below crust’s rim). Bake until light golden brown and knife blade inserted about 1 inch from edge comes out clean and center feels set but still soft, 32 to 35 minutes. Transfer quiche to wire rack and let cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

CRABMEAT QUICHE

Reduce milk and cream to ³⁄
4
cup each. Add 2 tablespoons dry sherry and pinch cayenne to custard mixture in step 2. Substitute 8 ounces (1 cup) cooked crabmeat tossed with 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives for bacon and cheese.

LEEK AND GOAT CHEESE QUICHE

Omit bacon. Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 2 leeks, white part only, halved lengthwise, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces, and washed thoroughly, and cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Reduce milk and cream to ³⁄
4
cup each. Substitute 4 ounces crumbled goat cheese for Gruyère; add leeks with cheese.

HAM AND ASPARAGUS QUICHE

Bring 1 quart water to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Meanwhile, fill large bowl with ice water. Add 8 ounces asparagus, trimmed and cut on bias into ¹⁄
2
-inch lengths, and 1 teaspoon salt to boiling water; cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain asparagus and transfer immediately to ice water. Drain again and pat dry with paper towels. Reduce milk and cream to ³⁄
4
cup each. Substitute asparagus and 4 ounces thinly sliced deli ham, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces, for bacon and cheese.

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