The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (74 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
PARSLEY—CURLY VERSUS FLAT-LEAF
You’ve probably noticed that your neighborhood grocer has two different varieties of this recognizable herb available (though there are actually more than 30 varieties out there): curly-leaf and flat-leaf (also called Italian). Curly-leaf parsley is more popular, but in the test kitchen flat-leaf is by far the favorite. We find flat-leaf to have a sweet, bright flavor that’s much preferable to the bitter, grassy tones of curly-leaf. Flat-leaf parsley is also much more fragrant than its curly cousin. While curly parsley might look nice alongside your steak, don’t count on it to improve flavor if you use it in cooking.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Our goal in developing our pesto was to heighten the basil and subdue the garlic flavors so that each major element balanced the other. We started with plenty of fresh basil and pounded to bruise it and release flavorful oils. To tame the raw garlic edge, we toasted it, toasting the nuts as well to give them more intense flavor. And, we used a food processor to combine the ingredients in our pesto quickly and easily.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA
Basil usually darkens in homemade pesto, but you can boost the green color a little by adding the optional parsley. For sharper flavor, use Pecorino Romano cheese in place of the Parmesan. When adding pesto to cooked pasta it is important to include 3 or 4 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water for proper consistency and even distribution.
3 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
¹⁄ | cup pine nuts |
2 | cups fresh basil leaves |
2 | tablespoons fresh parsley leaves (optional) |
7 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | cup finely grated Parmesan cheese or Pecorino Romano cheese |
1.
Toast garlic in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, shaking pan occasionally, until softened and spotty brown, about 8 minutes; when cool enough to handle, remove and discard skins. While garlic cools, toast nuts in now-empty skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until golden and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes.
2.
Place basil and parsley, if using, in gallon-size zipper-lock bag. Pound bag with flat side of meat pounder or rolling pin until all leaves are bruised.
3.
Process garlic, nuts, herbs, oil, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to small bowl, stir in Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Pesto can be refrigerated for up to 3 days in bowl with plastic wrap or thin layer of oil covering surface.)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Not all pesto is based on basil, pine nuts, and Parmesan. In Sicily, tomatoes and almonds take center stage. For our clean, bright version, we used toasted ground almonds, which provided body and crunch to offset the tomatoes’ pulpiness, and a modest amount of olive oil to make the sauce creamy without too much richness. The result was a tomato pesto with fruity, vibrant sweetness.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA
You may substitute ¹⁄
2
teaspoon red wine vinegar and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon of red pepper flakes for the pepperoncini. When adding pesto to cooked pasta it is important to include 3 or 4 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water for proper consistency and even distribution. Serve the pesto-coated pasta with grated Parmesan cheese.
12 | ounces cherry or grape tomatoes |
¹⁄ | cup fresh basil leaves |
¹⁄ | cup slivered almonds, toasted |
1 | small jarred pepperoncini, stemmed, seeded, and minced |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
1 | teaspoon salt |
Pinch red pepper flakes (optional) | |
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
Process tomatoes, basil, almonds, pepperoncini, garlic, salt, and pepper flakes, if using, in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. With machine running, slowly drizzle in oil, about 30 seconds. (Pesto can be refrigerated for up to 3 days in bowl with plastic wrap or thin layer of oil covering surface.)
Substitute ¹⁄
4
cup pine nuts for almonds and ³⁄
4
cup baby arugula for basil. Add 1¹⁄
4
teaspoons grated lemon zest and 1 teaspoon lemon juice to food processor with other ingredients. (Pesto can be refrigerated for up to 3 days in bowl with plastic wrap or thin layer of oil covering surface.)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For a pesto that can be prepared in colder months when basil is hard to come by, we turned to arugula, parsley, and thyme in place of basil and added flavor with nuts, mushrooms, and roasted red peppers. For easy preparation, we use the food processor to puree the sauce.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA
When adding pesto to cooked pasta it is important to include 3 or 4 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water for proper consistency and even distribution.
3 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
¹⁄ | cup pine nuts |
1 | cup baby arugula |
1 | cup fresh parsley leaves |
7 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup whole-milk ricotta cheese |
2 | tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Toast garlic in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, shaking pan occasionally, until softened and spotty brown, about 8 minutes; when cool enough to handle, remove and discard skins. While garlic cools, toast nuts in now-empty skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until golden and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes.
2.
Place arugula and parsley in gallon-size zipper-lock bag. Pound bag with flat side of meat pounder or rolling pin until all leaves are bruised.
3.
Process garlic, nuts, arugula, parsley, and oil in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to small bowl, stir in ricotta and Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Pesto can be refrigerated for up to 3 days in bowl with plastic wrap or thin layer of oil covering surface.)
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA
When adding pesto to cooked pasta it is important to include 3 or 4 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water for proper consistency and even distribution.
¹⁄ | cup water |
¹⁄ | ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed |
10 | ounces white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced ¹⁄ |
9 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper | |
3 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
¹⁄ | cup fresh parsley leaves |
1 | small shallot, chopped coarse |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh thyme |
¹⁄ | cup grated Parmesan cheese |
1.
Microwave water and porcini in covered bowl until steaming, about 1 minute. Let stand until softened, about 5 minutes. Drain mushrooms through fine-mesh strainer lined with coffee filter, reserving liquid.
2.
Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss white mushrooms with 2 tablespoons oil, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon pepper in bowl and spread evenly over aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Roast, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 25 minutes.
3.
Meanwhile, toast garlic in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, shaking pan occasionally, until softened and spotty brown, about 8 minutes; when cool enough to handle, remove and discard skins.
4.
Process roasted mushrooms, garlic, porcini, reserved porcini soaking liquid, parsley, shallot, thyme, and remaining 7 tablespoons oil in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to small bowl, stir in Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Pesto can be refrigerated for up to 3 days in bowl with plastic wrap or thin layer of oil covering surface.)
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA
When adding pesto to cooked pasta it is important to include 3 or 4 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water for proper consistency and even distribution.
2 | red bell peppers, prepared following |
3 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
7 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup fresh parsley leaves |
1 | small shallot, chopped coarse |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh thyme |
¹⁄ | cup grated Parmesan cheese |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Adjust oven rack 2¹⁄
2
to 3¹⁄
2
inches from broiler element and heat broiler. If necessary, set upside down rimmed baking sheet on oven rack to elevate pan (see illustration 4
HERE
).
2.
Spread peppers out over aluminum foil–lined baking sheet and broil until skin is charred and puffed but flesh is still firm, 8 to 10 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through cooking.
3.
Transfer peppers to medium bowl, cover with foil, and let steam until skin peels off easily, 10 to 15 minutes. Peel and discard skin; set peppers aside. While peppers steam, toast garlic in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, shaking pan occasionally, until softened and spotty brown, about 8 minutes; when cool enough to handle, remove and discard skins.
4.
Process roasted peppers, garlic, oil, parsley, shallot, and thyme in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to small bowl, stir in Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Pesto can be refrigerated for up to 3 days in bowl with plastic wrap or thin layer of oil covering surface.)
