The Everything Guide to Living Off the Grid (14 page)

Johnny Appleseed was a real person. His name was John Chapman and he was a nurseryman who realized that there was a real need for service in supplying seeds and seedlings. In order to assure stability of the newly established homesteads, the law required each settler to plant fifty apple trees the first year. Johnny sold and gave away trees to the pioneers.

The early morning sun is particularly important since it dries the dew from the leaves, thereby reducing the incidence of diseases. Fruit planting sites should have good air circulation.

Fruit trees grow well in a wide range of soil types. They prefer soils with a texture of sandy loam to a sandy clay loam. Ideal soil pH for fruit trees is 6.5.

Cedar-apple rust is a common disease of apple and crabapple trees. The fungus that causes the disease must spend a phase of its life cycle as a parasite on
Juniperus
species, such as red cedar or ornamental junipers. Cedar-apple rust can be very severe on apple trees. Infections of apple fruit result in lower fruit quality and early fruit drop.

What Size Trees Do You Use?

The common sizes available for fruit trees are dwarf, semi-dwarf, and standard. The size you choose depends on how long you want to wait for your first harvest, how much space you have for your orchard, and how much you want your harvest to yield.

Dwarf

Dwarf fruit trees can flourish in an 8-foot-diameter plot. Because of their size, they are easy to prune and harvest. However, even given their smaller stature, the fruit is normal size. Dwarf trees are not as hardy as standard or semi-dwarf trees. Part of the reason they are not as hardy is that they have fairly shallow roots, so a hard frost can kill them. For this reason, dwarf trees should not be grown in USDA zones 3 or 4.

You should plant dwarf trees at least 8 feet apart, but no further than 20 feet apart to ensure pollination. They should also be staked because of their lack of root depth. Dwarf trees can produce one to two bushels a year in about two years, and they will live about fifteen to twenty years.

Semi-Dwarf

Semi-dwarf are medium-sized trees that require a growing area of about 15 feet in diameter. They need annual pruning to keep the height down and the shape balanced. They are sometimes called semi-vigorous. Semi-dwarf apple trees will grow about 15 to 20 feet tall. They are hardier than dwarf trees, but still not as hardy as standard trees and should not be grown in USDA zone 3. Semi-dwarf trees should be planted at least 10 to 20 feet apart. However, in order to ensure pollination, do not plant them more than 20 feet away from another variety. A good semi-dwarf tree should live about twenty to twenty-five years and produce about five bushels of apples within three to four years.

Standard

If you have an older fruit tree on your property, it probably is a standard. Standard apple trees will grow about 25 feet tall, and even taller if they are never pruned. Standards were the only choice before the smaller hybrids were developed. They are hardiest and will adapt to a variety of soils and climates. Standard trees should be planted at least 25 to 30 feet apart. However, do not plant them more than that distance from another variety in order to ensure pollination. A standard tree should live fifty years or longer and produce about eight bushels of apples a year within five to six years.

Pruning Basics

Pruning is the removal of a portion of a tree to correct or maintain the tree structure and to optimize fruit production. Pruning is most often done during the winter, when the sap is not running through the tree; this commonly is referred to as
dormant pruning
.
Lawn-and-Gardening-Tips.com
(
www.lawn-and-gardening-tips.com
) advises that there are unique pruning instructions for different types of fruit trees depending on the structure of the tree itself. Here are the basics and some general instructions about pruning, as suggested on the website:

• The Central-Leader System:
  This is used for pruning apple trees, pear trees, and sweet cherry trees. A “central leader” is the main stem or trunk of the tree, from which other, lateral branches develop. Fruit tree pruning instructions for this method are based around thinning the lateral branches.
  
• The Open-Center System:
  Used for peach tree pruning, as well as pruning plum trees, nectarine trees, apricot trees, and sour cherry trees where there is no dominant, vertical trunk or central leader. Open-center fruit tree pruning instructions are based around three or four main limbs set at wide angles with about five lesser branches on each.
  
• The Modified-Leader System:
  Used for nut-bearing trees, but can also be applied when pruning apple trees and pear trees. Modified-leader fruit tree pruning instructions are based upon giving the central leader and three or four lateral branches equal importance.
  

Here are some general fruit tree pruning instructions to give you an idea of the process:

• Always use sharp shears or saws so your cuts are clean. Use pruning shears on young trees and limbs less than ½-inch in diameter, and lopping shears for your bigger cuts. For mature fruit trees, use a pruning saw.
  
• Begin by removing dead wood and broken branches. Then cut out any wood that crosses or rubs against any other branches. This opens up the middle so the sun can get to all the fruit.
  
• Make your cut close to a bud, to a joint in the branch, or to the trunk; never leave a stub. The pruning cut should be just above a bud. Make the cut at a backwards angle of about 30 degrees.
  
• Prune stems just above a pair of opposing strong shoots or buds. If shoots or buds are staggered, choose a strong one and prune just above it.
  
• Keep more horizontal branches, and prune more vertical branches.
  
• Remove suckers (shoots) from around the base of the tree.
  
• Get rid of all debris that can harbor pests and disease.
  

Fruit Trees

As you decide which trees you’d like for your orchard, you need to take into account a number of variables.

Consider Your Planting Zone

First, which varieties do best in your planting zone? You can ask your county Extension agent, the nursery owner, or your neighbors to see which trees have produced the best fruit for them. Determine whether you have a microclimate on your property where warmer-zoned trees might thrive.

The Dirt on Your Dirt

Second, you need to match the kind of tree you want to the kind of soil you have. Some fruit trees, like plums, do well in damp soil conditions. Other fruit trees, like apples, need well-drained soil. Some varieties might be more drought resistant than others, or more frost resistant. When you meet with your local nursery, garden center, or county Extension agent, describe the area you have in mind as your orchard location and have an expert help you pick out trees that would work best in that location.

The Buzz on Pollination

Make sure, if needed, you provide pollinators for your trees. Some trees are self-pollinating, like most varieties of peaches and nectarines, but others, like apricot trees, require another tree of the same type for pollination.
Be sure that you match your tree with the correct pollinator. Just because you have two apple trees does not mean they are pollinators for each other. Check with either your Extension agent or the nursery where you purchase your trees to be sure your have the right varieties.

Tyoes of Fruit Trees

While you choose various types of fruit trees, you should also look at the kind of varieties within each group. Apples have early harvesters and late harvesters, fruit that is excellent for eating, and fruit that is better for cooking. There are some fruits that store better than others. Decide on your needs and get a variety to extend your harvest.

Look for Healthy Tree Stock

You will want to purchase trees that have a straight trunk and no low branches, with branches evenly spaced around the tree. If you’re selecting a bare-root tree, you want roots of quality and quantity. Roots should be numerous and healthy, as opposed to few and scrawny. If a tree has a cluster of branches or only one branch, those will not become good producers. You should also avoid any trees with a curved or bent trunk.

Planting Your Fruit Tree

Once you have decided about the size of the tree and soil type, it is time to plant your fruit tree. Soak the tree roots before planting. Dig a hole that is about 10 inches wider than the size of the root ball of the tree and deep enough to completely cover the roots. Be sure the graft union or graft line of the tree lies slightly above the level of the ground. The graft line can be identified as a diagonal scar on the trunk or as a lump a few inches above the soil level mark on the tree.

After digging, loosen the soil around the hole, so that the tree can easily expand its roots. Put some soil at the bottom of the hole in order to make a mound in the center. Carefully place the root ball of the tree on top of the mound. After placing the tree in the hole, fill it up with soil. Gently firm the soil around the tree and then water to settle the soil around the roots. Apply a layer of mulch or organic material like compost or leaves around the base
of the tree to help retain moisture, ensuring that you do not place the material near the graft line of the tree.

Check with your local nursery or county Extension agent to find out when fruit trees should be planted in your area.

Berry Bushes

It’s a good idea to have several varieties of berries in your garden, as well as a thriving fruit orchard. Strawberries will bear in June, raspberries in July, and blackberries and grapes in August and September. You can have fresh berries all summer long!

Strawberries have a history that goes back more than 2,200 years; they grew wild in Italy as long ago as 234 B.C. The first Europeans to land in Virginia found strawberries there when their ships arrived in 1588. Early settlers in Massachusetts enjoyed eating strawberries grown by local American Indians, who cultivated the fruit as early as 1643. After 1860, strawberries were widely grown in many parts of the country.

Strawberries

Plant your strawberries in a sunny location for the sweetest berries and the healthiest plants. If you have a spot on a south-facing slope, that would be ideal. Strawberry plants are usually planted in early spring in the north, but in the south, the fall works best. Strawberries love fertile, slightly acidic well-drained soil. If your soil is a heavy clay, you might want to consider raised beds for your berries.

Select plant varieties that do well in your area. Ask your local Extension agent or a good local strawberry grower which ones do best. There a two basic types of strawberries, June-bearing and everbearing. Plant varieties of each to extend your harvest. Strawberries are usually sold in bunches of twenty-five, and one or two bunches is enough if you are starting a bed.

Plant as early as you can and only use dormant plants. Soak roots in water as your make a furrow in the row where the strawberries will be planted. Plant in rows 4 feet apart. Trim roots so they are 4 to 5 inches long. Put some soil at the bottom of the row in order to make a mound in the center. Carefully place the trimmed roots over the mound of soil and then add soil on top of the roots. Be sure the base of the crown is just at the soil surface. Firm the soil around the plant and water well.

Mulch and fertilize your strawberries. During the first season, do not allow your plants to produce fruit; pinch off all the blossoms. This will allow the plants to put their energy into developing runners. Be sure to protect your strawberries in the winter. A 6-inch layer of straw over the plants will help insulate them from the freezing and thawing cycles.

Grapes

Green grapes are nice for straight eating, but don’t do well in many areas of the country. Purple grapes are better for preserves and juice, and seem to thrive in all zones. Grapes should be planted in an area that gets full exposure to the sun. Grapes love well-drained, fertile soil. Remember, as you plan where to plant your grapes, they will need to be supported by a trellis or even fencing.